The next big thing a Continental Divide dual sport ride

[UberKul]

The time is now two hundred eleven days until the next big thing as instigated from the Alaska ride of 2014. Don Wilke and I had bopped up to Alaska and along the way plotted to do “a big ride” every other year. This plan, to Don’s understanding, culminates with a grand trek south to the tip of South America and Ushuaia. But as that reality looms into view I can now begin to envision an even grander scheme to circle the globe on dual sports. Dreaming, or plotting as my wife would probably put it, is what keeps me motivated and happy.

Wow, 104 days to go, just swapped in new wheel and cush bearings/seals, broke the rear brake pedal and welded it back up giving me the opportunity to grease up the pivot nicely. Also washed off the balance of the Hollister mud from the last trip out with Tombo and the boys. I think I can squeeze a four day shakedown ride to the Black Rock Desert out of these tires but they will be good and done afterwards. Slap on the waiting 606/MT21 combo I have waiting, oil/filter change and park the bike until D-Day.
I did do a little fine tuning on the load out for this trip to include a small Joby flexible tripod. Leaving all the big camera stuff home this time and running a Lumix point and shoot alongside the Samsung Galaxy 6 Active phone/camera. Bought an additional insulated inflatable pillow to have one for head and one for between the knees while sleeping. It's the only way I can keep my back from hurting in the mornings. A new camp plate and a travel wallet complete the new acquisitions. Not too bad considering the thousands spent preparing for Alaska.

So Don calls this evening sounding worn out to tell me he forgot how much work it is getting ready for a big trip. I'm thinking, why is he worrying about this now, as he reminds me the following Saturday is our shake down ride. Oops, I better get my ass in gear. All my ride stuff is neatly stored in big bins under piles of boxes neatly stacked in the back room for our house remodel. A little rearranging and hauling gets me to pay dirt so I can start my layout. Print my ever-evolving packing list and I'm off to the races checking things off in the garage. 98 days and counting.

Somehow forgot to mention we picked up another rider for this event. Robert Brock (FJRob) from the FJRForum whom I’m ridden with since buying our sparkly new 2005 Yamaha FJR 1300’s and galavanting around with our wives around the western United States and Canada. The invite actually came from Don as they cross paths frequently, both being owners of auto repair shops who use a regional NAPA distributer who treats them well.

Did a Shakedown ride to the Black Rock Desert. You can read about that and see the photos here.

18 days and counting. About a week ago Don texts me he had to let a guy go at work and won’t be able to make the trip! I’ve heard when you die your life flashes before your eyes. This was the opposite, my future flashed before my eyes and all the variables that had to be tweaked to still make this ride happen. Nothing sounds good so about three seconds after reading the text his phone is ringing. He answers “I was joking”.... evil bastard!

I’ve convinced the guys this is going to be a baby-faced start, clean shaven and no razors along the way. See what happens when you have too much idle time before a ride.

 

[UberKul]

The plan was for me to overnight at Don’s house in Mt Aukum after trucking the bike up. Picking up Rob in Colfax on the way to Montana since he was just getting off a houseboat the prior day from a weeks vacation with friends. Romero, Don’s Brother-in-Law would be our shuttle driver for the trip north and Don’s brother Tom the shuttle driver home from Arizona.

Colfax California Starbucks, where all great adventure rides start right?

Look at those babies! Romero in the back seat didn’t get the clean shaved memo.

We stopped in Nampa, Idaho for the night to visit with some good friends of Don’s and get a fresh jump to the final stretch to Eureka, Montana for a start on Aug 15th, 2016.

Our lodging for the night in Montana, pretty swanky with some good eats just down the hwy.

Being beer drinkers we always try to sample the local fare.

It starts with a calm clear night, wouldn't being going to sleep to many of these along the way.

Makers Mark and Red Vines, high octane adventure rider fuel.

The first ride morning started with beautiful skies and warm temperatures .

The continental breakfast was marginal but who cares when you have 2800 miles of unknown ahead!

There’s nothing like a fresh bike, clean gear and an easy border to start a magnificent journey.

