Steering Stem Race Installation Tool

[Canadian FJR]

Hi Folks,

I've been "tapping" races in for years but I would like to buy the proper tool. Any suggestions on what & where to buy?

Canadian FJR

 

[rbentnail]

For me the "proper" tool was a piece of copper pipe. You mean there's a real tool actually designed for this

? I've been doing industrial maintenance for 25+ yrs and have yet to see one that was more than a fancy punch-and-weight set. Forget about it. Soft material like brass or copper for a punch and a BFH work fine. Just take your time doing the deed evenly all around.

The biggest thing I found was that the races (I used the All Balls kit) would have required a lot of banging to get them to seat so I went to town with the 240 and 320 grit emery cloth to get a tight but not beat-the-crap-of-it fit.

 

[FJRay]

I believe mine is a Motion Pro. Quality tool but it was around 200.00 . You need to do a fair number of bearings to make it pay. I'll check the brand when I go to the shop. I think I got it through Tucker Rocky.

I was wrong. mine is made by Park Tool #HHP-2M

 

[Canadian FJR]

Thanks, I like the Park unit. Also saw it used in a video.

Canadian FJR

 

[redneckj]

Can't you just put the races in the freezer and heat up the steering head where the race goes and install them that way??

 

[Brodie]

It would go better if you heated up the race and froze the steering stem.

Do-able, just be quick about it.

Brodie

 

[Old Guy]

Can't you just put the races in the freezer and heat up the steering head where the race goes and install them that way??

I've never done an FJR, but I recently did them on my ZRX. I did freeze the races overnight. I had no good way to heat the steering stem, but the frozen races tapped in pretty easily. I used a piece of wood and a hammer to tap the new races in flush, then I used the old race to tap the new one on down 'til it seated. Of course, the old race was then press fit in against the new one, but it wasn't so far in that it was hard to pop back out.

 

[lonerider]

Never yet done the races on my FJR but, on the others I have done, I used a short length of 1/2" all thread rod and washers to pull the races into the steering neck. To get it that last bit past flush, I used the old race; grinding a small amount off the outside makes it easier to get out once the new race is seated. To seat the bottom race on the stem, I just heated it to around 250 degrees F and it slid right on. What took the longest was removing the bottom race from the stem. No matter how well I seat the races or torque upon reassembly, I've always had to re torque after 200 - 500 miles.

 

[Queensland Ken]

Done 3 of my FJR's and 5 others.

I find if you can leave the triple tree in the freezer as long as you can, 2-3 hours (or overnight) and the bearing in the oven for 1/2 an hour @ 220-240F, the lower bearing drops down real easy, sometimes too well.

The only part of the procedure I hate is starting to get that bottom race into the lower head stock.

I'm going to use the booker rod & socket method if there is ever a "next" time.

 

[PapaUtah]

Have always just used a heat gun on the bearing to get it on the triple tree and left the race in the freezer to assist getting them in head. I don't pound them in though. I have a length of 5/8" threaded rod with several very thick washers on each end. Start the races then I just press them in the rest of the way by tightening up the bolts. Works every time and guarantees no damage during the install.

 

[FJRay]

Have always just used a heat gun on the bearing to get it on the triple tree and left the race in the freezer to assist getting them in head. I don't pound them in though. I have a length of 5/8" threaded rod with several very thick washers on each end. Start the races then I just press them in the rest of the way by tightening up the bolts. Works every time and guarantees no damage during the install.

That's the the way I always did it but saw the fancy tool and had to have it. The Park tool comes with tapered adapters that fit the bearing races and the handle has a bearing in it so it takes less effort. I'll admit to being a bit of a tool junkie but this one is worth having if you do a lot of bearings.

 

[exskibum]

I'll admit to being a bit of a tool junkie but . . . .

Says the guy with, among other coveted tools, a Coats tire mounting machine. :rofl:

 

[FJRay]

I'll admit to being a bit of a tool junkie but . . . .

Says the guy with, among other coveted tools, a Coats tire mounting machine.

It's not a Coats. It's an Atlas TC411.

It is nice having a power machine but with tube type tires you end up using irons if the tube is stuck at all cause the power machine will shred a tube. I charge the Harley folks extra for spoke wheels and dirt bikes with rim locks get to pay even more