UBS report for those who drag rear brake at low speed?

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otrfjr

Don't tell Mom
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Does anyone have a report on how the linked braking of the 07 affects low-speed maneuvering? Anything unexpected when dragging the rear brake to control speed in tight turns?

Just curious.

-Andrew

 
No problems with the slow speed stuff and dragging the rear brake. I usually practice the slow maneuvers after a ride and like how the FJR feels. I can pull a 360 in 18feet. I wouldn't even consider myself that good or even pushing the limits of the FJR.

 
Does anyone have a report on how the linked braking of the 07 affects low-speed maneuvering? Anything unexpected when dragging the rear brake to control speed in tight turns?
Just curious.

-Andrew
A light application of the foot pedal will only apply rear brake on the linked 06/07 bikes, so you can drag the rear brake with no noticeable front brake application.

 
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I'm a newb & clueless by default. However, I really am confused. This is from the "New Members Read This First" page:

"1. All new unified braking system with computer controlled ABS. When the front brake is applied, all 4 front LHS caliper pistons are activated, and only the "upper" two pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated. When applying the rear brake, both rear caliper pistons are activated plus the two lower pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated.

In short, the front brake will not activate the rear, but the rear will give you partial braking on the front."

And this is from the Yamaha website:

"Standard equipment Unified Braking System w/ABS: The front brake lever activates six of the eight front braking pistons and two rear pistons; the rear brake pedal activates two rear pistons and the other two front pistons—for balanced anti-lock braking in all conditions."

:unsure:

No problems with the slow speed stuff and dragging the rear brake. I usually practice the slow maneuvers after a ride and like how the FJR feels. I can pull a 360 in 18feet. I wouldn't even consider myself that good or even pushing the limits of the FJR.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm a newb & clueless by default. However, I really am confused. This is from the "New Members Read This First" page:

"1. All new unified braking system with computer controlled ABS. When the front brake is applied, all 4 front LHS caliper pistons are activated, and only the "upper" two pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated. When applying the rear brake, both rear caliper pistons are activated plus the two lower pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated.

In short, the front brake will not activate the rear, but the rear will give you partial braking on the front."

That is correct, but there is a proportioning valve in the linked system that will only apply the rear two pistons if only light pressure is applied to the pedal. I don't have my service manual in front of me, but thats basicly what I recall?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm a newb & clueless by default. However, I really am confused. This is from the "New Members Read This First" page:

"1. All new unified braking system with computer controlled ABS. When the front brake is applied, all 4 front LHS caliper pistons are activated, and only the "upper" two pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated. When applying the rear brake, both rear caliper pistons are activated plus the two lower pistons on the front RHS caliper are activated.

In short, the front brake will not activate the rear, but the rear will give you partial braking on the front."

And this is from the Yamaha website:

"Standard equipment Unified Braking System w/ABS: The front brake lever activates six of the eight front braking pistons and two rear pistons; the rear brake pedal activates two rear pistons and the other two front pistons—for balanced anti-lock braking in all conditions."

_________________________________________________________________________________

The first (#1 statement) can not be right if the website is right. I believe the website is correct as that is how I understood it from the owners manual.

If yoou are "dragging the rear brake enough to make a difference then you are too hard on that brake. Just make the turn W/O any brakes -- all it takes is a little practice.
 
That is correct, but there is a proportioning valve in the linked system that will only apply the rear two pistons if only light pressure is applied to the pedal. I don't have my service manual in front of me, but thats basicly what I recall?
This is one thing I love about the 06/07 linked braking system. It allows you to trail brake the rear without linking the front.

 
I can confirm from first-hand experience with the 07, that light trail braking does not apply fronts to any noticeable degree. I tested that theory by trail braking across a wet pavement stripe in a medium corner. There was no noticeable slip of the front.

 
That is correct, but there is a proportioning valve in the linked system that will only apply the rear two pistons if only light pressure is applied to the pedal. I don't have my service manual in front of me, but thats basicly what I recall?
This is one thing I love about the 06/07 linked braking system. It allows you to trail brake the rear without linking the front.

Trail Brake the rear ??? Please define, i'm probably doing it w/o knowing but have not heard the term trail brake.

 
On my '06, the rear brake pedal applies the two pads on the front, the front gives no braking to the rear (I've just gone into my garage and checked). Unless the US variant is different (which I doubt) I expect all '06 and '07 models are the same.

As for low speed dragging of the rear brake, I find with the electric clutch variant you need to drag the brake sometimes when doing slow turns, particularly when you are in the no-engage/engage speed range.

My impression is that the front braking seems to add stability rather than give a problem.

