Spacer's or New Dogbones

[Freesundae]

I'm not trying to get flamed just a newbie looking for answers....

I was looking at the spacer's that Hmarc use to make and then I saw these"Tail Lifting Kit"

Do these do about the same thing?

Thanks in advance.

Tim

 

[Ignacio]

I don't think so.

I thought HMarc's shims increased the preload on the shock making it better for bigger boys and did nothing to ride height.

The units in the website you refer to seem to change the ride height and do nothing to change the shock preload.

Apples and oranges.

 

[skyway]

The dogbones will definetely change the ride height before you sit on the bike, but not change the performance of the shock. They will however change the geometry of the bike, so you should adjust the front fork tubes to compensate.

The preload spacer should not change the ride height before you sit on the bike, but it should help with ride height to the rear when you sit on it. Hence increasing preload performance, should you require it.

I'm not trying to get flamed just a newbie looking for answers....

Don't worry about getting flamed for a legitamate question such as this. At least not from me anyway.

 

[markjenn]

Certainly not a dumb question at all. Both are going to raise the bike in the rear, but by different methods with different side effects.

The dogbones would be most applicable to someone who finds the existing spring appropriate for their weight/loads, but wants better cornering clearance and quicker handling. Basically, you are going to be changing the handling and cornering clearance, but leaving the suspension the same.

The spacer (and/or simply leaving the preload lever on 'Hard') would be more appropriate if you're carrying a heavier load and need to firm up the springing at the rear. More preload is basically a shortcut to having a spring with a higher rate. But it will also help cornering clearance and qucken the steering.

To be scientific, you should measure the sag on the bike, both unseated and seated. If you use about 10% of the available suspension travel unseated, and 30% seated, then the spring rate is generally correct and the dogbone approach would be best. If you are getting too much sag, then preload (or a new spring) is the better approach.

All this is the theory, but for me, the big problem with the FJR is cornering clearance - it is the achilles heel of the bike as I ride it. I've done the spacer and might do the dogbones too, just to try and get the footpegs off the tarmac. Or now that I've nearly 10K on the bike, it might be time to stop dicking around with band aids and do the right thing - get a new ride-height adjustable rear shock. I'm partial to Ohlins because of good experiences on other bikes, but a lot of folks here like the Wilburs.

- Mark

 

[Ignacio]

Or now that I've nearly 10K on the bike, it might be time to stop dicking around with band aids and do the right thing - get a new ride-height adjustable rear shock. I'm partial to Ohlins because of good experiences on other bikes, but a lot of folks here like the Wilburs.

The 'ya go. Spacers and replacement dogbones are band-aids and the stock shock is probably good and worn out at 15K or 20K. The Wilber had the additional options to be able to adjust ride height (mechanically) and preload (hydraulically). This or the Ohlins are the best way to go once you get over the sticker shock.

 

[Freesundae]

Okay, Now I understand, :headbonk: , I just need to save up the pennies and go with the true fix.

What's the discount from sportbikeeffects?

Thanks guys...

Tim

 

[Neville McNaughton]

I have the Wilbers Shock and springs, with the 28 mm lift dog bones. this combination is excellent. the 28 mm lift does give more clearance but will not eliminate peg dragging. I noted that one comment indicates that once you have sag set with preload adjustment that there is no difference in performance with different springs. It is possible to often get sag set to 30% of travel with a soft spring but when it is loaded up via bumps etc. it will either bind becoming solid or compress and bottom out. A the correct spring will handle the load within the range of compresion and travel avaialable via a particular bikes design.

I did not get the Wilbers with ride height adjustment, maybe I should have. My estimate of change in steering geometry is that the change is less than 1 degree increase. There is no sign of any instability and I would not go back.

Neville