Spare Wattage in a stock FJR

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waldmana

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Can anyone tell me how many watts are available for use with Farkles in a stock FJR? I have put my deposit down on an 06 and would like to start putting my list together for farkles, but I don't know how many watts I have to play with. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)

 
Well, the 03-05's have approximately 120 watts for farkles. As for the 06, nobody knows for sure. We'll all have to wait and see.

 
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Well, the 03-05's have approximately 120 watts for farkles. As for the 06, nobody knows for sure. We'll all have to wait and see.
Wow, that isn't much. I was looking at the Gerbings and the Widder heated clothes and the Gerbings would draw 242 watts for my wife and I. The Widder would draw 181 watts. What do you all do to get more wattage? Do you install a different altenator?

 
We practice watt management as we have not found a clear-cut, reasonable way to increase alternator capacity at all. A rewound alternator has been tried, but did NOT increase capacity. Chances are the 2006 will NOT have a bigger alternator or they would have published it as an improvement.

It's exacerbated since you'd like to keep a passenger warm.

Some ideas I'm confrtonted with and am planning or have done:

Buy Widder instead of Gerbing as they're more efficient.

Use a temperature controller.

Install a Datel voltmeter to monitor voltage drop.

Install V-Strom handguards to increase hand warmth and avoid electric grips.

Reduce lighting wattage by converting to HID (maybe 40 watts saved in certain figurations)

 
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Having been innundated the past few weeks with Christmas catalogs, I came across an interesting item in the Brookstone catalog.

A heated reversible vest:

https://www.brookstone.com/shop/product.asp...e=Result*R1C1*T

Pros:

Lightweight, machine washable, rechargable battery, adjustable heat.

Cons:

4 hour battery life, 5 hours to recharge

Still, may be good for chilly morning commutes. Price SEEMS reasonable, but I know nothing more about it than what I saw in the catalog and online.

Anybody try one out?

Jeff

 
We practice watt management as we have not found a clear-cut way to increase alternator capacity at all. A rewound alternator has been tried, but did NOT increase capacity. Chances are the 2006 will NOT have a bigger alternator or they would have published it as an improvement.
It's exacerbated since you'd like to keep a passenger warm.

Some ideas I'm confrtonted with and am planning or have done:

Buy Widder instead of Gerbing as they're more efficient.

Use a temperature controller.

Install a Datel voltmeter to monitor voltage drop.

Install V-Strom handguards to increase hand warmth and avoid electric grips.

Reduce lighting wattage by converting to HID (maybe 40 watts saved in certain figurations)
Thanks for the responce. I too like the Widder because of less watts used. I also want to put on FF50 auxillery driving lights, J&M comms and Tailblazer tail light. I think when it gets cold I will just have to tough it out while the wife uses the heated clothing. I guess we could take turns but I am sure she would use it the most. This is a very frustrating situation. I am sure I will get use to "managing" the watts, but for now it seems to be a pain.

 
...I also want to put on FF50 auxillery driving lights, J&M comms and Tailblazer tail light. I think when it gets cold I will just have to tough it out while the wife uses the heated clothing.
Of course the FF50 lights would be a draw because you're going to want to use those when it's dark and happens to be the coldest. It kinda comes down to being able to see or be warm sometimes ;)

As for the communications I would think the current draw is very low and maybe even intermittent.

Several other mitigation strategies include a taller and wider windshield (CeeBailey's +4 +2 for me) and the most old fashioned kind of warmth technology.....more clothes. Never underestimate the value of a polar fleece liner.

Just came to work without electrics of any kind. 20F and I kinda toughed it out for the 10 miles of commuting. My only cold parts were nose and neck.

 
https://www.brookstone.com/shop/product.asp...e=Result*R1C1*T
Price SEEMS reasonable, but I know nothing more about it than what I saw in the catalog and online.
For that price, I'd get a Widder. Thinsulate design helps hold in the heat and, many times, it's enough so that you don't even need to turn on the power.

Another thing to consider: "toughing it out" - when dealing with potential hypothermia of the person in control of the bike - isn't real wise. Turn off the aux lights and other big draw items and use the watts for heat. Deal with the less aux lighting at night be slowing down. Husbanding your charging system is possible and can be done while keeping the rider and passenger safe.

If you're looking for increased visibility in the back (tailblazer type lighting) consider the LED options like HyperLites and others. Their LED nature means they draw less current than incandescent bulbs while ADDING light to the back instead of cycling exiting lights off part time (like "wig wag" type solutions do).

 
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For that price, I'd get a Widder. Thinsulate design helps hold in the heat and, many times, it's enough so that you don't even need to turn on the power.

My riding jacket has a Thinsulate liner, and I still try to wear a fleece underneath. Since the discussion was about wattage draw, I thought the attractive thing about this vest was that you don't plug it in to the bike. Warmth, and no power draw. No wiring, no outlets, just turn it on, and off you go.

