Valve Check and 30k Check-up Suggestions?

[Iron_Raptre]

Hello again Forums! After nabbing a new battery for my '03, I have been told it's time for a valve adjustment... I went with the DIY over a $X00 mechanic option, but it's going to be quite a project for me. I bought it at 19k and have driven it to just over 30k, so I passed the usual adjustment milestone but I've got some time off and there's no time like the present.
This thread is multi-faceted. While I'm digging around in here, depending how long it takes and what kind of parts need ordering I hope to refresh anything I can and will probably have questions. If you care to answer any or all with your opinion and suggestions I'd be very grateful!
To start:
1) Removing the Pick Up Coil cover to find TDS: How is it done? Bolts are all off, but that thing is on there good. Will I need a new gasket if I take that off?

2) Is there another way to find/mark TDS and Skip the coil cover step?
3) Are there more gaskets I should consider replacing/be on the look out for while I'm in here? I haven't seen many, but I may have missed them.

That's it for the moment. I've got a few weeks break but I'd love to have this done and actually ride! Hoping I won't need to order anything, but I realize this is a big project and want it done as right as I can.

Thanks all!

 

[El Toro Joe]

Here's a great place to start...

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/3945-new-owners-read-this/

and here...

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/4295-03-05-bin-o-facts-generation-i/

 

[Iron_Raptre]

Thanks El Toro, I poked around for something like that! Edited out the "best of" question...

 

[RossKean]

Did you find this?

https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html

Edit: And change your cam chain tensioner while you're at it!

 

[Iron_Raptre]

RossKean, Thanks! That's a pretty useful guide!

Any idea how I grab a new cam chain tensioner? I figure getting one used is the same as keeping my own... which has yet to Tick.

 

[RossKean]

Just buy a new one from the dealer or on-line parts guys. The original part design was prone to failure and they redesigned it around 2009 or so. Get the new one; usually with a blue or green dot on it. Not terribly expensive and could save a lot of heartache.

Nothing to do with a "tick" but could cause skipped teeth on the cam chain and grenade the engine.

 

[Iron_Raptre]

So that's the 1MC-12210-00-00, replacing the 5JW-12210-00? Just triple checking before I order something nearly $100 that is "different" from OEM.
Oof. Nobody likes a grenade in the engine. I heard early Gen (I and II?) can randomly come down with the Tick, often related to the tensioner.

Hopefully getting the camshafts off today and to start fiddlin with shims.

 

[RossKean]

Cams only have to come off if the valve clearances are out of spec.

The infamous tick that affected some Gen I FJRs has nothing to do with the cam chain or tensioner - that makes a different noise if the CCT is not keeping the slack out of the chain. (Can of marbles on the right side of the engine)

The tick has to do with valve stem guides/seals.

Edit: Have a look at Yamafitter's valve clearance spreadsheet in the following post:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/136915-an-excel-valve-clearance-spreadsheet/?hl=%2B%2Bvalve+%2B%2Bcheck+%2B%2Bspreadsheet

 

[jmgrif]

Don't remove cams (BEFORE CHECKING CLEARANCES)! Many here on the forum have not needed to adjust after more than a couple of mileage milestones. The cam chain tensioner replacement does require a gasket but the overall cost I think is not too great? There are pictures here on the forum about how to do that as well!

 

[Iron_Raptre]

Yes I checked the clearances, nearly all show in spec, but most are around .01-.02 of the tight end of their range. I figure while I'm in this deep I might as well loosen them all up for the next 30k. #takingmysweettime

Oo, shiny spreadsheet!

Got the tensioner orderdered, guess I should look for a gasket then. Missed out on combining shipping on my order though.

Are there gasket replacements needed for anything else I should be buying as I'm prying? Thermostat, Cam timing cover?

 

[RossKean]

On my very first valve check (at 50,000 miles), two intake valves were right on the minimum clearance. Same with the next check at 80,000 or so. Didn't bother to change any - they are still OK. At the next check, four intakes were just below spec and three others were right at the minimum so I adjusted all of the intake valves to just the wide side of mid-way. Exhaust valves were all OK each time. Quite a few folks find intake valves quite close to the minimum on he first check but these DO NOT change quickly. As long as they aren't below the minimum, I wouldn't do a thing.

 

[Iron_Raptre]

Fair enough. If it's as slow as you say, they've pretty much all got their breathing room then. Got two exhausts under and one spot on, but the rest are .02+ over and the intakes are pretty balanced. So only a few new shims to root around for and wait for that tensioner/gasket and new plugs. Guess I'll go grab some new oil and rad fluid. #allthelovin

I saw today that Throttle Bodies should get synced every 5k miles... does that sound accurate? If so I haven't done that since I picked it up, so I'm overdue. Seems like a lot of work thrown on to nearly every oil change, but for now I've got most of it off... None of the throttle body links on those "new owner" threads seem to be working. Is that just me?

 

[RossKean]

If any are below, I would definitely change them plus any others that are close. In my situation, I had a few that were right at the minimum so I did nothing until I had a couple that were below. I then changed anything that was remotely close.

As far as the TBS is concerned, its worth doing, especially if it hasn't been done before. If you have the tools (manometer etc.) it doesn't take very much time. I question the need to do it every 5000 miles. Its been a pretty long time since I did mine but we are talking closer to 50,000 rather than 5,000. (I think I remember reading that the Gen I tend to drift out of adjustment faster than the Gen II or III) If you get the block off plates, it cleans up the top of the engine so TBS is easier.

 

[Iron_Raptre]

I see. Well because I do have several to change, I'll probably change any closer than .03.

My dad's pretty resourceful concerning maintenance and his variety of DIY tools, I guess I'll have to see.

 

[hppants]

U need a pair of cooling pipe o-rings. Be sure to clean up the rusty corrosion at the cooling pipe connection.

U can also pickup a thermostat o-ring but if u r careful, u won't need it. If u are changing shims, u need the timing cover gasket. But do not remove the cam shafts. Just loosen the tensioner ( which you need to do to replace it anyway) and tie wrap the cam chain to the camshaft gears. You can just move the camshaft to the side to replace your shins and this way you are guaranteed not to mis-time the engine

 

[RaYzerman19]

Another tip before you start moving cams is to turn the engine (clockwise) to #1 TDC and verify the timing marks on the camshaft gears to the top of the head (right outboard end, gunsight along there using a flashlight). When you're all done shimming and changing the CCT, verify the cam timing marks again.

 

[qkslver]

FYI; YMMV; FWIW; NWS:

I checked my valves the first time at 94K. Installed the cover, no adjustment needed.

Rechecked at 156K. Had to adjust three Ex. and one In. Only had to buy one shim by checking each shim

and rearranging shims, (long process). Replaced tensioner at this time.

May check them this winter, currently at 201,560 mil;es.

 

[hppants]

If you have multiple valves out of spec, I would venture to say you are in the "less than 5 percentile", and maybe even less than that. Very surprising to read this. Are you using "go or no-go" feeler gages? There is no doubt, the exhaust valves will tighten with mileage, and if they get too tight, bad things are going to happen.

FWIW - on my gen I, I checked mine for the 2nd time at 56-ishK - negligible change from the first check at 28K. I buttoned it back up and left it alone.

 

[Iron_Raptre]

As I wait for the various shims and gaskets I ordered to come in (no thanks to one company taking a 5 day weekend), looking at the new tensioner I am wondering just how I'm supposed to get that out/in? Any advice for that change?