Taking starter out

[harpo]

Ok I know this has been explained before but I would like to pull the starter out of my 03 to see if it needs to be rebuilt. I am having the some trouble as some here lately with it acting like the battery is to week to turn the engine when it is cold of hot, so what is involved in pulling the starter? Also is there anything to be careful of when taking the injectors of throttle body’s out. Thanks

 

[RadioHowie]

Ok I know this has been explained before but I would like to pull the starter out of my 03 to see if it needs to be rebuilt. I am having the some trouble as some here lately with it acting like the battery is to week to turn the engine when it is cold of hot, so what is involved in pulling the starter? Also is there anything to be careful of when taking the injectors of throttle body’s out. Thanks

You don't need to pull the injectors. Pull the throttle bodies and fuel rail off in one piece. Don't even need to unplug the wires. Just loosen the boot clamps, force off the throttle body assembly in one piece and lay it up on the motor out of the way.

 

[wfooshee]

Seat off, tank off, tool tray out, left side trim off, air cleaner out, air box out, throttle bodies off.

The air box has a drain tube that you'll have to retrieve after you lift it out, in addition to the big tube up top that goes to the PAIR system.

Removing the throttle bodies involves a couple of small coolant hoses underneath it on the left side which are part of the cold start fast idle, despite what RH says.

Lots of hardware and electrical connections to keep track of.

It will take a very long time first time through, but the second or third time will be down to an hour or so. :huh:

But I suggest you load test it before you go to all that trouble. If it draws 75 or 80 amps while cranking, then it's likely not the starter. Mine pegged my 160-amp test meter, so I knew I had to do it.

 

[SkooterG]

Not easy. Not hard.

I did a non-detailed documentation when I did mine: Clicky.

The SM says to drain coolant and disconnect the high idle circuit (coolant driven). I didn't have to do that. Left all that connected and moved the TBs over to the side.

 

[Goody]

But I suggest you load test it before you go to all that trouble. If it draws 75 or 80 amps while cranking, then it's likely not the starter. Mine pegged my 160-amp test meter, so I knew I had to do it.

So help this fat idget out. What is the process for testing the draw. Mines starts great cold, barely turns when hot. Let it cool for 10 minutes and everything is jake again. Got a starter coming, gonna send it in for rebuilding. But for peace of mind I would like to know the condition of this one before swapping.

 

[wfooshee]

You need an ammeter capable of measuring 150-200 amps. The tester I used was actually an alternator output tester, but amps is amps.

Take the positive cable off the battery and put the tester between the terminal and the cable. The tester becomes part of the circuit.

Crank the bike and read the amps.

In these modern times there are inductive ammeters that simply clamp onto the battery cable and measure the current through magic and the force, no disconnect/reconnect of cables necessary. You could use one of those, too.

I am told that the starter should draw no more than 75 or 80 amps while cranking the engine. Like I said, mine pegged my 160-amp tester, so I knew I had an issue.

You can test the starter on the bench as well, just bolt it down (its torque will send it flying if unrestrained,) apply power and let it spin a couple of seconds. Should be less than 30 or 35 amps spinning free like that. Mine was nearly 90, confirming that I had a problem.

 

[RadioHowie]

You need an ammeter capable of measuring 150-200 amps. The tester I used was actually an alternator output tester, but amps is amps.

Take the positive cable off the battery and put the tester between the terminal and the cable. The tester becomes part of the circuit.

Crank the bike and read the amps.

In these modern times there are inductive ammeters that simply clamp onto the battery cable and measure the current through magic and the force, no disconnect/reconnect of cables necessary. You could use one of those, too.

I am told that the starter should draw no more than 75 or 80 amps while cranking the engine. Like I said, mine pegged my 160-amp tester, so I knew I had an issue.

You can test the starter on the bench as well, just bolt it down (its torque will send it flying if unrestrained,) apply power and let it spin a couple of seconds. Should be less than 30 or 35 amps spinning free like that. Mine was nearly 90, confirming that I had a problem.

Hey Walt!!!

Break anything today???

 

[wfooshee]

Not yet, but it's only just after lunch...

 

[Goody]

Thanks. Nephew works maintenence, including AC, heating and electrical. I'm sure he has some test equipment that will work.

 

[harpo]

Many thanks for the response, I have a friend that is an I&E maintenance man at work and I am going to get him to check the amp draw on the bike.

 

[harpo]

Well as of right now I am working and not able to start working on the starter problem. I have found that it is pulling over 100+ amps while starting. I have had trouble getting a good amp draw test because I have kept the bike on the charger and she is starting with very little draw, but I have had a few starts that drew 100 + amps.

 

[odot]

Were you starting in gear on an uphill grade?