Jeff

 
If you insist on full-up heated clothing for two people (jacket, pants, gloves), you need to consider a different bike. The ST1300 and BMW R1200RT are both around 750 watts and arguably better two-up bikes to begin with.

- Mark

 
If you insist on full-up heated clothing for two people (jacket, pants, gloves), you need to consider a different bike. The ST1300 and BMW R1200RT are both around 750 watts and arguably better two-up bikes to begin with.
- Mark
I don't neccissarly need both of us full up heat. I know when I had my wife with me at night on my BMW R1150RT she complained about her legs and hands being cold. Her upper body was ok cause she was behind me and pulled in tight. For me, even with the heated grips on the BMW my thumb got real cold. So, I figure I need something for my hands while my wife mostly needs for her legs and hands. I am sure I will manage just fine with manageing the wattage. I just thought that there was a way to increase the wattage. Thank you all for your input. You all have given me something to think about. Thanks again and I hope to meet most of you at the WFO.

 
For that price, I'd get a Widder. Thinsulate design helps hold in the heat and, many times, it's enough so that you don't even need to turn on the power.

My riding jacket has a Thinsulate liner, and I still try to wear a fleece underneath. Since the discussion was about wattage draw, I thought the attractive thing about this vest was that you don't plug it in to the bike. Warmth, and no power draw. No wiring, no outlets, just turn it on, and off you go.

Jeff
Thanks for the info. That is definately a possibility.

 
If you insist on full-up heated clothing for two people (jacket, pants, gloves), you need to consider a different bike.  The ST1300 and BMW R1200RT are both around 750 watts and arguably better two-up bikes to begin with.
- Mark
I don't neccissarly need both of us full up heat. I know when I had my wife with me at night on my BMW R1150RT she complained about her legs and hands being cold. Her upper body was ok cause she was behind me and pulled in tight. For me, even with the heated grips on the BMW my thumb got real cold. So, I figure I need something for my hands while my wife mostly needs for her legs and hands. I am sure I will manage just fine with manageing the wattage. I just thought that there was a way to increase the wattage. Thank you all for your input. You all have given me something to think about. Thanks again and I hope to meet most of you at the WFO.
If I rode two-up very much in cool/cold weather with electric clothing, I wouldn't want to worry about "managing" limiited electrical resources. That's just a bother and there is some evidence that keeping the FJR's system at the limit may lead to premature failures. And keep in mind that you may not be done with farkling - heated grips, extra lights, more electronics, etc.

It can be done, but I personally wouldn't bother when the whole problem goes away with an ST1300. But good luck with whatever you go with,

- Mark

 
If you want electricity? The '06 (airbag) Gold Wing reportedly has a mondo alternator -- something like 100 amp?
1100 watts iirc.

It can be done, but I personally wouldn't bother when the whole problem goes away with an ST1300.
But the new problems you inherit are substantial.

 
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If you want electricity? The '06 (airbag) Gold Wing reportedly has a mondo alternator -- something like 100 amp?
Ok, to show how mechaniclly dumb I am, can you put such an altenator in an FJR without bad things happening?

 
You could but it would be a cobbled solution of belts and pullies to an externally-mounted automotive-style alternator. Some people did it on the 84 - 87 GL1200, but it was easier to hide (or at least ignore) on the Gold Wing that it would be on the FJR. The alternate is to get Yammy to come up with a way to pack more power into the internal stator (left side of the engine, above the oil filter). Perhaps creating a bubbled-out side casing to provide more space for additional wiring and magnets?

 
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The alternate is to get Yammy to come up with a way to pack more power into the internal stator (left side of the engine, above the oil filter). Perhaps creating a bubbled-out side casing to provide more space for additional wiring and magnets?
Funny you should mention that. I have been looking into doing something similar to that. I have contacted a couple vendors that make side covers, and have looked into purchasing ligting coils similar to the E-line 200 watt system and adding it to the casing. Still in the brainstorming phase.

Pro's:

independant electrics

typically 2 each 100 watt lines. More than enough for any farkles I can think of.

Cases can have custom logos, pawder coating, polished or even chrome.

Cons':

$$$$$ about $700 or so by the time everything is said and done. Maybe less. If it's more, I probably won't proceed.

***the case has to be 1 inch wider. Most of us still won't hit it in the twisties, but tip overs might be disastrous.

Don't know if having two systems right next to each other in the same case would effect each other deliteriously.

This is experimental. No garuntee on outcome or reliability. But MX bikes have been using lighting coils for a long time with great results.

One case maker said he'd take on the project, but he'd need to make a minumum of 25 cases to make it worth his while. He wants a case to study, measure and plot. Which is why I asked for an R&D case from someone who may have a bunged up one sitting around. Heck, they are only about $70 to buy, but thought someone might be able to help a guy out.

I'd be happy to have any input and assistance with this project. Don't know if 25 people would be interested in jumping on board, but I'm going to keep looking into it.

 
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