Stripped final gear case filler bolt hole

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leclairk

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Went to change my final gear oil and when I tried to torque down the filler bolt I discovered the hole is stripped (not the bolt unfortunately). What would be the best/easiest fix? Should I remove the pumpkin and take the whole thing to a machine shop?

 
I'm no help with machine shop issues. But here comes all the advice on torque wrenches. Some hate 'em, some live by them. My advice is to not use them on drain/fill plugs, especially if they have a crush washer; you're almost guaranteed to over torque them if they do.

 
At least the pumpkin comes off easily for repair. And know that if your machine shop jacks you, pumpkins are available for cheap on the used market...

 
Well you said best/easiest... the two differ. The easiest would be to find a larger sized bolt/plug and simply tap it. Midway would be to install a helicoil. Best would be to find a replacement part (as mentioned above they are an inexpensive used part).

Personally I would see if a used part is available for a price I am willing to pay. If not, pull it and let the machine shop put in a helicoil.

 
No way I would exchange a known good final drive for an unknown quality FD. What if some guy that had 'Pants' problem wasn't honest and sold his "good" FD to you. Use a timesert or helicoil and call it good.

 
Ever here the old saying, "put a sock in it?" What about simply putting a cork in it... for now? I'd be willing to bet it would work just fine even as a permanent fix. OK, laugh all ya want. But I'd bet a good amount of money that it would indeed fix the problem. It's not like the pumpkin creates any kind of pressure or flow that a good cork (or similar shaped rubber stopper) wouldn't stop with ease.

Or perhaps that universal oil drain plug idea listed above? Google search for a piccie. You've seen them: they're made of rubber, usually have a wing nut that cha tighten to lock em into the stripped threads of an automotive drain plug. They come in various different sizes. I'll bet there's one that'll fit.

Gary

darksider #44

 
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Ever here the old saying, "put a sock in it?" What about simply putting a cork in it... for now? I'd be willing to bet it would work just fine even as a permanent fix. OK, laugh all ya want. But I'd bet a good amount of money that it would indeed fix the problem. It's not like the pumpkin creates any kind of pressure or flow that a good cork (or similar shaped rubber stopper) wouldn't stop with ease.
Or perhaps that universal oil drain plug idea listed above? Google search for a piccie. You've seen them: they're made of rubber, usually have a wing nut that cha tighten to lock em into the stripped threads of an automotive drain plug. They come in various different sizes. I'll bet there's one that'll fit.

Gary

darksider #44
Like this?: https://www.amazon.com/Expandable-Neoprene-Rubber-Steel-Hardware/dp/B0085PCYVU

 
Permatex and Loctite each offer a "chemical thread repair" that as long as there are some old threads left may work in this application. I had reason to use this stuff several years ago as an alternative to pulling a cylinder head in a pick up truck. Laugh if you want but this stuff worked and help up very well. Sets up in minutes, totally set in I believe 2 hours and finished surface is machinable.

 
Wow - look at all you guys throwing this mans money around.......

I'm ashamed of you.....
uhoh.gif


At least Gary had it right.....

Here ya go OP......

656251_28754965.jpg


 
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This thread, and the other one on wondering about bent valves, remind me of days working in the industry when customers would bring in their self fixed crap when it finally totally bit the dust and they were trying (unsuccessfully) to get it going again.

We called these bikes "Roaches." It is always surprising to me to see just how many bikes are turned into roaches, by well meaning but ill-prepared owners who were at the start trying to save money, or prove their macho, or keep a dealer from messing things up the way they were messing them up themselves.

Post 1990ish motorcycles have little in common with Briggs & Stratton lawn mowers (maybe it can be argued that HD only recently moved away from the B&S model). They are complex enough to be approached with some respect.

One nice feature of this forum is that there are a few guys who really have solid knowledge and are willing to share that knowledge. Kudos to Ionbeam, MCATrophy, and several others (in honesty, probably more to name than I would remember off hand, so if you're one of the guys who actually knows what he's doing, please don't be offended by the fact that I haven't included you specifically).

But there are also guys who show no respect and give advice on how to cobble things together ... and these guys are the 4 lane entrance to the Roach Interstate. If you follow their advice, you are on your way. The cork idea, or the "stripless dripless expandable oil plug" come to mind quickly. Often these are the same guys who incite frugal riders to go with car tires.

So ... if there were a "hate" button in addition to a "like" button, I would expect to have several "hates" on this post.

I guess my feeling is that if you want to turn your own FJR into a Roach, that's your business. But it breaks my heart to see Roach oriented advice being given as though it were sage wisdom to poor shmoes who are only trying to be part of the group, and have already started into trouble by going into projects for which they do not have skill. The old phrase "The blind leading the blind" comes to mind.

We used to keep a sign in the shop. I've told this story before, so I apologize to those who remember it. It was a long time ago, and yes the basic rate was in fact the rate we charged at the authorized Honda, Yamaha Kawasaki, Triumph, Hodaka, Bultaco dealership where I worked.

The sign went something to the effect:

Labor Rates

$6 per hour.

If you watch, $12 per hour.

If you help, $18 per hour.

If you tried to do it yourself and now we're fixing your mess, $24 per hour.

 
That universal expandable plug will probably work just fine since this is the fill plug and the final drive is vented so there is no pressure on it. That said, it is ugly and I would never use one except maybe in an emergency to get me home.

If the wine cork suggestion was serious, I would say it may work, but it also may fall out due to vibration and bumps.

And, as already said, I would not buy a used final drive unless the casting itself was actually broken. You would want to put new seals in a used final drive and that is more trouble than repairing the fill plug hole.

So, after that long winded post about what I would not do, that leave the heli-coil, time-sert, or oversized fill plug. All seem equally good fixes if done properly.

 
El Toro - the shoes fits, I'll wear it. On my own problem, when it's done (one way or the other), it won't be roached, as you describe it. Ignorance and stupidity are two decisively different things.

To the OP:

1. I got 60 miles home using a styro-foam Crappie Fishing cork for a pumpkin fill plug. Nay a drop spilled.

2. I happen to have a good 2014 pumpkin case with approximately 750 miles on it. One or more of the hard pieces inside the pumpkin is bad, but both the fill and drain plugs are most assuredly not stripped. If you (or your mechanic) wants to swap out guts, you are welcome to have this piece for the low price of FREE - just pay for the shipping.

 
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