Valve Adjustment

[RossKean]

First of all, yes I did the search and yes I have a service manual.

I found https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html on-line and it does a very good job of clairifying some of what is in the service manual. Some decent photographs as well. The link refers to a Gen I - are there significant differences in the Gen II process; other than Tupperware?

Would anyone make any recommendations to make the process easier? An estimate of the amount of time to do the check (with and without shim replacements)? Assume I am not a total newbie but haven't been very far into this bike other than routine stuff (plugs, oil, air filter, coolant, bleeding hydraulics, tires etc.) What special tools are recommended to make the job easier - I have torque wrenches, allen wrenches, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" metric sockets and both long and stubby metric wrenches - along with the general run of "stuff" that accumulates over time. (I do need to get some new feeler gauges)

I bought my '07 this spring with 12,600 miles on the clock and have added another 19,000 miles since then. The valve check plus fork service and steering head service will be done when the weather in the Northeast turns nasty. (Anything else in terms of major stuff I should put on the schedule for the winter months?) The previous owner did not do any of these things although the forks were serviced when he installed aftermarket springs a year or so back.

I also read some recent articles on CCT replacement and cautions given regarding timing are noted and appreciated. On an '07 with 30,000 miles, riding 25,000 miles per year, should I change the CCT as a preventative measure in the absence of any obvious symptoms or wait until the next major maintenance cycle at ~60,000 miles a year from now. (Service cycle is determined more by season than absolute distance - not right but it is realistic)

Thanks

Ross

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Ok, I'll start others can fill-in, negate, comment, etc.

• Inspect cams & followers and cam-drive system and familiarize yourself with position of cam lobes (and heel of cam) at TDC for different cylinders and timing marks.
• Metric feeler guages -- think 'metric' all the way through (you can convert to English and back to metric -- but, why?).
• Top (TDC) 1 & 4 are all you need -- roll the crankshaft over once -- #1 (or #4) I. & E., #2 E., and #3 I. (if #4 I. & E.?, then # 2 I. & #3 E.)
• Write down all your measurements.
• Feel free to use the "Go - No Go" philosophy -- if the 'minimum' feeler goes and the 'maximum' feeler doesn't, the clearance is "in spec".
• If valve clearance adjustment is needed, write down the size/s of the shim/s to be replaced (both size of present shim and size of shim needed).
• Shims are usually size marked -- but, it's good to measure with a dial caliper or micrometer.
• When all adjustments are made, re-check all clearances.

 

[HaulinAshe]

Do this BEFORE you go deeper than simply raising the fuel tank...

Follow the directions on the can and Sea Foam the engine by connecting four lengths of vacuum hose to the TBS nipples on the throttle body and shoving them into the can of Sea Foam. That will cut the carbon deposits and make valve adjustment MUCH more predictable and worthwhile, plus it's good for the engine!



If you don't have a helper to operate the throttle, you can use the throttle lock (that most of us all have installed). In any case, be sure to have your phone handy to answer the neighbors calling who want to know if you set your house on fire. When you re-fire the engine it will make a cloud of smoke two blocks wide.

 

[saread]

The one neat trick I learned when checking the valves was to disconnect the throttle cables at the bars to get a little slack so that you can slide the valve cover off and on easily without them being in a way. Note the routing for when you reinstall the breather hoses. A couple of dabs of blue silicone helps hold the gasket in place if it's being a *****. Vacuum out around the coolant tubes where they plug into the heads before you take off the valve cover. Lots of grunge there that can go places you don't want it to when the valve cover is off. Use new o-rings on the tubes, be careful to lubricate them and not roll them over when reinstalling the tubes.

 

[RossKean]

Do this BEFORE you go deeper than simply raising the fuel tank...
Follow the directions on the can and Sea Foam the engine by connecting four lengths of vacuum hose to the TBS nipples on the throttle body and shoving them into the can of Sea Foam. That will cut the carbon deposits and make valve adjustment MUCH more predictable and worthwhile, plus it's good for the engine!



If you don't have a helper to operate the throttle, you can use the throttle lock (that most of us all have installed). In any case, be sure to have your phone handy to answer the neighbors calling who want to know if you set your house on fire. When you re-fire the engine it will make a cloud of smoke two blocks wide.

I have used Seafoam in other (carbed) bikes but not in the FJR. I have never tried the mega-Seafoam treatment you are suggesting. Will "normal" Seafoam dosage accomplish the same thing over a few tanks of fuel?