cctxfjr
Well-known member
forced to stop on very steep grade today, stalled nearly dropped bike trying to un track-whats the best procedure for very steep incline start?---rev motor slip clutch or rev motor drop clutch to get moving
steep incline start
- Thread starter cctxfjr
- Start date
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mdisher
formerly Renegade, get used to it.
Slippit... & Practice
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HaulinAshe
Well-known member
One method...
Lock front brake while waiting,
Lock rear brake,
Open throttle to a medium-low position, release front brake,
Slip the clutch until you feel it pull slightly,
Release the rear brake,
Slip the clutch for what extra pull is required.
Lock front brake while waiting,
Lock rear brake,
Open throttle to a medium-low position, release front brake,
Slip the clutch until you feel it pull slightly,
Release the rear brake,
Slip the clutch for what extra pull is required.
Jeff is exactly right. Make sure it is in gear while holding it with the front brake and balancing on your right foot. Switch to your left foot down and hold rear brake with right foot. Start to drag clutch/rev engine to "find the friction point." Release brake and move away. Effortlessly.
No one ever showed you how to hold the car on the hill with the parking brake while engaging clutch and working throttle so as to hold it from rolling backward whilst diddling with the clutch...???? Same idea.
No one ever showed you how to hold the car on the hill with the parking brake while engaging clutch and working throttle so as to hold it from rolling backward whilst diddling with the clutch...???? Same idea.
cctxfjr
Well-known member
all I drive is manual trans. (although wifes truck is auto) I have much experience in diesel pickups and 18 wheelers rule #1 in big rigs is you dont slip clutch you are on or off real-hard for me to slip clutch on street bike (lots of dirt bike experience) and I feel the FJR is lacking in off idle torque and I have to slip the clutch(abuse it) more than I should in incline starts. Was wondering what everybody else did.
worldbound4now
Well-known member
Jeff is correct. Wait for the friction point then gently let off of the brake while increasing throttle then letting off the clutch lever. It's not abuse of the clutch. It's use of the clutch.
I don't think you need to worry about slipping the clutch to accelerate from rest on an FJR. The clutch is pretty robust and will take a moderate amount of slipping without a problem. One nice thing about wet clutches like in the FJR is that they cool much better with in the oil bath than dry clutches.
cctxfjr
Well-known member
Thanks to all for replys -I had a concern I was abusing the clutch on grade starts and tried to keep the slippage to a minimum thus causing the stall on the very steep grade mentioned in post. I can hold any machine on any grade its the abuse factor on the bike that was bothering me (sure like the bike and dont want to shorten service life).
Wingman
Well-known member
I actually find it easier to hold brake pressure with my heel and accelerator with my toes. Takes a little practice to get it right (and size 12 boots don't hurt either).
David
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
QUOTE(cctxfjr @ May 15 2007, 05:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE(jestal @ May 14 2007, 08:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I don't think you need to worry about slipping the clutch to accelerate from rest on an FJR. The clutch is pretty robust and will take a moderate amount of slipping without a problem. One nice thing about wet clutches like in the FJR is that they cool much better with in the oil bath than dry clutches.
Thanks to all for replys -I had a concern I was abusing the clutch on grade starts and tried to keep the slippage to a minimum thus causing the stall on the very steep grade mentioned in post. I can hold any machine on any grade its the abuse factor on the bike that was bothering me (sure like the bike and dont want to shorten service life).
If you had the AE (AS here in the UK) you'd really start to worry about clutch abuse. That slips its clutch until the road speed reaches its 1800 rpm total engage speed. That's about 12.5 mph (FJR '06/7 gearing). On my horrid city commute it spends much of its time slipping. When I first got it I worried about "clutch abuse", but I guess Mamayamaha isn't too bothered, and I've decided if it gives up it's a warrenty repair 'cos all I'm doing is using it as Yamaha designed it. And, as far as I am aware, the clutch hardware is the same for the A and the AE.
Remember also we are taught to slip the clutch against the rear brake doing slow turns, many a riding school has bikes that are used like this for years.
As Jestal says, a wet clutch doesn't succumb to overheating like a car's (or truck's) dry clutch.
Your first priority is safety. My advice: practice. Try the technique out on the flat. Stationary with rear brake on, a little throttle, ease the clutch in until the revs start to drop, gradually ease off the rear brake, feel the bike start to creep forward, then you'll find it all happens naturally.
