Tapping Into A Hot Wire

[Espia4ci]

I want install a relay switch to power my aux. power block. I know some have wired this switch into the windshield auto-retract and some have wired into the running lights.

What do you experts suggest is the best place. Secondly, if I want to wire the switch wire into running lights, which wire is it, and what is the preferred method (by electical standards) to tap into that wire. Do I just remove some insulation and solder directly to wire and then wrap with electrical tape, or do it some other way?

If you got pics that would be gr8 too.

 

[Woodstock]

The coolest idea that I've heard is to take the spare horn power after you install the magnum horns. You'll only need one of the stock horn power wires to power the new horn relay, so there's a spare set on the other side. Just connect that to your new switched power relay.

I didn't do that, however (I put my switched power block on before the horns), so I tapped the running light wire. I actually cut it and used one of the posi-lock connectors rather than a "tap". Others have used the headlamp power since that dosen't turn on until after the engine is running, depends on what you want - I wanted my aux stuff to have power when the key is turned to on, rather than when the engine is running, but if you have a lot of high-draw stuff, maybe it makes some sense to not put a drain on the battery while it's trying to start the engine.

 

[Groo]

I was all set to do what Woodstock mentioned, using the spare wires for my old horns on the right side of the fairing... but couldn't come up with a good place to mount the relay, and figured it would be easier to get to something mounted under the dash panels on the side of the road, than to take off the side fairing. So I went with the window autoretract line, and mounted it to one of the bolts near the rear view mirror mounts under the dash.

 

[Woodstock]

If you're looking for spare "space" inside the fairing, there's quite a bit of room behind the top/forward section of the left lower fairing (sort of where the black chin piece is). I was actually even thinking of trying to mount my V1 there (inside the fairing).

 

[Espia4ci]

How do I get to the headlight wire, and assuming I don't have to take everything off to get to the headlight, which hot wire if the headlight wire?

Also, which hot wire runs to the running lights?

How much do that magnum horns run? Worth it?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Woodstock]

Once you take off the A/B/C/D panels, you'll see a lot of wire bundles that you can more-or-less follow to where they go. The running light one is pretty easy to find (follow from the fairing, back toward the wiring harnesses).

If you don't already have one, make up a 12V test light or have a meter where you can check for 12V.

As far as the magnum horns, go, yes, IMO, they're worth it. Motorcycle horns are notorously wimpy, and if you need them, you want to make sure you get the attention of the cager-*****-with-cell-phone who is drifting into your lane.

 

[dobias]

espia4ci,

Go to www.hornsplusauto.com, about $15 for the pair of genuine Magnum Blasters. There's additional negligible cost for the relay & fuse, unless you choose to buy a prewired harness.

dobias

 

[Woodstock]

Buy the prewired harness! FJRandy can hook you up.

 

[PopCycl]

I used to cut the wire and use a posi-lok also. Then I found out they make these - Posi-Tap . I use the grey (20 ga) ones but the red (18 ga) ones are good also. Use lineman pliers to "smash" the wires a little first and they work like a champ.

They have a small needle in the center that taps into the wire. I have had the wire slide to the side so I always check for power before connecting the tail wire. That is also why I smash the wire slightly. Once connected they are solid.

 

[BrunDog]

I gotta tell ya, for me, I think the best way is as you mentioned earlier. Carefully remove a small section of insulation, wet it with solder, wet the wire to be tied in with solder, then solder the two together. Wrap with electrical tape of choice (I use liquid tape first followed by rubber tape).

I think this gives you the best of all worlds: An electrically sound connection (low impedance) which is nearly impossible to corrode, a vibration and heat-proof connection, a solution which doesn't compromise the original wire integrity, a method which doesn't require the original wire to be significantly removed from its harness, and a removal and completely reversible option (other than the insulation, of course).

-BD

 

[FJReady]

It takes a little time but I think its worth doing it. Tap into the wire that feeds your headlight circuit. That way there is no draw from your relay until the bike is started.

Good instruction here. This is what I used to wire my terminal strip. It takes some hunting under the dasah panel, but the wire is there. If you carefully scrape off the insulation you can solder a wire onto it.

Clicky: https://www.fjr1300.info/mods/relay.html

FJReady

 

[todd34]

I just tapped into the auto-retract jumper on the windshied last night and it worked great. I wanted mine to come on when I had the key on.

Todd

 

[RonBB]

Side note here: A trick I use when I have to test an existing wire for voltage and to make sure I have the correct one is to push a straight pin into it then connect the meter to that. That only makes a very small puncture hole in the insulation. That has saved me repairing wires that turned out not to be the correct one. Note this is just for locating the correct wire not a permanent connection. It is then fairly simple to place one wrap of electrician's tape around the wire & over the very small puncture hole. BrunDog's liquid tape is also a good idea. Good luck. PS don't use this method for voltages over 12 V.

 

[FJRandy]

Buy the prewired harness!  FJRandy can hook you up.

Yes I can.

Thanks for the shameless plug, Woodstock!

 

[Woodstock]

Buy the prewired harness!  FJRandy can hook you up.

Yes I can.

Thanks for the shameless plug, Woodstock!

No problem, glad to do it.

 

[yamaha1300rider]

PopCycl

I haven't used the Positap yet, although I have some.

Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems they are most useful for perpendicular connections rather than parallel?

Paul

01 FJR

UK

 

[BlueWing]

Buy the prewired harness! FJRandy can hook you up.

x1. This is a great item, especially for an electrical klutz like me! :clap:

 

[Bounce]

I'd tap into the auto-park since that jumper won't be used if you disable the function. "tapping" into the harness can be done, but there's always the risk of creating a failure point when you do (corrosion/vibration). Why bother unless there's no other choice?

Disabling auto retract

and from: https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

 

[PopCycl]

Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems they are most useful for perpendicular connections rather than parallel?

Not sure what you mean by parallel vs perpendicular. Once the tap is installed, yes, it look perpendicular. The wire being tapped into is not cut or exposed in any way. I kinda like that. Sure enough, soldering is the absolute best. The Posi-Tap is just the next best thing to it IMHO.

One place I was able to get switched power from is the "power block" underneath the left side of the dash panel. There are several screws across the strip that you can slip the wire under. I would not recommend high draw stuff like horns but the audiovox control pad hooks up right nice.