In my work car park, I usually do a U-turn to pick my parking spot, and although it's not very tight, it is part cobble stones and part loose surface, both of which can be very slippery (the loose in the dry, the cobbles in the wet). I've never had any slip on these yet, so there is no excessive front braking. The FJR is certainly easier than my old Trophy, whether that's anything to do with the linked brakes I don't know, it might just be that the Trophy was more top-heavy.

Whatever, I have never felt I didn't want the linked brakes, and I certainly like the feel when descending one steep and winding hill; it's in a 30 mph zone, and engine braking even in second won't really hold the speed down, so I usually leave it in fourth and just use the pedal. Seems to work very well. (For anyone in the UK Midlands, it's on the B5036 from Wirksworth into Cromford.)

 
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Trail Brake the rear ??? Please define, i'm probably doing it w/o knowing but have not heard the term trail brake.
Trail braking is applying a light pressure to the rear brakes before entering and through the apex of a turn. It helps maintain the suspension ride height by better holding the compression height, reduces front wheel "push", and IF properly used... provides for moderate speed adjustment within the turn itself.

:)

 
Trail Brake the rear ??? Please define, i'm probably doing it w/o knowing but have not heard the term trail brake.
Trail braking is applying a light pressure to the rear brakes before entering and through the apex of a turn. It helps maintain the suspension ride height by better holding the compression height, reduces front wheel "push", and IF properly used... provides for moderate speed adjustment within the turn itself.

:)

Gotch'ya, can't say that I use much of the brakes when I do a slow turn.

 
Good secret- "Ride like a pro4" Great training on the slow speed maneuvering. Watch motor officers- they are always best at slow speed. This video was done by a motor officer.

 
Trail Brake the rear ??? Please define, i'm probably doing it w/o knowing but have not heard the term trail brake.
Trail braking is applying a light pressure to the rear brakes before entering and through the apex of a turn. It helps maintain the suspension ride height by better holding the compression height, reduces front wheel "push", and IF properly used... provides for moderate speed adjustment within the turn itself.

:)
"maintain the suspension ride height by better holding the compression height, reduces front wheel "push" "

This is sometimes referred to as "settling the chassis".

 
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I can confirm from first-hand experience with the 07, that light trail braking does not apply fronts to any noticeable degree. I tested that theory by trail braking across a wet pavement stripe in a medium corner. There was no noticeable slip of the front.

Dang dude! You the man- that could have been a pretty expensive test, no? And here I thought those things in your avatar were just big cherries! Thanks for being willing to take one for the team.

And thanks to all of you- the linked brakes were not something I was looking forward to after spending years learning all kinds of ways to get the most out of having separate control of front/rear. I feel better now- still not ready to give up my clutch, though!

Is the ABS equally harmless?

 
Is the ABS equally harmless?
Nope! It scares the crap out of ya' the first time it fires off!

Really is a good idea to go somewhere and "test it out" a tiny bit.

When the front ABS activates you can consider that a signal that you are expecting more braking action than can be delivered. Sort of a warning signal to get off your mental *** and try something different before you run out of real estate, because what you are currently doing ain't working!

First time that happened to me, luckily, I pulled my head out of my arse, turned the old noggin in the direction I should have been looking all along, relaxed the fronts a bit, STEERED and finished the turn before running myself and Grumpy off the side of a mountain! Can you spell ABS Warning Of Brain Fart!

 
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Trail Brake the rear ??? Please define, i'm probably doing it w/o knowing but have not heard the term trail brake.
For slow speeds the rear brake can help keep the bike under better control, but is not needed for most situations.

High speed Trail Braking:

As far as high speed corners, use mainly the front brake. As you start to turn the bike the suspension compresses while the cornering Gs increase. The effect of using the rear brake to hunch the bike down is already done by the cornering forces. Using the rear brake in the corner will also make it easier to wash out the rear. If your bike feels unstable in the corner you can carefully apply pressure to the rear brake. Keep increasing pressure until the bike settles down, then maintain that pressure (or slightly less) until you pass the apex, and begin your acceleration. Then gently release the rear brake as the bike begins to straighten for the exit point. If you apply too much rear brake and cause the rear to begin sliding, then releasing the rear brake too quickly can cause the rear suspension to unload weight, and grab traction. This sudden "grab" will act just like someone tied a rope to your rear wheel and pulled. The bike will want to stand-up and unload the front suspension too. That's when you can become airborne. You feel like someone just kicked you in the a$$, and sent you flying over the bars (Did it on a dirt bike a few years back, and it really didn't feel good, but I laughed my butt off when I knew I didn't break any bones).

Emergency braking is the first thing I practice when I get on an unfamiliar bike. It doesn't matter how fast you can accelerate, if you can't stop safely enough to do it again!

Words of wisdom: PRACTICE! You can NEVER get enough!”

 
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