HaulinAshe
Well-known member
I wanted a sturdy stand/mounting system for my tire changer. But I also wanted to be able to move it out of the way when not in use. Drilling holes in my garage floor did not suit me.
A hurricane blew through this summer and wrecked my el cheapo outdoor plastic patio table. The center of the table was broken out. Just before tossing it to the trash an idea struck me. The table, with some minor modifications, would make an excellent form for a round concrete base that would nicely suit my tire changer desires.
It required exactly four(4) 40-lb bags of Sacrete concrete mix. So the whole thing weighs in at roughly 165 lbs. It's heavy enough to be very stationary and yet light enough that you can snatch it on its side and roll it around to where you want to use or store it.
The steel reinforcement bars that also hold the mounting bolts for the tire changer base, are made from perforated steel strips found at Lowes etc. I used stainless steel bolts to prevent rust when stored outside. A simple tack weld of the steel structure assembled it to fit inside the table.
The plastic table doubles as the initial mold and also makes a nice trim so that there is no chipping of the concrete as you roll it around. I have to say that I am VERY pleased with the stand. Pics follow:
Light enough for even an old man like me to roll it around.
Perforated steel bar with bolts welded in place.
Be sure to tack the bolts and nuts so that nothing can spin inside the concrete.
Trim off the outer tapered edge of the table so that you have a perfectly flat edge to roll on.
I used a 2'x2' piece of 1/4" exterior plywood to cover the center. Not necessary if your table is intact and not hurricane fodder as mine was!
Marking the hole pattern for the tire changer base.
The 36" steel was a bit too long to fit inside the table. Worked out well because it allowed me to bend each end and they served as "legs" to elevate the steel rebar structure. This keeps the steel in the center of the wet concrete while you pour it and work it.
My advice... Make sure you have it level before beginning the pour. AND, make sure you have it suspended over something that allows the bolts to protrude (down) through the table top. My motorcycle trailer rails made a good spot. I would recommend using a ring of cement blocks or bricks or buckets, you get the picture. Just make sure that the table has plenty of support so that it does not warp when filled with 160 pounds of concrete. If you can't stand on it without it warping then it needs more support.
ALSO, make sure you have a friend handy to help you get it down the first time after it cures!
Mixing two 40-lb bags at a time worked well for me. You will probably want to use the maximum recommended water for a soft mix that you can work into all the cavities. I used my wheel barrow for a mixing.
A scrap piece of 2" PVC pipe made an awesome "trowel" for floating the mix and smoothing the surface. Just apply moderate pressure and roll it back and forth. Wipe off the excess from the edge when you are done.
A hurricane blew through this summer and wrecked my el cheapo outdoor plastic patio table. The center of the table was broken out. Just before tossing it to the trash an idea struck me. The table, with some minor modifications, would make an excellent form for a round concrete base that would nicely suit my tire changer desires.
It required exactly four(4) 40-lb bags of Sacrete concrete mix. So the whole thing weighs in at roughly 165 lbs. It's heavy enough to be very stationary and yet light enough that you can snatch it on its side and roll it around to where you want to use or store it.
The steel reinforcement bars that also hold the mounting bolts for the tire changer base, are made from perforated steel strips found at Lowes etc. I used stainless steel bolts to prevent rust when stored outside. A simple tack weld of the steel structure assembled it to fit inside the table.
The plastic table doubles as the initial mold and also makes a nice trim so that there is no chipping of the concrete as you roll it around. I have to say that I am VERY pleased with the stand. Pics follow:
Light enough for even an old man like me to roll it around.
Perforated steel bar with bolts welded in place.
Be sure to tack the bolts and nuts so that nothing can spin inside the concrete.
Trim off the outer tapered edge of the table so that you have a perfectly flat edge to roll on.
I used a 2'x2' piece of 1/4" exterior plywood to cover the center. Not necessary if your table is intact and not hurricane fodder as mine was!
Marking the hole pattern for the tire changer base.
The 36" steel was a bit too long to fit inside the table. Worked out well because it allowed me to bend each end and they served as "legs" to elevate the steel rebar structure. This keeps the steel in the center of the wet concrete while you pour it and work it.
My advice... Make sure you have it level before beginning the pour. AND, make sure you have it suspended over something that allows the bolts to protrude (down) through the table top. My motorcycle trailer rails made a good spot. I would recommend using a ring of cement blocks or bricks or buckets, you get the picture. Just make sure that the table has plenty of support so that it does not warp when filled with 160 pounds of concrete. If you can't stand on it without it warping then it needs more support.
ALSO, make sure you have a friend handy to help you get it down the first time after it cures!
Mixing two 40-lb bags at a time worked well for me. You will probably want to use the maximum recommended water for a soft mix that you can work into all the cavities. I used my wheel barrow for a mixing.
A scrap piece of 2" PVC pipe made an awesome "trowel" for floating the mix and smoothing the surface. Just apply moderate pressure and roll it back and forth. Wipe off the excess from the edge when you are done.
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