Tightening the Steering bearings

[rfulcher]

Help

I suspect my steering stem is loose. My bike is an 07 with 5500 miles. So I am going to check the steering head bearing torque. I don’t have time to get a manual before my next ride. I have done the search thing want to make sure I have the procedure and torque values right.

Top clamp fork tube pinch bolts- 19 ft/lbs

Steering stem nut - 85 ft/lbs

Steering stem ring nut first torque -37 ft/lbs

Steering stem ring nut back off (one full turn or just a little?)then retorque to - 13 ft/lbs

Locknut on steering stem ring nut torque – help :huh:

Is this the correct procedure?

1-Prop up fuel tank (is this necessary?)

2-Block up front end of bike (is blocking under the engine adequate?)

3-Remove steering stem nut

4-Loosen top pinch bolts

5-Lift top fork clamp to access the steering stem nuts (is it really this simple?)

6-Remove lock washer

7-Loosen upper steering ring nut

8-Torque lower top steering ring to 37 ft/lbs

9-Loosen then retorque steering ring nut to 13 ft/lbs

10-Tighten upper steering stem ring nut (don’t know the torque on this)

11-Replace lock washer

12-Replace top fork clamp and torque pinch bolts to 19 ft/lbs

13-Torque steering stem nut to 85 ft/lbs

Sounds easy, is it really this simple?

Ross

 

[Bounce]

pictures and everything here:

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/shb/shb.html

 

[rfulcher]

Saw that site prior to my initial post, had it bookmarked in fact. It describes alot more than a stem nut torque check and some of the areas I asked about I did not see (lock nut torque for example) or were not clear to me in that post.

Thanks,

Ross

 

[Hit the Road Jack]

Bounce's post is correct.

Note that in order to perform this procedure correctly, you must have the spanner wrench (or equivalent) as shown. The spanner must be situated such that the torque wrench is perpendicular to it while the nut is being torqued. Otherwise the torque input will be wrong.

Also, note that the front wheel needs to be elevated off the ground (numerous methods posted elsewhere on the forum tonight). Most elevate the front wheel w/ a 2x4 and floor jack beneath the head pipes.

Fuel tank removal / propping up not req'd, but cover it with a protective towel or similar so that when you drop a tool on it (you will) it won't matter.

20 minutes the first time. 5 minutes thereafter.

 

[Geezer]

Help
I suspect my steering stem is loose. My bike is an 07 with 5500 miles. So I am going to check the steering head bearing torque. I don’t have time to get a manual before my next ride. I have done the search thing want to make sure I have the procedure and torque values right.

Top clamp fork tube pinch bolts- 19 ft/lbs

Steering stem nut - 85 ft/lbs

Steering stem ring nut first torque -37 ft/lbs

Steering stem ring nut back off (one full turn or just a little?)then retorque to - 13 ft/lbs

Locknut on steering stem ring nut torque – help :huh:

Is this the correct procedure?

1-Prop up fuel tank (is this necessary?)

2-Block up front end of bike (is blocking under the engine adequate?)

3-Remove steering stem nut

4-Loosen top pinch bolts

5-Lift top fork clamp to access the steering stem nuts (is it really this simple?)

6-Remove lock washer

7-Loosen upper steering ring nut

8-Torque lower top steering ring to 37 ft/lbs

9-Loosen then retorque steering ring nut to 13 ft/lbs

10-Tighten upper steering stem ring nut (don’t know the torque on this)

11-Replace lock washer

12-Replace top fork clamp and torque pinch bolts to 19 ft/lbs

13-Torque steering stem nut to 85 ft/lbs

Sounds easy, is it really this simple?

Ross

You can check the bearings for excessive play by propping up the front end and grabbing the fork tubes and muscle them around to feel for play. If you think they might need adjusting then you need to follow the above procedure.

1) Propping up the fuel tank is not necessary, It is helpful to place a rag or something on the tank and dash to protect the paint.

Block up the front end to take the weight off the front wheel. Blockins under the exhaustr pipes as far forward as possible works well.

3) and 4) Obvious

5) Yes, but here is where you are likely to scratch the tank or dash or top of the side panels if you aren't careful.

The rest are obvious.

 

[rfulcher]

Is there a torque setting for the lock nut or is "that feels about right" the torque value?

 

[Geezer]

Is there a torque setting for the lock nut or is "that feels about right" the torque value?

There is a rubber washer, more like an O-ring, between the nut that applies torque on the bearings and the lock nut. Just tighten the lock nut enough to compress the rubber but not so much that it squishes out the sides of the nut.

 

[Bounce]

Saw that site prior to my initial post, had it bookmarked in fact. It describes alot more than a stem nut torque check and some of the areas I asked about I did not see (lock nut torque for example) or were not clear to me in that post.
Thanks,

Ross

As is noted in the table, 2nd row from the bottom of the reference tech sheet: https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/shb/shb.html

Reinstall the upper ring nut - Finger tighten - #8

there is NO torque spec

 

[rfulcher]

Bounce,

I looked for that little tidbit of info for way too long without spotting it. A saying about snakes comes to mind. Thanks for pointing me to the actual location of the last little bit of info.

All response have been very helpful

Ross