Valve check

[want2ride]

Yesterday I tore into my FJR for its first clearance check by me. It has 54K on the clock. I got it last year with 33k on the clock. After opening it up I could see the previous owner had the valves checked since the bolts had the marks of being removed. That made me feel better knowing it had been taken care of. I also changed the CCT, which did not have a green dot. It was making chain noise.

The valves all came into specs. .008 to 0.010 on the exhaust valves with one exhaust valve on 4 being at .010. The intakes ran .007 on 1 and 2 with 3 and 4 being .0065. Called it that as the .006 ran easily under but the .007 was tight getting it in. No shims were changed since they are within the stated specs.

The CCT change was a pain in behind! Had to run to the store twice to get wrenches for it. First trip had to go to 2 stores to find the 8mm ratchet head wrench. When I got back home and tried it on the bottom bolt it was too fat to fit on the head of the bolt. Ran back to get a 12 point wrench which I cut down to size to the bolt out. Success! Next up I used the dremel to cut slots in the bolts to make it easier, per the threads I read. Discovered my screwdrivers would not fit into the slots due to the size of the handles, doh! Got it back in though, the slow way....

Buttoning everything back up I had trouble getting the coolant pipe back in properly. I could get the pipe in the head but getting the thermostat assembly back on in the front was a bear. Finally I grabbed a C clamp and used it to help guide it back together. It worked perfectly. Nice little step which may help someone else out.

I still have to refill the coolant, change the oil and filter, change the gear oil, sync the throttle bodies and put all the plastic back on. Will finish it up tomorrow as I have the day off. The plugs looked great when I changed them out.

Thank you for all the prior posts on how to get the job done. It saved me a lot of time and headaches. Getting the O rings at home depot was a fabulous tip also! I appreciate all the knowledge and brains on this forum!

 

[Fred W]

You didn't mention it, did you somehow restrain the cam chain while you were changing out the CCT? If not, you may want to check your timing before thumbing that starter button.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

My plugs looked pretty damn good. When my valves were checked somewhere after 20K, none needed much adjustment. Good job doing it yourself.

 

[Constant Mesh]

Recommendations on what one might use to the fill in the space around the coolant pipes as they pass down through the head cover?

I try to vacuum out any debris down there before removing the pipes but I've been concerned about bits of debris falling down into the ports as I remove the pipes.

Something which could tolerate the heat yet be easily removable and reusable.

I've wondered why Yamaha didn't fashion some flexible component which would encircle the pipes to keep stuff out of that area.

Corrosion can develop on the outside of those pipes.

 

[BkerChuck]

Sounds very similar to my experience last month. Did my first check at 56k miles. All valves within spec, changed CCT, and fought that damn coolant pipe. I think I had that hose and pipe off 3 times until I finally got it to seat everywhere properly with no leaks.

Glad I did it though.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Some day I may get around to it. 86K and still running. Yeh, I know I am pushing my luck. Oh well. I Did change the oil this weekend when I got back from Kanukistan.

Dave

 

[eflyguy]

I've wondered why Yamaha didn't fashion some flexible component which would encircle the pipes to keep stuff out of that area.
Corrosion can develop on the outside of those pipes.

I have not dug into my FJR, but both my '01 and '07 FZ1s has a drain hole on the left side of the block that routes to the base of those areas. You have to blow grit and such out before taking off the cam cover, but liquid should drain out thru that hole. There shouldn't be much grit up there, because it's behind the radiator.

 

[RaYzerman19]

I've wondered why Yamaha didn't fashion some flexible component which would encircle the pipes to keep stuff out of that area.
Corrosion can develop on the outside of those pipes.

I have not dug into my FJR, but both my '01 and '07 FZ1s has a drain hole on the left side of the block that routes to the base of those areas. You have to blow grit and such out before taking off the cam cover, but liquid should drain out thru that hole. There shouldn't be much grit up there, because it's behind the radiator.

I have done several valve checks and despite being on top of the engine with the (GenII) heat shield nicely fitted, it is amazing the crap that can accumulate there. Small grit, bugs, gravelly with a drop of oil mixed..... I usually use a very small screwdriver to scrape the stuff loose, vacuum what we can, blow the rest, scrape some more, blow some more.

 

[rbentnail]

Recommendations on what one might use to the fill in the space around the coolant pipes as they pass down through the head cover?
I try to vacuum out any debris down there before removing the pipes but I've been concerned about bits of debris falling down into the ports as I remove the pipes.

Something which could tolerate the heat yet be easily removable and reusable.

I've wondered why Yamaha didn't fashion some flexible component which would encircle the pipes to keep stuff out of that area.

Corrosion can develop on the outside of those pipes.

High temp flexible ceramic blanket, cut to size. Stuff in holes. Keeps those little pebbles from collecting in there. I also dab some grease on the tip of a screwdriver and stick to them to remove.

 

[want2ride]

I used a stiff brush to loosen up the gunk and then blew it out several times with my leaf blower. The pipes required cleaning once they were out.

Finished up the bike yesterday. She started right up and purred like a kitten. Chain noise is gone. Power is back and I am a happy owner.

 

[Gitbox]

Recommendations on what one might use to the fill in the space around the coolant pipes as they pass down through the head cover?

How about a large O-ring? Roll it down over the opening when the pipe is back in place.