Stock alternator output enough?

[CAJW]

After running CA-166 in the dark on my SS1K, I can now appreciate why aux lights are desirable. I want to get in on the Soltek Fuego HID group buy, but I first need to know about how many farkles can be safely run and what mods need to be made. Currently running the following on my 05' NON ABS FJR:

Escort 8500

Garmin 2730

Heated grips (Hi/Lo switch, no rheostat)

Aerostitch Heated jacket (75W draw)

Magnum blasters (w/Randy harness)

possibly adding

Soltek Fuego HIDs (75 W) https://www.bajadesigns.com/NET/mainframe2....mp;category=163

This looks to put me over the total 120-130W that Warchild figures we have in reserve. I'm confident the grips and HIDs could be run, but I'm considering a Heat troller to control the jacket draw to assure I'm not tapping out the battery. My question is, will a heat troller allow the above combination to work or should I be looking at Halogen driving lamps from Baja Designs. I haven't yet gotten an actual wattage draw rating from them, but one set is advertised as 100W rating halogen. https://www.bajadesigns.com/NET/mainframe2....mp;category=163 I'd rather run the HID's, but haven't any experience with either and don't know the pros/cons of each type. Any ideas out there?

 

[Ignacio]

Don't sweat the Escort or Garmin...minimal draw. And the Magnum Blaster is intermittent like brake lights.....so no problem. There's enough juice to run the Solteks and the electrics. The hand grips at the same time might be a bit much and you'd want a Datel to monitor voltage drop.

Halogens are going to a bigger draw than the Solteks. 75 watts for a pair of Solteks and I bet a pair of halogens are 110 watts with 1/3 the lumen output. That's the point of HID. Huge light output for less wattage.....but at a higher cost.

I personally have run full Widders including gloves, and 4 HID lights (high and lows) with 13.1 volts on the Datel. However, I'm going to switch to the Electrosport alternator.

 

[skyway]

As long as you run a heat troller, and monitor your voltage, you'll be in good shape. Just don't come to a stop in town someplace with everything blazing.

I use a Gerbing vest and gloves and can run both without worry, though I rarely need to have them both on full blast as they are very efficient.

You should have posted this in the GB prelim thread, as it's definitely on topic and a relevant piece of the puzzle.

 

[kaitsdad]

The Escort has a voltage monitor - refer to your user manual, and just run it with the VOM showing. It's quite handy.

The Soltek Halogens are 100w EACH - (DAMHIK) so those would be 200W as compared to the HID 75W. Needless to say, you don't want the halogen lights.

You're good to go - just keep an eye on the V level, and when it drops, turn off the grips for a bit. Regarding grips - had you considered installing the Honda ST1300 grips - these have a V level monitor built in - and when the V drops below what the system considers a running stator (13.1 v or so) it turns off the grips - and they turn back on when the V climbs again)

Honda ST1300 Heated Grips - A & C Extreme Sports

This gives you another functionality - if you're rolling along with lots of farkles operating, (and you aren't downshifting to keep the revs up in traffic) you don't have to watch the V meter to know when you're low on watts - your grips will tell you. All of a sudden, your hands are cold !

 

[Toecutter]

If I were going to add these to the stock lights, which I'm not, as I have HID headlights (less draw), I'd wire 'em up so the headlights go out when the Aux lights come on. Then you'd save 110 watts and not even notice the lack of light, except for a couple of seconds the first time you light 'em off before they warm up.

I also have my HID headlights wired so that only the right one is always on, and the left is selectable, so it will be about the same draw as stock, with the Solteks and one headlight on.

 

[CAJW]

As long as you run a heat troller, and monitor your voltage, you'll be in good shape. Just don't come to a stop in town someplace with everything blazing.
You should have posted this in the GB prelim thread, as it's definitely on topic and a relevant piece of the puzzle.

Didn't want to muddy the waters with a side discussion on my question, but sure, I'll post a link there for prospective GB takers.

I use the 8500 voltmeter and with the current (pun intended) set up I'm showing around 13.4 with everything on if memory serves me correctly.

TC, I might try the one light switched set up, maybe when we get ours installed we can go bambi hunting! It sounds like I'll be ok with the heat troller and the HID's so I'm in.

 

[madmike2]

IIRC, Highlander has a switch box so that he can select a single headlamp or different combinations with his driving lights and fog lights. You might ask him for a picture or diagram.