Spark Plugs

[Fallen Jim Rides again]

Or . .. .lets see here. Rad and jestal seem to be in accordance here and that accordance seems to agree with the directions on the box, hmmm I guess it would just be silly to take the advice of the director of transportation of a major university and a GM engineer and the manufacturer.

Been doing it that way myself for over 36 years on un-numbered sparkplugs and have never - never - had one climb out of the hole. Never.

Finger tight + 1/4 turn. Move on to the next thing

 

[yamahlr]

I vote w/ Mike H. I always use a bit of anti-seize on plugs where its steel vs aluminum. Call me a renegade or whatever.

 

[Mike-H]

"Right on" Yamahlr :yahoo: ....my younger brother from another mother

 

[Langly]

Antiseize and hand tight. Third set of plugs.

 

[Bounce]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...ic=6873&hl=plug

 

[pawtracks]

Thanks for everyones advice and opinions.

I decided not to use any anti seize after I got into the job.

(First time plug change on an FJR)

I had no idea the plug was so far down beneath the surface.

This made me change my mind and better understand what jestal was talking about.

"Getting anti-seize on something other than the threads"

When I took the old plugs out, they were just a hair over hand tight.

When I installed the new ones I tightened by hand + ~1/8 turn

Here is a photo of my plugs next to the new Iridiums

I assume they have 9900 miles on them (never changed)

For those of you who have never seen what lurks below the tank, this is what it looks like after you:

1. Lift or remove the tank

2. Remove the rubber side pieces and T-bar

Plug wires clearly visible

Finally I also synced the throttle bodies, this is what they looked like when I started (almost perfect)

I am guessing they have been synced since new

Just a little tweak of #2 (4-3-2-1) L-R

Thanks again for all the help, I will keep track of mileage over the next few tanks to see if it made a difference.