Torque Wrenches

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huchieglide

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Lots of talk here of loose bolts and the need to check for proper torque values. I have a beam style torque wrench but though of getting one of the micro torque or digital torque wrench's that are available. The beam type is not that easy to read at certain angles and thought these that click out at the prescribed setting would be easier to use and more accurate. What is good range of values to cover most of the nuts and bolts on the FJR. Sears has a 5-80 ft. lb. unit I thought would cover most needs. Any recomendations from some of you that do alot of your own servicing. Thanks, Bob

 
Sears always has sales. I bought two, the 3/8 and the 1/2. The smaller one for nominal stuff and the bigger for wheels, stem nut, higher values etc. They are very good for the money.

 
I've calibrated a lot of torque wrenches and I prefer the 'click' type torque wrenches, much easier to use & just as accurate in the real world.

 
Clicker type torque wrenches are the only way to go. You'll get exactly what you pay for. C'mon guys, you spent your hard earned money for a premium bike, spend a little more and get a quality torque wrench.

 
Clicker type torque wrenches are the only way to go. You'll get exactly what you pay for. C'mon guys, you spent your hard earned money for a premium bike, spend a little more and get a quality torque wrench.
Give me names, prices, online purchase recommendations, etc. (for the clicker--better than ticker)

 
Have the Digitork /w the digital dial from Craftsman (Sears). Really like it.

 
Don't forget to become a Craftsman Club member for additional sales during the year and discounts. This chik is a member!

 
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gotpackage, hopefully you won't mind my adding to your question - not trying to hijack your thread. For those of that have done some wrenching on the FJR, is there any advantage for one size drive over another? On my v65 most of the torque work can be done with a 1/4 drive, and I have found getting around the frame to the valvetrain almost impossible with anything larger.

BTW, keep in mind that Craftsman torque wrenches are NOT guaranteed forever, comes as a shock to many.

 
The craftsman clickers rock. You should only use them in the 10%-90% torque range. This usually means buying a lbs-in. and a lbs.-ft pair.

 
Clicker type torque wrenches are the only way to go.  You'll get exactly what you pay for.  C'mon guys, you spent your hard earned money for a premium bike, spend a little more and get a quality torque wrench.
Give me names, prices, online purchase recommendations, etc. (for the clicker--better than ticker)
Snap-on

 
Snap-on for me. I got the electronic digital version. Fairly expensive at $297.00 but very accurate and convenient to use. As with any torque wrench, they should be checked for accuracy on a routine basis.

 
Thanks for your replies. Checked Sears today and they have the microtorque wrenches on sale this week. Now I'm set and can retire the old beam type I have had for many years. :D

 
Most torque values on the FJR are between 10 - 70 ft lbs and can be done with with a 3/8" drive. The axle bolts, swingarm pivot nuts, steering stem nut, and a few other things are over 70 ft lbs and should be torqued with a 1/2" drive.

 
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I'd check the calibration on the wrench. If you can find someone with a torque analyzer, or a local metrology shop, I'd check the wrenches at 10% - 90% in 10% increments.

Sturdevant is another good name.

Besides Sears and Snap-On, I've also had good luck with the Home-Depot brand ($68 not on sale for a 3/8 drive 10-100 ft*lb.

(Husky)
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I've calibrated a lot of torque wrenches and I prefer the 'click' type torque wrenches, much easier to use & just as accurate in the real world.
How do you test the accuracy of a clicker-type TW and where do you go to have them calibrated?

 
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