TBS Gen 11 Bikes

[Taff]

Hi peeps,

When I bought "Cherry" I decided to purchase pre-paid servicing (got a killer deal) up to the 12,000 mile interval.

Today I reached 12,539 miles, so off we go to get the service completed at my dealer.

The head tech mentioned that he had just completed another course at Yamaha with regard to the FJR 1300.

So to cut to the chase, I enquired about the TBS etc; he replied that this issue was raised during the tech course he had just completed at Yamaha, last week.

Now it seems that Yamaha is changing the way the TB sync is carried out, by NOT USING number 3 cylinder as the "master" to set up the rest of the TB's.

I was told that if you are carrying out the TBS sync, then set all other cylinders to the one with the highest reading.

Whether or not this applies to Gen 1 bikes I really don't know!

Conversely, I cannot say for sure if this information is correct or will be made available for folks outside of the Yamaha dealer netwok.

Please don't shoot the messenger!! :yahoo:

 

[wfooshee]

Sounds like they've had too many calls about the screws bottoming out. . . .

 

[HaulinAshe]

Being the total conformist that I am...

I've always ignored the #3 thing and evaluated where the adjusters are at first. Then I decide how to best match them all without reaching the adjustment limit on any of the four intakes. Just seemed like common sense to me.

 

[Taff]

Being the total conformist that I am...

I've always ignored the #3 thing and evaluated where the adjusters are at first. Then I decide how to best match them all without reaching the adjustment limit on any of the four intakes. Just seemed like common sense to me.

Jeff,

Thats what I think too!

The only other reason I can think of is also a possibility that some complaints have surfaced from customers who may have had some throttle response issues or vibrations in the pegs etc, since the introduction of the Gen 11 bikes.

 

[ELP_JC]

It's easier to adjust all other screws around ONE, but it can be ANY of them indeed. Once you dial up your bike properly, you never have to touch the 'base' screw. I left #3 as my 'base', but I messed with it until I found its optimal position.

Oh, and remember the idle screw is just a 'master' air screw, which feeds all individual 4; you want them as deep as possible (for quickest restarts) but being able to lower the idle speed where you want it. My minimum idle is 1,250 now, and I want it at 1,200, so will have to back all 4 screws 1/4 of a turn next time I go in there, then readjust the idle. Later.

Take care.

JC

 

[Taff]

It's easier to adjust all other screws around ONE, but it can be ANY of them indeed. Once you dial up your bike properly, you never have to touch the 'base' screw. I left #3 as my 'base', but I messed with it until I found its optimal position. Oh, and remember the idle screw is just a 'master' air screw, which feeds all individual 4; you want them as deep as possible (for quickest restarts) but being able to lower the idle speed where you want it. My minimum idle is 1,250 now, and I want it at 1,200, so will have to back all 4 screws 1/4 of a turn next time I go in there, then readjust the idle. Later.

Take care.

JC

Thanks for the information.

Ride safe,

taff