It wasn’t long before we hit our first dirt and it turned out to be a little grittier road than I expected. Nothing even close to difficult but for some reason I expected this ride to be nothing but easy forest roads and pavement. This was also about the time I realized I had loaded the route for this portion of the ride but had no maps in my Zumo for anything above Colorado. Oops. Good think Rob had the Maps and routes in his Zumo so we switched out and forward ho.

These berries reminded me we were in bear country. Didn’t worry about bears too much on this trip after the first few days but we did carry spray until just before crossing into Mexico where pepper spray is not allowed crossing the border.

After riding down the west side of Glacier National Park with the mountains in view we came to our first must-do stop of Polebridge Store and Bakery. A huckleberry bear claw and coffee set us straight after the meager breakfast at the cabins that morning. The local birds knew the drill and came close to perching on your hand to munch.

Don’s gear was new enough that wardrobe malfunctions provided a few chuckles.

For those that do not know, the Continental Divide Trail was put together by mountain bike riders then modified and adopted by dual sport riders. Fat tire bikes seem to be the weapon of choice and we usually passed at least a couple riders each day of the trip.

When Don’s music quit it was time to stop for a new charging cable. Poor Don fought his phone the whole time.

Rob never missed an opportunity to stretch his back.

I think this is the only group shot we got of the three of us and it was on day one of the ride.

Breaks on this ride always include jerky or beef sticks. I think I’m a little sick of both for a while. Especially after Don and I made dinner of about two pounds of spiced prepared meat washed down with beer in a motel one night.

Our first nights camp was primitive and the only night we hung food from bears. Rob got to try out his new hammock to our amusement but we all worked out a few kinks in our camp ritual. A big part of the ritual is drying out gear the next morning making early starts all but impossible. 9:30 -10:00 AM was the average to our amazement considering we were up with the sun for coffee.

Waiting for tents to dry and trying to pair three riders communications units.

 

[UberKul]

When planning a ride I always try to cut corners in a route to make things interesting. This corner just happened to be a dead end and cost us a few hours but the views were pretty.

It always amazes me how a great place to eat just happens to pop up when you need it. Just ask the guys who ride with me, a timely meal three times a day is my highest priority in life!

This is never a good thing even if it is well off your intended route. A reminder of how fragile all this forest is and never to take it all for granted.

If there is one constant on this ride it is cattle. Even the most remote areas of this ride usually had cows and cow sh*t to dodge. I generally gave anything with horns a wide berth.

The Empire Mine made a great shady stop from the heat and provided some photo ops.

When I’m standing in the road with my camera it means I want you to catch air or there is an obstacle that could take you out. Why these guys rarely sped up to meet my demands is beyond me.

Our first motel night looks like a moto store blew up inside but smelled like a locker room. My bed is still folded up this picture. The idea was to rotate being the folding bed guy but Rob thought otherwise and changed the rules the very next day. Cheater!

The first hard split came in the form of Lava Mountain. A short loop of rocks and roots that goes up and around a lava cap mountain in Montana. About a mile into this loop we came on a few really deep wide ruts on a fairly steep hill requiring some finesse of our double-wide bikes.

Rob found a clever line around the ruts but was on the opposite side of the trail and needed to get a run to make the crux of the section. Unfortunately the run turned into a loop and the worst luck kicked in when Robs knee found a nice big rock to rest on before the loaded bike came down on that leg. I thought I had taken the world's worst picture of the moment but the mode dial was switched to movie. So I got the world's worst video clip but at least it was recorded for Rob to cringe over years from now.




Rob was able to hobble down the hill about a quarter mile or so with his walking stick before getting his limo ride to the bottom.

Rob thought he dislocated the knee and it had popped back in. After trying to put weight on it there was no keeping the joint in and he reluctantly called it quits on continuing the ride. Now the job of getting him off the hill kicked in with bike and people shuttles so Rob could call his insurance through Delorme and find out the best course of action. Scene of the crime in the background, Lava Mountain.

We had super sketchy cell service but rob could text from the Delorme and about an hour and half later a local sheriff rolls up and collects Rob.

