Synthetic oil use

[misalot]

I have a 2007 AE and because I am going to put on more than 600 miles before I can have the first service I want to change the oil. I was told by the service dept. where I bought the bike that because of the wet clutch I should not use full synthetic oil. His reason was that synthetic could cause clutch slippage. I wanted to use Mobil 1 or the Mobil 1 V TWIN oil. The V TWIN says it is designed for air-cooled engines, transmissions and wet clutch primaries. (I know I am not air cooled, I use that oil in my HD and Burgman). I know there are a lot of you out there that know more than I do. Maybe I should just use oil recomended in the Yamah manual.

Thanks

 

[Rickster]

First -- Oil threads are numerous and plentiful.

Search for "synthetic" you will find so much info it will boggle your mind.

As for using synthetic -- as long as it's a synthetic designed for Motorcycles -- you will not have any problems with your clutch.

Make sure the oil meets the manufacturers spec (it's in the owners manual)

 

[SkooterG]

Morons at your dealer.

Synthetic oil does not make your clutch slip. Friction modifiers they put in SOME oils for energy saving purposes make the clutch slip. Just make sure the oil doesn't have "Energy conserving" on it and you won't have to sorry about the clutch slipping.

 

[GunMD]

I have a 2007 AE and because I am going to put on more than 600 miles before I can have the first service I want to change the oil. I was told by the service dept. where I bought the bike that because of the wet clutch I should not use full synthetic oil. His reason was that synthetic could cause clutch slippage. I wanted to use Mobil 1 or the Mobil 1 V TWIN oil. The V TWIN says it is designed for air-cooled engines, transmissions and wet clutch primaries. (I know I am not air cooled, I use that oil in my HD and Burgman). I know there are a lot of you out there that know more than I do. Maybe I should just use oil recomended in the Yamah manual.Thanks

In a nutshell:

1. That service department is full of shit.

2. TONS of us use full syn

3. I (me, just me) wouldn't put the V-twin stuff in my FJR...I use Mobil 1 MX4T (I think it's called something different now)

4. It's really all up to you...tons of opinions here

5. That service dept is full of shit

6. Do a search for oil threads by using the alternate search method.

Oh, and that service dept is full of shit.

 

[Ron]

I have a 2007 AE and because I am going to put on more than 600 miles before I can have the first service I want to change the oil. I was told by the service dept. where I bought the bike that because of the wet clutch I should not use full synthetic oil. His reason was that synthetic could cause clutch slippage. I wanted to use Mobil 1 or the Mobil 1 V TWIN oil. The V TWIN says it is designed for air-cooled engines, transmissions and wet clutch primaries. (I know I am not air cooled, I use that oil in my HD and Burgman). I know there are a lot of you out there that know more than I do. Maybe I should just use oil recomended in the Yamah manual.Thanks

I have used Mobil 1 since my 600 mile change and I now have 7000 miles on my 2006. I have had no problem.

 

[misalot]

Thanks for the information. I will use the synthetic. I have read many of the oil topics posted here, but I didn't see anything about wet or dry clutches and thought that it may be specific to the AE.

 

[SkooterG]

Your AE uses the exact same clutch as any other FJR. You just have a computer and servos operating it instead of a human.

 

[GunMD]

Regarding the Mobil 1 10W-40 oil name: It is now known as "Racing 4T", no longer MX4T.

From the Mobil 1 website:

Why did you change the name of Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-4 to Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40? Is the product formulation different?
Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 was renamed because the product is known as Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 outside the US. Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 joins Mobil 1 Racing 2T, for two-cycle engines, and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50. Be assured that no changes to the Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 formulation occurred during this name change. Same great product, new name.

 

[SPORT]

Many of us Triumph owners have been using Mobil 1 20W50 oil that can be had at every Walmart.

I've been using it for several years now (6,000+miles per year) and have had NO Problems!!!

As stated, Just stay clear of Energy Savers. I use the Gold Cap in the 5 Qt containers.

As a note, I always service oil every 3,000 miles. Motorcycle engines tend to run hotter and have a tendency to break down the oil a bit quicker. Oil filter is replaced every other service.

 

[GunMD]

And speaking of oil filters, they're cheap at FJRGoodies.

Don't forget the crush washers (same ones for oil drain plug and rear pumpkin lube).

