Symtec grip heater install

[07fjrTom]

I would like to pick the brains of some off you more knowlegeable people on this topic. I installed a set of Symtec grip heaters on my 07' yesterday. The install went well and they seem to work like they are supposed to, but they do not get very warm. The Symtec website claims that these grips will draw 3 amps / 36 watts in the high position. I have had heated grips on 2 other bikes but have never installed them myself before. On my other bikes they got a lot warmer. According to the instructions, there is only one proper way to wire these grips, while the info on this site describes the dual star grips as being flexible as to how they are configured to vary the heat output. Does anyone know if I can hook the Symtec grips up in a fashion similar to the dual star setup? They appear to be the same type of element and wiring layout, but I have to admit that I don't have a lot of knowlege to draw from on this matter. I can follow instructions and am mechanically inclined enough to do the install, but I really don't understand how the system works.

I would appreciate any feedback from you all.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

 

[BobOdenweller]

I had the exact same problem with my '07, coincidence??? Probably not. I never did figure it out and I am pretty good with electronics. I tried wiring in series and parallel, I soldered all connections, used proper guage wires, good ground, etc. I ended up switching to Hot Grips and they work great. Heat up fast and get real hot on high. I'm using the same Heat Troller that I used with the Symtecs. I suspect I probably had a defective set of Symtecs. I think the Symtec and Dual Star are exactly the same so I would go ahead and experiment with other wiring options that apply to the Dual Stars. Hopefully someone will chime in with a solution to your problem.

 

[07fjrTom]

Bob,

Thanks for the response. I am not using the heattroller as you are and as it seems most on the forum do. I felt that hi and low settings would be enough for me. That's the setup I had on my RT and it was fine. I am confused because the red wire has to go to the power source (center prong on the switch), and the blue and white wires from each side must be tied together and plugged into the rocker switch. I am unclear as to how I would alter this arrangement and have the elements still work. Anyway, it may become necessary to just switch to a different grip as you have. I find that the Symtec heaters are good enough down to around 45-50 degrees, but not much cooler than that. I will hang with what I have for now and see how much info I can gather before making any changes.

Thanks again,

Tom

 

[twinfan]

I think I figured this one out. With the standard hi/lo switch you get the choice of one set of heating elements or the other. Each set has a different resistance and therefore operates at a different heat level. With the Heat-troller, though, you can wire the hi/lo elements together, probably adding 50% to the output. Assuming the Heat-troller and your wiring method can handle the current you get way more heat but can dial it down as needed.

I went with the Symtecs and hi/lo switch but haven't done a test ride yet. I'm hopeful it will do the job.

 

[FjrVfr]

Wow, Bob - I'm surprised to hear that you had better luck with the Hot Grips than the Dual Star/Symtecs. My experience was just the opposite.

I did a brief write-up here and I think there's a link to fjr1300.info with details about the DS/Symtec wiring options (search for "Tom Barber" in that post). Do consider shelling out the extra duckets for a heat troller. It really is a nice addition.

Bob - I liked your video on the Park-N-Move. Wish I still lived in Littleton so I could have a look in person (near Broadway & Dry Creek).

Good luck,

FjrVfr

 

[07fjrTom]

Assuming then, that my wiring will handle the wattage and amperage draw, it seems that I should be able to jumper the hi and low (blue and white) wires together and have both elements working at the same time. This will deprive me of a low setting, but right now the low setting is useless and the high setting is barely adequate so short of buying the heat troller and re-wiring it altogether, this seems like a solution that I could live with.

Anyone see a problem with that?

 

[twinfan]

I don't see a problem, especially if you have taken power directly from the battery. If you went through the the blue factory connector, as I did, the power comes through the headlight relay. Not sure what it amounts to in amps but some on the forum think it may be excessive. I'll be interested in hearing the outcome if you follow through on this idea.

 

[FjrVfr]

Sounds like a plan. Only thing I'll add is that if they're wired up like mine they really do get HOT. I've only had mine dialed up all the way once when the temps were in the upper 20s. Anything above about 40F and I can't hold them on high. Of course that's a function of grips and gloves.

Best of luck.

 

[07fjrTom]

Thanks guys,

I appreciate your input. I'll let you know how it works out.

Tom

 

[bmwhd]

Thanks guys,
I appreciate your input. I'll let you know how it works out.

Tom

I recently put the symtec's on my '06 with the included hi/low switch and the relay kit from Eastern Beaver

They work great and get at least as hot as the OEM grips did on my BMW K1200LT.

 

[BobOdenweller]

In an earlier reply I wrote about my problems with the Symtecs. I've often wondered if my experience was partially due to the large and heavy Manic Salamander bar ends and the aluminum G2 throttle tube. Perhaps these were acting as a big heatsink and preventing the heat from making its way through the rubber grip. I don't know. Anyway, the Hotgrips I purchased have ribs on the inside to prevent this heat loss. Seems to work and I really like the feel of the slightly larger diameter grips. YMMV.