The waiting game.

Don and I try to make sure the local sheriff knows we still need Rob’s bike hauled and he ensures us he’ll get the tow company moving. Two hours and two beers later a pickup with trailer arrives to gather Rob’s bike and gear. Here’s to you Rob, our fallen soldier.

Don and I rode the normal route rather than continuing on the route that took out our friend. Too much time had passed and the day's ride had taken on a sour taste. The regular route turned out to be pretty fun in that not too hard and not too soft kind of way that felt good after the morning's drama.

Where we would have popped back onto the regular route. Step, rocky and closed according to the signage.

The 1911 trail tunnel, it was longer and darker that it appeared from the outside. A fender bag makes a marginal headlight almost useless.

Made a run up to the miners memorial in Butte Montana followed by another beer toast to our fallen comrade. See a theme here, if we lose you on a ride it gives us an excuse to drink more.

We moteled it that night because we had a bad day, or the weather was closing in, I can’t remember, pick an excuse, any excuse. Before turning in for the night though we had to hit a local brewery and raise a glass to Rob.

 

[Niehart]

I will make sure JimieJimie sees this.

After he did it on his pedal bike I ask, "Would you do it again"?

His answer was, "Hell yes but on a dirt bike"!

Damn it Rob ....

 

[Bugnatr]

Great stuff so far, looking forward to the whole report and your fine photography work Brad.

Too bad this had to be part of the report.

 

[Bungie]

In!

 

[Uncle Hud]

Too cool! (starts looking around for 650 adv bikes.)

 

[UberKul]

The next day started with some wildlife. Nothing makes me feel like a ride is successful like seeing lots of critters.

Another ingredient of a successful ride is good eats. Don and I have a knack for finding the good stuff, world famous sometimes. World famous is usually just another way of saying entirely too large of portions.

This is the day I started to slow down and relax. Caring less about the agenda and route and more about the sights and landmarks. Picture mode is what I call it, see the little stuff and take quality photos. It’s really a wonderful way to view the world… unless there's gnar to be ridden and that’s even better!

What you get when your buddy doesn’t run and what you get when he does.

Big Springs is an entire river flowing out of the ground. Pretty spectacular and they had a decent campground.

A cold and pulled back muscles both peeked that night though and the thought of turning right the next day and heading home actually crossed my mind. Don sported a cold the whole ride so we both stayed on a regiment of Dayquil and NyQuil for most of the trip.

Luckily the next broke to sunny skies and I got on the downhill side of the cold so the thoughts of bailing faded into the past. A wolf sighting that morning set me fully right and blew my mind. We shared a road in opposite directions after a dead stop stare down with me not knowing whether to gas it and run or get my camera and shoot. I did neither as he trotted past me and around Don as he came around the corner like neither of us mattered in his world at all.

Million Dollar Falls, I think we paid a buck each to see them and thought is was a good value.

Probably the least impressive welcome to state line sign I’ve ever seen. If you haven’t figured it out, my tripod is about six inches tall… but it has magnetic balls!

The Grand Tetons, a great big spikey mountain backdrop.

Forests are great but vistas are better.

Hat and phone are the only other things that went inside the tank bag on this trip. It was a med-heavy trip to say the least. Gum, toothpicks, earplugs, thermometer, sunscreen and lip balm round out the lid pocket.

Another still smoldering reminder of how this can all go away in an instant.

Crazy-busy place and we just barely got a seat in the bar for dinner and beers.

Wyoming is wide open, period.

Say hello to my little friend. Really, this guy was only about three inches long.

Aspen Alley... meh.

Most expensive camping of the trip and can’t even remember the name or lake.

One of the few water crossings of the trip.

It tended to suck you to the left, just ask Don. We both came away with wet left boots.

Looking down onto the Colorado River.

‘Splor’in.

Dodging the weather and laying in for a wet camp night at at Tarp City.

Turned out to be a dry night and the river just below our camp provided the perfect audio background and some decent camera fodder.

Bought these for breakfast but they made better deserts.

Wore ‘ol Don out today.

