switched power for lighting relay

[joliver]

So apologies in advance as I am sure this info is here somewhere but after a couple hours searching it looks like my searching foo is not up to snuff.

I have a 2015 ES that I am putting aux LED lights on and have everything working and mounted (Show Chrome black LED on my TRex bars) EXCEPT I am having some issues finding a switched hot for the relay.

Can some kind person point me at a wire that I can get switched power off of? Preferably close to the battery compartment as that is where I have mounted the relay and brought the other wiring too?

 

[raesewell]

Search harder 

 

[infrared]

Can some kind person point me at a wire that I can get switched power off of? Preferably close to the battery compartment as that is where I have mounted the relay and brought the other wiring too?

Joliver,

Most fuses are switched.  Use a Fuse-Tap, available from most auto parts stores.  With NO fuses installed, there should be no power on the Tap wire.  If there IS power there without fuses, the Fuse-Tap is reversed, just pull it out, turn it around, and re-install.  Fuse-Taps are made for large and small fuses; match what you have there, when buying them. Relays do not draw enough power to worry about the extra drain.  See Attached.

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[infrared]

Joliver,

There is also a cheapo version of the Fuse Tap, called a Fuse Blade Tap.  Use one when there is a space problem inside the fuse box.  As before, if the Blade Tap connector is NOT switched (powered at all times), then the Blade Tap is either on the wrong end of the fuse, or pick another fuse for the Fuse Blade Tap.  You can bend the connector tab flat over the fuse top, to save space.  It takes a standard female blade connector.

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[user 213]

Or you could use the cig port and just posi-tap into that.  Or basically any other light like running light.

If you don't have a multi-meter or at least a basic test light, go to the auto parts store or Canadian Tire and pick one up.  It should speed things up a bit.

 

[BigOgre]

I'll take it a step further.  Not knowing the OP's history of riding or bike ownership nor whether or not he might have already considered this but I'd go with a Fuzeblock or something similar before wiring up those lights or adding anything else.  If he's like most they'll be more accessories to come and will be saying, "Thanks" somewhere down the road.

 

[joliver]

OK, many thanks to @infrared for the fuse-tap. who new? worked like a charm...

And now that I have a great switched positive from the fuse-tap -- thanks also to @BigOgre for the fuzeblock idea. that is brilliant. assuming that you have one on your bike, where did you install it?

 

[infrared]

OK, many thanks to @infrared for the fuse-tap. who new? worked like a charm...

And now that I have a great switched positive from the fuse-tap -- thanks also to @BigOgre for the fuzeblock idea. that is brilliant. assuming that you have one on your bike, where did you install it?

Joliver,

There are fuse-blocks, and then there are relay-controlled fuse-blocks.  The relay switches full battery power through the fuses, using the relay switch contacts.  The Fuse Tap can power the relay on the fuse block.   Eastern Beaver has some nice units; pick one with a very common plug-in relay (not some proprietary soldered-in-place relay).  These units give full battery power to the accessories, and switch them all off when you remove the key.

Not needed for now,  of course: just something to consider, for a future project.    :coolsmiley02:    

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[Canadian FJR]

I just tapped into the brown wire feeding the power plug to the glove compartment to power the relay for my auxiliary lights?

Canadian FJR

 

[FJR Flyer]

Joliver,

There are fuse-blocks, and then there are relay-controlled fuse-blocks.  The relay switches full battery power through the fuses, using the relay switch contacts.  The Fuse Tap can power the relay on the fuse block.   Eastern Beaver has some nice units; pick one with a very common plug-in relay (not some proprietary soldered-in-place relay).  These units give full battery power to the accessories, and switch them all off when you remove the key.

Not needed for now,  of course: just something to consider, for a future project.    :coolsmiley02:    

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Second the recommendation on the Eastern Beaver block with the relay.  You can also get the specific harness for the FJR that runs from the battery and allows you to put the block under the seat. 

 

[ice_station_zebra]

for a few dollars more and I think a really clean install I went with the solid state PDM60....smallest unit out there.

 

[tnjallen]

for a few dollars more and I think a really clean install I went with the solid state PDM60....smallest unit out there.

+1 for the PDM-60. I've had the same unit for over 7 years on 3 different bikes and it has worked flawlessly. The same company has a more recent model (Amplink PDM) advertised that includes the ability to use a battery tender - that also seemed interesting.

 

[Ndv21]

OK, many thanks to @infrared for the fuse-tap. who new? worked like a charm...

And now that I have a great switched positive from the fuse-tap -- thanks also to @BigOgre for the fuzeblock idea. that is brilliant. assuming that you have one on your bike, where did you install it?

So what fuse did you tap into? This may work for a side project I'm working on for the FJR.