Bob

 

[bmwhd]

In an earlier reply I wrote about my problems with the Symtecs. I've often wondered if my experience was partially due to the large and heavy Manic Salamander bar ends and the aluminum G2 throttle tube. Perhaps these were acting as a big heatsink and preventing the heat from making its way through the rubber grip. I don't know. Anyway, the Hotgrips I purchased have ribs on the inside to prevent this heat loss. Seems to work and I really like the feel of the slightly larger diameter grips. YMMV.
Bob

I wondered about that too but my Throttlemeister bar ends stay ice cold even without any wrap on the clutch side bar.

 

[DaveFJR]

You may want to check resistance of the elements to make sure you do not have a partial short. This is especially important for those with the G2 throttle and even more so for anyone who does not follow the manufacturer's directions to install a 4 amp inline fuse.)

 

[Tim05fjr]

I have the Symtec heaters on Cheryl's Ninja 650 and my Buell 1125r. They work great. Almost too hot. Both have been wired to the supplied Hi/Lo rocker switch. Red to center poll with in line fuse powed by key on relay. Heater wires tied together on each of the other polls. Then ground wires to a GOOD ground. This is very important !!!! Poor ground will result in poor results. I would recheck everything and also measure resistance on elements. You my also contact Symtec for values if they aren't listed on the instruction sheet. They have great customer service. I e-mailed them when I had a problem w/the switch on the Ninja and they got right back to me ( the owner no less) and sent me out a replacement at no charge.

Tim

 

[twinfan]

I've had a chance to check mine (Symtec with hi/lo rocker wired through factory blue connector) in 50F dry weather. Hi is more than necessary and Lo is fine at this temperature. The left handlebar is a big heat sink but eventually comes up to temp and the two sides are relatively even. There is a good frame ground point very near the factory blue connector.

Overall, this was a really easy upgrade.

 

[07fjrTom]

I just finished trying to tie both hi and low prongs together with a jumper wire, thinking this would combine both elements together and give me more heat, but it made no difference. I am supplying power directly from the batt via an inline fuse, have good ground and am using the hi lo rocker switch supplied with the kit. The grips work fine, but just don't get as hot as I would like. I checked the voltage coming out of the switch on both the hi and low settings. On the low setting I get 12.8v from the hi prong and 6.6v from the low prong, on the hi setting I get 12.8v from both prongs. I was hoping that if the elements were hi and low working independently, I would tie them together and get more heat. I was wroing......... not the first dumb idea I've had. It's clear that I just lack the understanding of how they work to manipulate them to work other than how they are intended to be wired.

I guess I may have to spring for the heat troller or just call what I have good enough. Thanks to those that tried to help.

Tom

 

[BobOdenweller]

Tom,

You're following my exact progression that I went through when trying to solve this problem. No kidding, it is almost uncanny. The Heattroller, although probably a good investment, is not going to solve it. It didn't for me. It won't supply any more voltage than the switch. In hindsight, I'm sure that somehow my problem was with the resistence. Resistence = heat. I never bothered getting out the ohm meter to check it, I just went to the Hot Grips instead. I suspect my Symtecs were defective since I double checked for any shorts in my wiring, If I were you I would pursue replacement Symtecs or go with the Hot Grips instead. My Hot Grips are not hard rubber like someone else said. The have a nice feel that is a little larger than stock, but nothing as fat as those Sunline Grand Touring grips. Now those are fat. They also have little ribs to keep the heat from transfering to the bars.

Bob

 

[07fjrTom]

Bob,

Thanks for your insights. I thought about the heat troller too and decided that there was only going to be as much voltage ultimately delivered to the grips as is now being delivered. I can't complain that they don't work, because they don't seem defective, but just don't get as hot as I thought they would. I rode today almost 300 miles in temps ranging from 40 to around 60 degrees and they helped, but below 45 degrees I still needed to wear my winter gloves. I have messed with them enough for now... on to other farkles for the time being. I am working on a project to modify my frame sliders to act as a mounting point for some accessory running lights. Woo Hoo!

Take care and ride safe!

Tom

 

[crankshaft]

Tom,
You're following my exact progression that I went through when trying to solve this problem. No kidding, it is almost uncanny. The Heattroller, although probably a good investment, is not going to solve it. It didn't for me. It won't supply any more voltage than the switch. In hindsight, I'm sure that somehow my problem was with the resistence. Resistence = heat. I never bothered getting out the ohm meter to check it, I just went to the Hot Grips instead. I suspect my Symtecs were defective since I double checked for any shorts in my wiring, If I were you I would pursue replacement Symtecs or go with the Hot Grips instead. My Hot Grips are not hard rubber like someone else said. The have a nice feel that is a little larger than stock, but nothing as fat as those Sunline Grand Touring grips. Now those are fat. They also have little ribs to keep the heat from transfering to the bars.

Bob

Which model of Hot Grips do you have? Do you have he G2 throttle tamer as well?