 

[one day]

Motorcycle engines . . . have a tendency to break down the oil a bit quicker.

I've read somewhere that when it comes to oil, motorcycle engines are a very harsh environment compared to regular automotive applications.

WHY? In a regular engine, the oil mainly has to protect against compression forces (e.g., rod, journal and main bearings), shear forces are minimal. However, in a transmission, the compression forces are minimal and the oil needs to be able to withstand the shear forces created between all the moving gears. Of course in cars and trucks, the engines and transmissions are separate and use separate oils.

In lots of motorcycle applications, there is one oil that has to do double duty and regular oil changes are important.

+1 regarding other comments about friction modifiers not synthetic oil causing clutch slippage.

 

[Bounce]

as long as you avoid the types of synth that have the SAE starburst emblem on them, you'll be find. The SAE circle without the starburst around it is fine. Generally those are lower viscosities than the FJR calls for anyway. A Mobile 1 15w50 is fine because it meets the viscosity recommendations of the mfgr and because it's doesn't have the friction modifiers that earn an SAE circle-with-starburst emblem.

Been running full synth in 4 bikes and with well over 300,000 miles on them (all wet clutches) without a problem.

IMO the 600 mile service is a little early to be switching to synth. I'd wait until at least the first or 2nd full service (3000 or 6000 miles).

 

[JerseyEd]

as long as you avoid the types of synth that have the SAE starburst emblem on them, you'll be find. The SAE circle without the starburst around it is fine. Generally those are lower viscosities than the FJR calls for anyway. A Mobile 1 15w50 is fine because it meets the viscosity recommendations of the mfgr and because it's doesn't have the friction modifiers that earn an SAE circle-with-starburst emblem.
Been running full synth in 4 bikes and with well over 300,000 miles on them (all wet clutches) without a problem.

IMO the 600 mile service is a little early to be switching to synth. I'd wait until at least the first or 2nd full service (3000 or 6000 miles).

After all the posts,I,m asking a question on oil. I have a case of new supersyn mobil 1 15/50 on the desk.Saw it in costco yesterday. I also have a case of syn. rotella sitting on my bike. Question is should I switch for the summer 50 wieght. This shouldn,t affect pressure in the case should it? I run pretty hard and like the idea of the heavier 50. I will be running in some hot areas this summer.Sorry for asking.

 

[bvail]

as long as you avoid the types of synth that have the SAE starburst emblem on them, you'll be find. The SAE circle without the starburst around it is fine. Generally those are lower viscosities than the FJR calls for anyway. A Mobile 1 15w50 is fine because it meets the viscosity recommendations of the mfgr and because it's doesn't have the friction modifiers that earn an SAE circle-with-starburst emblem.
Been running full synth in 4 bikes and with well over 300,000 miles on them (all wet clutches) without a problem.

IMO the 600 mile service is a little early to be switching to synth. I'd wait until at least the first or 2nd full service (3000 or 6000 miles).

After all the posts,I,m asking a question on oil. I have a case of new supersyn mobil 1 15/50 on the desk.Saw it in costco yesterday. I also have a case of syn. rotella sitting on my bike. Question is should I switch for the summer 50 wieght. This shouldn,t affect pressure in the case should it? I run pretty hard and like the idea of the heavier 50. I will be running in some hot areas this summer.Sorry for asking.

I've been using Rotella T in both my bikes with no ill effects. Both still running. No slippage or tickage I think I will start using it in my cars also.

Another popular NERPT subject is that of filters. I was using one of those Scott 'Performance' permanent filters. Although quite pretty, a PIA, since one needs to dismantle and clean with every oil change. Also only two dimensional filterage vs. paper filters. 30 micron is a pretty big hole. So I did my filter homework via the Cal Scientific white paper on filters. According to the author, his best recommendations in order (IIRC) were:

#1 PureOne (Purolater carried by Advance Auto Parts) There are two Pure filters with the same s/n. He recommended

the PureOne as being superior.

#2-4 were Bosch, Mobil 1 and suprisingly ST (SuperTech - carried by WallyMart for under three bucks)

Here is a thread that I based my oil and filter decisions on: MOTORCYCLE OIL AND FILTERS Most of us have been to this site, but some may not have. A vast cornacopia of information. Scroll up and down on the left side for the topic of your choice.