 

[Niehart]

Loved the picture of the Great Basin.

 

[UberKul]

We diverted off the track to visit my daughter in Golden Colorado. Had a great visit, meal and night's sleep in that town.

Getting back to the Divide Trail was cold and wet the next morning. I think this was the only day the weather kept us from seeing stuff due to cloud cover.

Wet and cold but there was some great scenery hiding behind the clouds.

Saw some dust on the horizon and wicked it up a bit for a passing opportunity. Turns out is was a grader working the road, about 50 MPH! Blade down and full tilt.

A moving shot of the billions of sunflowers lining much of the roads in this area.

A natural arch followed closely by an awesome trail into Del Norte with weather closing in we chose to motel it again.

You're doing it right when you pick up souvenirs.

The Monte Villa Inn is a semi-restored 1930’s hotel.

 

[SacramentoMike]

GREAT pics, Brad, and a great adventure, but a damn shame Rob's trip was cut short. We saw him a couple weeks back, limping on crutches with a brace on the knee, waiting for the swelling to go down enough to be able to handle upcoming surgery. Get well soon, pal. But the cool stuff you get to see, WAY off the beaten path. In a way, makes a road trip seem awful tame. Kind of envious, but the idea of doing it myself isn't even slightly tempting. Maybe 30 years ago? Thanks for the RR.

 

[wheatonFJR]

This is epic stuff! Man, I am way too much of a weenie to ever try something like this. I have loved each and every entry and photo.

Thank you for sharing!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Outta **LIKES** but damn, great trip! Looking forward to the rest of the adventure.

--G

 

[gapiob]

who very nice RR. Thanks for this travel!

 

[rogdeb]

Oh Yeah !!! Been awaiting this one )

"Liking" the whole RR - most excellent, 'cept for Rob's knee of course.

Wish I'd had an opportunity in the past to attempt an adventure like this, but alas .....

..... I'll continue to live vicariously ..

 

[exskibum]

Outstanding, Brad! Except for Rob's knee, that is. The vid capture of his stunt makes me wonder if you didn't put him up to looping his bike for the camera, though. We saw him on crutches at Bugnatr's a couple weekends back, so at least you and Don didn't give him your colds.

Very much enjoying the pics and narrative - makes me feel like I was along for the travel experience, if not for the occasional hardships.

 

[rushes]

Dang man.

This is like the most awsomest ride report ever.

 

[UberKul]

More cold and clouds to start the next day's riding and we meet up with some other riders when we have bumped into several times on this ride. Both from Florida but cannot remember their names. They were both freezing when we caught them today.

A little cattle drive and narrow gauge railroad just before crossing into New Mexico.

Northern New Mexico was really beautiful but we had both heard of the roads and mud that becomes impassable when wet. Even the days prior rain put us both down at least once today.

Lower Lagunitas Camp was really nice and the price was right, free!

Camping at 10487 feet slows things down a bit, especially blowing up an air mattress.

I don’t think we were the first to have horizontal bikes this day. Found this on the mud where I slide out earlier.

 

[UberKul]

Beautiful riding weather and scenery to start the next days ride.

Don suggested we run over to Taos to check out the Rio Grande canyon he remembered from a prior ride through the area. A huge notch in an otherwise flat expanse of landscape.

My mind just doesn’t work like this but good to know help is out there if needed. I can’t help but think if you've come this far how a stranger on the other end of the line could talk you down, but you never know. And how about the guy on the crisis line? You answer the phone knowing the person on the other end is suicidal and standing on the edge of a precipice, the job alone would send someone over the edge!

More New Mexico mud greets us when we get back on track. Riding in the grass is the only option in certain areas. Cannot even imagine how grueling this would be during a full-on rainy day.

A long ride day made us less than picky for a camp spot that night with weather approaching. Tarp first to stow gear, tents next, fire and finally dinner. Dinner was under the tarp, in the rain, just made it.

And the rain comes down.

Doing dishes with tarp run-off.

Yeah, "are you done" was the question?

Tonight's fire was a very very good thing, even in the drizzle.