Valve Clearance and Shim Changing

[MotoMike]

I ride a 2007 FJR 1300A. I have just completed the valve clearance checks at 84,000 kms. Five of the clearances on the intake side are just at the bottom of the spec (0.15mm). Four of the clearances on the exhaust side are also just at the bottom of the spec (0.18mm). I do not plan to lift the camshafts completeIy off the top of the engine in order to change the offending shims. I have zip-tied the cam chain to the camshaft sprockets and to the crankshaft sprocket. I plan to release the tension on the cam chain tensioner.

Question 1: will I need to completely remove the tensioner from it's mounting point on the engine or will just releasing the tension on the chain be sufficient to allow me to move the cams enough to be able to access the buckets and shims?

Question 2: Can anyone recommend a good source of shims. I am in Moncton, NB, Canada.

 

[RossKean]

If they are all still in spec, I wouldn't touch them until the next check, unless you are planning a lot of riding in the upcoming season and won't have the luxury of a long maintenance season (aka winter in Atlantic Canada) to do the work. Spec is spec and Yamaha expects that they will not wear too much before the next scheduled check to cause any damage or seriously harm performance. There is a significant tolerance and the specifications are conservative.

You do not need to remove the tensioner. It has to be retracted and kept from releasing while you are working on it. I turn it with a suitable long shaft screwdriver through the hole in the frame and clamp a small vice-grip on the shaft to weight it down and keep it from turning back under the spring tension. A piece of tape to hold stuff in place so the blade doesn't slip out of the slot.

Zip-tie your cam chain to the cam sprockets and take similar precautions to ensure that the chain doesn't slip on the crank on the bottom end. Mark the cam sprockets at TDC on the INSIDE where the marks are easier to see than the factory marks on the outside of the sprockets. You'll thank me later.

These are a common motorcycle engine shim (9.48mm dia.). Most motorcycle shops will have them in stock - at least in their service department. I would certainly check with Motoplex and others. They might even swap shims with you (more likely a small independent for that). I swap shims around so I don't need as many. I have been known to sand shims down using wet carbide paper on a piece of glass. 240 grit, followed by 400 and frequent measurements using a digital caliper or micrometer. Shims are NOT surface hardened and I can do one in 5-10 minutes.

Use the Valve Check Excel spreadsheet for calculations and record keeping.

If you decide to make changes, set all clearances to 70% of the maximum and you may never need to do them again.

 

[MotoMike]

RossKean,
I thank you for your sage advice: "spec is spec". I am choosing to leave well enough alone and re-check the clearances at 126,000 kms.

 

[RossKean]

RossKean,
I thank you for your sage advice: "spec is spec". I am choosing to leave well enough alone and re-check the clearances at 126,000 kms.

One man's opinion, but this is nothing different from what Yamaha would recommend. These clearances do not change quickly and I'm sure you will be fine.
On my 2007, the intakes were all close to minimum on the first check. I didn't end out making changes until I was well over 150,000 km. One more adjustment needed while I owned the bike, but that was at over 250,000 km.

 

[SkooterG]

Good advice all around from Mr. RossKean.

 

[MotoMike]

So: I reassembled the the engine after deciding to do the valve shim changes after all. The engine started up after a few tries and using the WOT technique. PHEW, no timing chain issue. I then proceeded to do a throttle-body synch only to discover a major coolant leak from where the coolant pipe located on top of the engine enters the top of the engine. I had used new O-rings from a kit purchased at Princess Auto. I thought they were the correct size, but apparently not.

Can any of you respected gurus give me:
1) the actual correct size of O-rings
2) tips and tricks to use when installing said coolant pipe.

 

[SkooterG]

I always have used Yamaha OEM O-rings. Why go through the hassle you are now with cheap parts that *might* work.

I use steel wool on the coolant pipe where it goes into the valve cover and where the O-rings seat. There is a good chance there is some corrosion there. Then I apply a light coat of grease to that area to hopefully inhibit future corrosion and to make the O-ring easier to get on, and for the pipe to slide into the valve cover. Many valve checks and I have never had one leak.

 

[BkerChuck]

The actual o-ring is a 2-116 N70 buna o-ring. I work for a hydraulics shop and had our parts manager help me out.

 

[Dan Cooper]

So: I reassembled the the engine after deciding to do the valve shim changes after all. The engine started up after a few tries and using the WOT technique. PHEW, no timing chain issue. I then proceeded to do a throttle-body synch only to discover a major coolant leak from where the coolant pipe located on top of the engine enters the top of the engine. I had used new O-rings from a kit purchased at Princess Auto. I thought they were the correct size, but apparently not.

Can any of you respected gurus give me:
1) the actual correct size of O-rings
2) tips and tricks to use when installing said coolant pipe.

The o-rings you have may or may not be the correct size.
But the actual process of installing the waterpipe to the top of the head is sometimes problematic.
Sometimes the o-ring will slip (or partially slip) over the bulge on the waterpipe as the waterpipe is installed and fail to seal properly.
If you can dry out the wells where the waterpipe fits, it may be possible to examine down the wells with a light to see if any black from the o-ring is visible above the waterpipe bulge.
In any case it means removing the water pipe and re-installing, probably new o-rings would be a good idea.
I use o-rings from the plumbing section of my local big box store, #14 @ about 35 cents US each in a box of 10.

It's even more difficult on the Gen 1 scooters while trying to get the thermostat housing onto the waterpipe at the same time.

 

[SkooterG]

It's even more difficult on the Gen 1 scooters while trying to get the thermostat housing onto the waterpipe at the same time.

Amen on that Brother Dan. Lots of cusswords involved.