Whatever you do, once you are ready to move, don't touch the front brake, it reduces your throttle control and could be a real issue if you are setting off on a corner and have to re-apply the brake.
Of course, if you had an AE, you just gun the throttle and it just goes
QUOTE(jestal @ May 14 2007, 08:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I don't think you need to worry about slipping the clutch to accelerate from rest on an FJR. The clutch is pretty robust and will take a moderate amount of slipping without a problem. One nice thing about wet clutches like in the FJR is that they cool much better with in the oil bath than dry clutches.
Thanks to all for replys -I had a concern I was abusing the clutch on grade starts and tried to keep the slippage to a minimum thus causing the stall on the very steep grade mentioned in post. I can hold any machine on any grade its the abuse factor on the bike that was bothering me (sure like the bike and dont want to shorten service life).
If you had the AE (AS here in the UK) you'd really start to worry about clutch abuse. That slips its clutch until the road speed reaches its 1800 rpm total engage speed. That's about 12.5 mph (FJR '06/7 gearing). On my horrid city commute it spends much of its time slipping. When I first got it I worried about "clutch abuse", but I guess Mamayamaha isn't too bothered, and I've decided if it gives up it's a warrenty repair 'cos all I'm doing is using it as Yamaha designed it. And, as far as I am aware, the clutch hardware is the same for the A and the AE.
Remember also we are taught to slip the clutch against the rear brake doing slow turns, many a riding school has bikes that are used like this for years.
As Jestal says, a wet clutch doesn't succumb to overheating like a car's (or truck's) dry clutch.
Your first priority is safety. My advice: practice. Try the technique out on the flat. Stationary with rear brake on, a little throttle, ease the clutch in until the revs start to drop, gradually ease off the rear brake, feel the bike start to creep forward, then you'll find it all happens naturally.
Whatever you do, once you are ready to move, don't touch the front brake, it reduces your throttle control and could be a real issue if you are setting off on a corner and have to re-apply the brake.
Of course, if you had an AE, you just gun the throttle and it just goes
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cougar8000
Well-known member
What ever Jeff said. And take the MSF. If you did you would not be asking this question.
Thug
A shy retiring flower in a Thug's exterior
I don't use back brake just front....slightly rev and release clutch as front end starts to dive slowly release front brake and ride away it does take practice but like everything you'll find it a breeze when you get it as it will not take long it's just a confidence thing.
C&C
Well-known member
Left foot down, right foot on the rear brake, rev slightly, slowly release clutch till she wants to move forward, release right foot from brake.
git-r-dan
one of those musician types
+1 on the MSF. Practice, Practice, Practice AND CALL ME TO GO RIDE. Been waiting for you to get going on the m/c license. Figured your wife made you sell it. :lol:
Ride safe!
Ride safe!
Grumpy
Well-known member
You guys are missing the most important thing..........use 2nd, or even third gear......definately not 1st gear!
jim
jim
rogdeb
Scouser
Charlie Hoss
Well-known member
I wouldn't suggestion your second choice...you're likely to have it come over backwards on you, hill or not. :excl:
ionbeam
2 FUN
Last Sunday, having innocently followed Charlie Hoss onto Hurricane Mountain Rd. where the road was so steep you wouldn’t, yea, couldn’t stop and start again, I would heed his experienced view point. We stopped to bail out a Suzy rider that went ditch diving off of one of the wicked corners. Where we stopped it was so steep and so steeply banked that it was almost impossible to back our bikes down to a point where we could safely mount up again. It took three of us to stabilize Charlie’s bike while he drug his side stand for nearly 10 feet before things got better. Charlie knows his hill side stops & starts!
I'm in the camp that slightly releases the clutch into a locked rear brake then pulls away. In our ridiculous situation while two-up it was even worse
I held our position with the rear brake and fed in rpms while I released clutch. I released the rear brake as smoothly as I could while the clutch took up the load. An agressive take-off spared the clutch. If the road had been even a slight bit more sloped I wouldn't have been able to brace a foot to allow use of the rear brake. The next trick was to pile on enough speed to power through a Darlington Speedway banked corner while climbing a >30% grade. Stopping or even slowing was not an option. Payback was an awesome set of airborne undulations and wheel standing launches over the rises with an awesome view. Next time I'm packing a parachute :lol: Pictures and ride report to follow by weeks end.
