Stator install

[DocDanDC]

Anyone got the scoop on the connector for the new Stator? I would like to hear what the best way to connect it would be. I'm thinking of clipping off the Stock connector and using that. Any good Ideas out there? B)

 

[smitty141]

The conector is a real bitch to get out. I ended up cutting it about 2 inches back from the connector. I then used heat shrink and soldered three wires to the connector. Nice waterproof seal.... Smitty

 

[Warchild]

Anyone got the scoop on the connector for the new Stator? I would like to hear what the best way to connect it would be. I'm thinking of clipping off the Stock connector and using that. Any good Ideas out there? B)

The LAST thing you want to do is cut your connector from your OEM stator. Keep it intact... you may need it again at some point in the future. I am VERY glad I didn't cut mine....

I am not done testing this stator, not by a long shot, and I won't be convinced this is truly the stator to have until I put it through a winter of riding. Sure do not care for my Datel readings with this new stator, as many others have mentioned.

To answer your question: you'll want to shrink-tube the bare female connectors as they arrive from ElectroSport:

Then attach your connectors to the Regulator/Rectifier:

You should probably tidy things up a little before bolting the R/R back into place:

 

[smitty141]

Dale, is that your Regulator/Rectifier?? Did you cut the part that goes around the wiring off?? The stock conector would not be very waterproof if you ever put it back on. May I ask the reason for removing the plastic around the connector.... Smitty

 

[Feejer/Weejer man]

I tried for almost an hour to get my plug out and just couldn't. I took the top bolt out of the radiator to get more room and it just wouldn't go through the frame and all the wiring harnesses. So I cut it off 3-4 inches behind the plug. I tied a string when I pulled the wires through so I could pull the new stator wires back through easier than feeding them by hand. I guess if I ever need the stock stator back on I will feed the wires back through solder and heat shring them back. In fact I talked to someone at WFO5 who used the stock connector on the new stator. Can't remember who it was thouhg or maybe they were just gonna do it. WFO is now just a blur.

 

[Warchild]

Dale, is that your Regulator/Rectifier??

Yes, the original one from the Deer-Strike bike.

Did you cut the part that goes around the wiring off??

No, I did not.

May I ask the reason for removing the plastic around the connector.... Smitty

I didn't. What you see is what I saw when we removed the old stator in May 2005 at TechWest III in Sunnyside. It does sorta look like it was cut off, but it wasn't. I still have my OEM stator and it's original connector intact.

 

[Blueliner]

I am not done testing this stator, not by a long shot, and I won't be convinced this is truly the stator to have until I put it through a winter of riding. Sure do not care for my Datel readings with this new stator, as many others have mentioned.

WC, I assume this is because of the lower readings when at operating temperature that you reported in the group buy thread? Or is there something else that I missed reading?

It is disconcerting that it appears you are thinking of going back to the stock stator or even worse that you might HAVE to.

Thanks for all your work on this.

 

[Warchild]

WC, I assume this is because of the lower readings when at operating temperature that you reported in the group buy thread? Or is there something else that I missed reading?
It is disconcerting that it appears you are thinking of going back to the stock stator or even worse that you might HAVE to.

While I do understand and appreciate what ElectroSport is trying to say with regard to why we are seeing these lower readings, they still bug me. This is not the behavior I was expecting to see. The lower readings do appear to be definitely temperature-related. When I first installed the stator last spring, I would see 14.0-14.1 readings the first couple of weeks. Then, I started to raise an eyebrow when I saw it had dropped to 13.9v... this, with no additional loads on the bike.

Since about June, I've never seen anything higher than 13.8v.

Last week, when heading to Reno in triple-digit temps, the Datel never climb higher than 13.7v - again, with NO additional electrical loads running on the bike.

All of these readings were also verified using a known-accurate Fluke... sadly, the Fluke readings were identical to the Datel readings.

Now, I'd like to believe the voltage readings will climb back up to the 13.9-14.0 range come Oct/Nov, when it's relatively cool outside. If it doesn't, I'm going to have to make a hard decision on whether to go back to stock. That's after I comb through the electrical system thoroughly to ensure there is not something else going on here...

But I will say this: if this stator drops so much as one more tenth - which would make it 13.6v - I will pull the ElectroSport stator and go back to stock. I am not about to head into a PacNorWest winter with questionable stator output. :angry2:

 

[Rogue]

WC, I assume this is because of the lower readings when at operating temperature that you reported in the group buy thread? Or is there something else that I missed reading?

It is disconcerting that it appears you are thinking of going back to the stock stator or even worse that you might HAVE to.

While I do understand and appreciate what ElectroSport is trying to say with regard to why we are seeing these lower readings, they still bug me. This is not the behavior I was expecting to see. The lower readings do appear to be definitely temperature-related. When I first installed the stator last spring, I would see 14.0-14.1 readings the first couple of weeks. Then, I started to raise an eyebrow when I saw it had dropped to 13.9v... this, with no additional loads on the bike.

Since about June, I've never seen anything higher than 13.8v.

Last week, when heading to Reno in triple-digit temps, the Datel never climb higher than 13.7v - again, with NO additional electrical loads running on the bike.

All of these readings were also verified using a known-accurate Fluke... sadly, the Fluke readings were identical to the Datel readings.

