Sparkplug wire routing

[dgiles]

Hi. Earlier this week I decided to change the plugs on my 09. Numbers 1,3,and 4 came out of the plug holes with great ease. Number 2 would not release. I bought the bike used and have no history, but suspect this is the first plug change at 13,000 kms. Being as careful as possible the boot of course ripped, and finally came out after I got very aggressive since it was already badly damaged. I obtained a new one , cut 1/4 inch off the wire and screwed it onto the plug wire. I would have liked to have felt it "bottoming" out. But didn't. Just felt a bit of resistance. It started and runs great in a short 3 km test ride. Now the second thoughts have started. I'm supposed to be leaving Tuesday for a 5,000 km ride through the Canadian Rockies where cell service is very sparse. First the #2 wire. I would have liked it to been a little bit longer as there is virtually no slack in it and I'm concerned it might vibrate out of the boot. I was thinking I would smear some marine silicone around it's mating point to sort of "glue" it in place.Second I noticed that the #3 wire loops over a tube running across the top of the engine. All the rest went under the tube. Does that tube get hot, there is a protective sheath over the #3 wire.Comments or advice about the silicone and the routing of the #3 wire. I think it is OK but if someone could advise. Thanks in advance.

 

[Chuck35]

I had the same thing happen at my first plug change. I didn't trim the wire when I replaced the boot.

I did liberally apply dielectric paste around the inside of the boot and the ribs that seal against the valve cover tube. It was about 30,000 miles before I changed the (iridium) plugs again. (they looked new) The boots came off as easily as if I had put them on the day before.

The silicone won't hurt anything, but may be unneeded. I don't think the heat from the coolant tube will damage the wire.

 

[bluesdog]

Pic taken during PAIR-ectomy. #3 sparky wire has rested against that coolant tube since day one, w/o issue.

If you ever encounter a stubborn spark plug boot, a pair of bent needle-nose pliers with the jaws liberally wrapped in electrician tape will help you get a grip for controlled removal. During reinstall, the dielectric grease mentioned above will ease both installation and future removal.

 

[dgiles]

Thank you for the responses.The Grandchildren went home tonight so I was able to get in a 100 km blast out Hwy4 here on Vancouver island. Ran like a champion. Even though the old plugs only had 13000 km on them the bike is noticeably smoother. No numb right hand. BONUS. I will take the tank off tomorrow and do the silicone thing on #2 just for my own peace of mind. The plug lead to my mind is too damn short. Like I said I only cut 1/4 of an inch off it as someone recommended on a older post on this forum, and looking at the old end I thought it was prudent. Just as an aside. When phoning all the dealers here on Vancouver Island looking for a new spark plug boot I was told "back ordered" Two to six weeks from Japan. Finally spoke to " Ricky" at SG Power in Victoria. No they didn't have one but then a few seconds later told me that a dealer in Vancouver had two. He gave me there # and the name of the parts person at that location. She had it in my hands the next morning. Why the hell didn't the other dealers help me out like Ricky did? I've never even seen SG Power,but they will have all my business in the future. I have called the manager, told him about the great service I had received and thanked them once again. The trip through the Rockies which has been long on my bucket list commences Tuesday. Again thank you.

 

[Donal]

One other 'tip' when removing stubborn spark plug boots is to rotate the boot about 20-30 degrees in each direction before starting to pull on it. Once you have broken the stiction it will usually come out easily.