Transmission and Clutch Questions

[raclow]

OK, this is going to be hard to explain but I'll try the shortage version possible.

First, When you have the bike on the center stand, in Neutral, and running, why does the rear wheel turn? Kinda like it is in gear buy not turning as fast as the engine is running.

Second, when I pull the clutch in to come to a stop, if I give it a little rev, it seems like something still wants to be engaged even though the clutch is, supposedly, not engaged. It almost seems like it might grab hold and jump with the clutch pulled in. Does any one have a clue about this? Is there some adjustments I can make to stop this? I like the way the clutch engages but just because I like it doesn't mean it is right or maybe it is?

Thanks for your help.

 

[zzkenoman]

You might try the round numbered knob on your clutch lever. Pull it in, and turn the knob to a higher number than the 3 (or is it the lower number?) and see if that helps. Otherwise you will have to find the adjustment screws along the cable that is enclosed with rubber boots, and do your adjusting there. I might be corrected here, but I think that is how you adjust your clutch cable.

 

[escapefjrtist]

With the FJR on the center stand and running, the rear wheel has little more than bearing resistance to counter act the oil viscosity in the engine / transmission. What you're seeing is the oil viscosity "driving" the rear wheel. It is definitely prevalent when the engine is started cold. Once the FJR is fully warmed up, this will go away.

At a stop you are feeling the drag of the wet clutch. Unless of course, something is really wrong with the clutch. Again, once fully warmed up the drag is very minimal.

--G

Edit - you were referring to the FJR, correct? BTW FJR has a hydraulic clutch, no cables to adjust......

 

[jestal]

Even when the clutch is disengaged there is some viscous drag from the clutch pack due to the oil between the clutch plates. Worse cold than hot due to the oil warming up and thinning out in viscosity.

The typical motorcycle clutch is a series of plates stacked inside a drum. The plates alternate between plain steel and composition faced. One set of plates is keyed or splined to the outer drum and the other set to the inner drum. A set of springs press the plates together causing "engagement" of the clutch. Pulling the clutch lever releases pressure on the stack of clutch plates (by compressing the springs) so that the clutch is disengaged but the mechanism will still try to drive by the viscous load of the oil film between all the clutch plates.

Similar to the oft repeated discussion of "why does the trans clunck so bad on the first shift into gear in the morning??" Cold oil and more viscous drag. Kill the engine, put the trans into 1, restart the engine and let the starter break the clutch loose for the first time cold to save the first gear dogs.

You might also want to bleed the hydraulic clutch mechanism on the FJR (no cable) as it might have some air in it and be a bit "soft" thus not completely disengaging the clutch when you pull the lever. Adjusting the lever for more stroke also might help a little as described.

 

[raclow]

THANK YOU FOR THE SUGGESTIONS.....I will try these and report back as to any change. Hopefully, these will help my particular problems.

Once again, thank you.

 

[TheAxeman]

You might try the round numbered knob on your clutch lever. Pull it in, and turn the knob to a higher number than the 3 (or is it the lower number?) and see if that helps.

A small point but I think you push the clutch lever away from the handlebars before turning the numbered adjusting knob.....might want to just check the manual.

 

[raclow]

I might be wrong here, but I thought the numbered wheel adjusted the distance between the handlebars and the clutch lever because of the different lengths of peoples fingers. Same with the front brake lever.

What do you think???

 

[Groo]

raclow,

True, but by moving the lever out/in, you also adjust the engagement point. I think what was being pointed towards was that maybe the clutch wasn't fully engaged/disengaged due to the base position of the lever. Moving it to a base position farther out might remove that as a potential issue.

 

[AJ_MN]

raclow,
True, but by moving the lever out/in, you also adjust the engagement point. I think what was being pointed towards was that maybe the clutch wasn't fully engaged/disengaged due to the base position of the lever. Moving it to a base position farther out might remove that as a potential issue.

I had a question on this, if your fingers are not long enough to move the lever out farther and it feels like it engages to early. Is there a way to adjust this, bike is in the shop for it's 600 mile service and have already posed this question to them, but curious about other replies.

Aim

 

[flyinlow]

If you look closely at the clutch and brake levers, the adjusting wheel changes the lever position but does not change the point that pushes on the plunger, that point stays in the same position regardless of where you adjust the lever. The adjustment of the levers is simply for people with different size hands.