The worst part of changing the front tire

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L2M

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...is getting the calipers back on the discs! So yesterday my stock Bridgestone tire had seen enough miles. At 6837 miles the front tire was well into the wear bar and I needed new rubber. A quick call to RMC turned up a Michelin Pilot Power with free mounting for $150. Not the most inexpensive source, but the weather is great here and I want my bike back in riding condition. After going to Schuks, Home Depot, and Joe's I finally ended up with a 19mm lug nut, a two ton jack, pair of jack stands, and ample frustration (where can I get a 19mm hex drive?). In the end, getting the front wheel off wasn't all that bad. I suppose I shouldn't have jacked on the exhaust, but the particle board I used between the jack and exhaust did the job nicely and I got the tire off with minimal effort. I was a bit concerned that the pinch bolts were nearly loose (seriously, I could have removed them with properly sized screwdriver without much effort) but by and large the task was simple. Jack stands supported the forks over night.

Today I got the new tire mounted and proceeded home in hopes of getting in an evening ride. No such luck. While the ABS sensor and axle went on without issue, the darn brake calipers were a real fight. Every time I tried to put them on the pads would close on each other, making either the upper or lower pair not fit around the disc. After dozens of tries I finally got the things on. The rest of the reassembly was a snap. So, are there any tips you guys can give me to make this whole process less frustrating next time? If the fit between the wheel and caliper wasn't so tight I assume this wouldn't be such a deal (rear tire as simple).

 
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Get yourself a wood shim and wedge the pads apart a bit more than how they come off the disc. Then, with the tip of your free hand's forefinger, hold the two pads apart and steady as you wiggle on the caliper. Easy-peazy. Just make damn sure you pump up the brakes before you take off. ;)

 
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It might be helpful to put a thin piece of cardboard, from a cereal box or whatever, between the wheel and caliper as you remove and install the caliper. The cardboard will protect the wheel finish as you wrestle with the caliper. When you don't have to worry about damaging the wheel you can focus more on getting the caliper aligned to the disc.

The back end (3/4" hex) of a standard spark plug socket substitutes nicely for a 19mm hex wrench.

19mm / 25.4mm = 0.748 inches

 
Bike on center stand, floor jack under exhaust pipes with plywood, jackstands for overnight... all sounds fine.

Hard time getting calipers back on? Huh?

Just stick something in between the pads and wedge them far apart. They'll stay there when the tool is removed due to the seal's friction. But as mentioned, do pump your brakes up before riding.

 
I use the wood shim method on my GENII ... no problem!

Also, if you are long legged:

I stack two 2x6 with an angel cut end to make a ramp for the front and read tires.

Ride bike onto 2x6 ramps.

Drop the center stand onto a two stack of 2x6.

Now I remove the ramp under which ever tire I'm changing and I don't need to fight to get past the fenders.

Works great for changing the oil also.

-Nik

 
After you unbolt the calipers, as you're pulling the calipers off the disk, just before it's all the way off, rock the caliper back and forth against the disk to spread the pads apart. They'll slip right off then slip right back on.

And, as stated before, pump the brakes after reinstall.

 
After you unbolt the calipers, as you're pulling the calipers off the disk, just before it's all the way off, rock the caliper back and forth against the disk to spread the pads apart. They'll slip right off then slip right back on.And, as stated before, pump the brakes after reinstall.
Not on a Gen II they won't, those extra set of pads refuse to stay put without some assistance.

 
I stack two 2x6 with an angel cut end to make a ramp for the front and read tires. Ride bike onto 2x6 ramps.

Drop the center stand onto a two stack of 2x6.

Now I remove the ramp under which ever tire I'm changing and I don't need to fight to get past the fenders.

Works great for changing the oil also.
easy to do and makes everything sooo much easier. I do without the front 2X but no harm in doing that....main thing is getting something under the centerstand and MUCH easier to get the bike's centerstand up on the 2X if there is similar already under the rear wheel.

 
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On my Gen II when I changed my tires I didn't have a problem getting the front calipers back on the rotors. I pried the 2 sets of pads apart a tiny bit but I found that once I had everything lined up square the calipers slipped on. I didn't have a problem keeping the pads from falling together.

 
I didn't have a problem keeping the pads from falling together.
You suck :p
Next time you're putting the front wheel back on just put a whole bunch of grease on and around the pads - that'll hold them in place. <_<
Plus...that will help keep them safe from the effects of friction. The last thing you want is for those pads to wear out too quickly from the effects of friction.

Just kidding...really... :rolleyes:

 
I didn't have a problem keeping the pads from falling together.
You suck :p
Next time you're putting the front wheel back on just put a whole bunch of grease on and around the pads - that'll hold them in place. <_<
Plus...that will help keep them safe from the effects of friction. The last thing you want is for those pads to wear out too quickly from the effects of friction.

Exactly - any mechanic will tell you that you need a layer of oil or grease between moving parts to prevent premature wear. :bleh:

 
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