Now, I'd like to believe the voltage readings will climb back up to the 13.9-14.0 range come Oct/Nov, when it's relatively cool outside. If it doesn't, I'm going to have to make a hard decision on whether to go back to stock. That's after I comb through the electrical system thoroughly to ensure there is not something else going on here...

But I will say this: if this stator drops so much as one more tenth - which would make it 13.6v - I will pull the ElectroSport stator and go back to stock. I am not about to head into a PacNorWest winter with questionable stator output. :angry2:

I'm going to get an 06' regulator and replace both at once, the pre 06' is only rated 35a and I don't think it will hold up to the newer stator. I don't think that is your problem because they usually just completly crap out but it would defanantly be a weak link. (IMHO)

 

[Blueliner]

Those are interesting (to be read: concerning) findings to be sure. Temperature is definately a big factor in electrical component performance and if the ESG does not handle heat as well as the stocker, that would be a problem. I would do the same thing if the readings drop to 13.6. Not only would it signal that you would not be able to use all your gear, to me it would signal that the stator is getting steadily weaker and on the way to failing.

Mine is going to stay on the workbench for at least three more weeks. I'll wait until after we do a 2-up SS1000 on 8/18 before I mess with it. Then maybe I will put it in.

 

[ionbeam]

Do you know what the voltage was on the three stator wires when the stator was first installed and now? The stator should have something on the order of 60-70 VAC on EACH wire and the voltage should be equal between the wires. There is a chance that the voltage regulator hasn't been able to hold up to the extra power/heat and is slowly sinking out of sight :help: As the current load goes up, does the voltage drop you measure now remain proportional to the original voltage drops you saw?

 

[Blueliner]

Do you know what the voltage was on the three stator wires when the stator was first installed and now? The stator should have something on the order of 60-70 VAC on EACH wire and the voltage should be equal between the wires. There is a chance that the voltage regulator hasn't been able to hold up to the extra power/heat and is slowly sinking out of sight :help: As the current load goes up, does the voltage drop you measure now remain proportional to the original voltage drops you saw?

Good thought, that is a possibility as well.

 

[awryders]

Yup,,Add me to the list of skeptics. :angry2: I installed the "ESG" a few months and 8,000 or so miles ago.

Yesterday I was passing thru Chicago and yes it was HOT and yes the traffic SUCKED but I got to get to

Gerlach . Anyhow I got stopped in traffic (surprised ?)I looked down and the Datel is 13.3, I scream

WTF in my helmet !!! It's daylight(No aux lights),it's 100 degrees(No freekin heated gear).I don't know what

was wrong but after getting out of traffic and into the night the Datel went to 14.0. Today it was hot going across the plains and things seemed to be normal.

Do I trust the ESG ? :angry: Do I carry my stocker ? Damn, I thought this was the cure.

 

[MotorSWATCop]

Forgive me here...what the hell is a stator and what's it for? Is it a voltage meter? :dntknw:

 

[Rogue]

Forgive me here...what the hell is a stator and what's it for? Is it a voltage meter? :dntknw:

A stator is the motorcycle equielent of an alternator on a car.

 

[radman]

Forgive me here...what the hell is a stator and what's it for? Is it a voltage meter? :dntknw:

The stator mounted in the left crank cover-

Rotor is attached to crankshaft and fits over the stator, spinning creates current. You can see the rotor still affixed to the crank in the pic. Being a permanent magnet alt, it doesn't need brushes to create a field. However, perm mag alternators are the weak sisters of the generating world.

 

[Feejer/Weejer man]

Had anyone paid attention to the stock stator under these same conditions? Or now that you have the ESG installed are you aware of the difference in readings in the extreme heat?

 

[Bounce]

Yup,,Add me to the list of skeptics. :angry2: I installed the "ESG" a few months and 8,000 or so miles ago.Yesterday I was passing thru Chicago and yes it was HOT and yes the traffic SUCKED but I got to get to

Gerlach . Anyhow I got stopped in traffic (surprised ?)I looked down and the Datel is 13.3, I scream

WTF in my helmet !!! It's daylight(No aux lights),it's 100 degrees(No freekin heated gear).I don't know what

was wrong but after getting out of traffic and into the night the Datel went to 14.0. Today it was hot going across the plains and things seemed to be normal.

Do I trust the ESG ? :angry: Do I carry my stocker ? Damn, I thought this was the cure.

iirc, the original graphs of the ESG stator showed that it was actually below the OEM stator at near-idle speeds. As RPMs rose, it then traced a line over that of the OEM unit. That would mean what you saw was to be expected. My concern is that what WC is seeing is higher output stator that trades output for durrability.

 

[RonBB]

I was passing thru Chicago and yes it was HOT and yes the traffic SUCKED but I got to get toGerlach . Anyhow I got stopped in traffic (surprised ?)I looked down and the Datel is 13.3

Had anyone paid attention to the stock stator under these same conditions?

FWIW, I have been stuck in traffic with ambient temperatures in the high 90's with a stock stator & when the radiator cooling fan kicks in, have seen the voltage drop several tenths of a volt. The fan is a pretty good additonal load to drag down the voltage. My gut also says that the high temperatures are also dropping the efficiency of the battery as well but I haven't researched that aspect of the equation.