Weatherproof Pelican Case for Valentine 1 Detector

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ignacio

Intramural Culture Warrior
Staff member
Joined
Jun 28, 2005
Messages
9,429
Reaction score
2,772
Location
Tri-Cities, WA
I've seen a variety of ideas for weatherproofing radar detectors from the purpose built unit from Legal Speeding to tupperware containers to shower caps.

Why should I be any different? I should come up with yet another hack at trying to make the V1 from getting sopping wet.

I've been living with my detector on my dash, but it vibrated too much and I also bought a Starcom so it went in my tankbag where it still picks up radar, but I thought it was a little diminished. I'd really like the sucker up where it can see the radar and laser uninterrupted.

So, I measured it twice and ordered up a Pelican 1020 Case from REI. For less than $20 I figure I could give it a try and if I dremeled it into oblivion....and enjoy the bottle of Hedges Three Vineyards.

pelicanv101.jpg


Dry fitting in the detector I quickly surmized the V1 wasn't going to fit in the case with the integrated seal and liner. I couldn't take it out without compromising the watetightness.

pelicanv102.jpg


And even if I took it out the V1 didn't quite fit width-wise. The volume knob area was about 1 or 2 mm to narrow.

pelicanv103.jpg


After a couple more glasses of wine I figured out I could do two things to fix the fitting, power cord, and view for the radar detector windows.

1) Dremel the outer clear case......very carefully.

pelicanv104.jpg


2) Cut the gasket in key spots for fit. To help it fit cut a slot around the volume knob area and along the whole length of the other side so the flat side is right up against the plastic.

pelicanv105.jpg


3) Cut the gasket and the outer case for the power cord. Fortunately the way I lined up the detector the dremeling on the inside for the volume knob conveniently made the power outlet line up right between two reinforcement ribs.

pelicanv106.jpg


Now the big dremel moment......a hole for the power cord. (FYI, I totally staged the holding to take a shot. That sucker wasn't spinning any.)

pelicanv107.jpg


Now it's time to see if it fits. And it does! The gasket is a bit crooked, but I think I can deal with that.

pelicanv108.jpg


You can see the front window cut in the gasket so the detector can see behind me...or more precisely to my right rear. The lid snapped shut puts a little force on the power cord, but it seems happy.

pelicanv110.jpg


A bit more dremeling on the bottom ribs, some 3M Dual Lock, and here it is perched on the brake reservoir.

pelicanv111.jpg


Here's what it looks like from my eye level.

pelicanv112.jpg


And, even though I'll hear the beep first through my Starcom I think I might be able to look down and utilize the arrows of the V1 through the lid. And, if not, I think I can later tweak the case and put in a window of lexan that doesn't distort things as badly.

pelicanv113.jpg


And finally what it looks like from the main business end.

pelicanv114.jpg


I haven't really tested it yet. I'm hoping that I don't need to silicone up the cord hole as it seems to sit right under a little roof of plastic. You can bet when it does rain I'll keep an eye on things and adjust as necessary.

I'll follow up after I do.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nice write up, ya drunk *******! :) Sure is cheeper than the legal speeding case, and easier to open/close. Though I'm travelling to Canada this summer and would really like something more 'stealth'--can you do that? :) Seriously, nice write-up, let us know how it works.

 
Nice job Iggy. Was wondering about those pelican cases a while back... so do you leave the power knob turned on, and it just comes on when the key is turned, or do you have to open the case to turn it on?

 
Now that is nice and more detailed than what i did/used.

Since I have my detector and a light switch velcrowed to the stem stand, I tried to find sometihng that could be used when it was required. Then removed and placed in the glove box when not.

I found that blister pack from different type of items fit fine, just trim and put velcro on them, covers switch and can still operate while it is in place. I think for the switch i was able to use a relay blister pack.

for my radar detector, some velcro on top of the detector and then on the inside of another piece of a blister pack and I just stick it to the top of the detector and it holds fine in the rain. I have been able to test in heavy rain/ high speed.

Will post pics if any one is interested in a uncostly/ sightly way. :eek:

 
good job iggy, nicely done. lemme know how it works out functionally for ya.
When I switched over to my Starcom and powered and switched tank bag, I moved the radar detector there.....so I leave the knobs alone on the detector. If I need to make an adjustment I do it on the audio controller velcroed on the side of my tank bag. Different project, but a view inside my mobile multimedia theater. Haven't yet found room for the 52" plasma...

pelicanv117.jpg


Nice write up, ya drunk *******! :) Sure is cheeper than the legal speeding case, and easier to open/close. Though I'm travelling to Canada this summer and would really like something more 'stealth'--can you do that? :) Seriously, nice write-up, let us know how it works.
It could be a bit stealthier and I think with some masking tape in key spots and black Krylon for Plastic might be something I'll add. It's that rub between stealthy and it being able to see. If only Valentine made a remote unit that had sensors.....to break up that typical radar detector dimension.

You're right about it being easy to open. Here's a picture of how easy it is to open.

pelicanv115.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Do you really need a detector when its raining? I'd think you'd slow down to at least the posted limit and I don't recall ever seeing a revenuer pinging in the rain. Otherwise, nice solution. I guess a secondary benefit is that the coppers won't readily recognize that as a radar detector, either.

 
Do you really need a detector when its raining? I'd think you'd slow down to at least the posted limit and I don't recall ever seeing a revenuer pinging in the rain. Otherwise, nice solution. I guess a secondary benefit is that the coppers won't readily recognize that as a radar detector, either.
But if it starts raining, it's may be difficult to remove and stow while riding.

 
Do you really need a detector when its raining? I'd think you'd slow down to at least the posted limit and I don't recall ever seeing a revenuer pinging in the rain. Otherwise, nice solution. I guess a secondary benefit is that the coppers won't readily recognize that as a radar detector, either.
But if it starts raining, it's may be difficult to remove and stow while riding.
Woodstock is right on the money. If I'm in a rally I don't want to have another reason to stop and lose time or fiddle with pulling things off and risk splatting. The goal of this farkle is to minimize or eliminate one more distraction.

 
Woodstock is right on the money. If I'm in a rally I don't want to have another reason to stop and lose time or fiddle with pulling things off and risk splatting. The goal of this farkle is to minimize or eliminate one more distraction.
Right. Didn't consider the rally point for obvious reasons.

 
Iggy, It seems like you may be able to use something like 3M electrical putty tape or some type of moldable seal around the power feed to the unit to waterproof it, maybe something that would remain plyable that could be removed easily.

Anyone know if the Valentine is smaller or bigger than a Passport X-50?

 
Iggy, It seems like you may be able to use something like 3M electrical putty tape or some type of moldable seal around the power feed to the unit to waterproof it, maybe something that would remain plyable that could be removed easily.
That's a great idea! I didn't know that kind of thing existed. A little Googling and I found this.

Anyone know if the Valentine is smaller or bigger than a Passport X-50?
I don't have the specs on an X-50, but I happen to have an older Passport 7500 for my cage and the comparisons are below. If you're wondering if an X-50 would fit in this Pelican case I would think it's very likely. I think the X-50s are narrower than the V1 and a bit longer. There's a bunch of room left for length and height in the Pelican case. However, I don't think the next smaller Pelican case 1010 would cut it.

V1: 4.5" long x 3.6" wide x 1.3" tall

7500: 5" long x 2.8" wide x 1.2" tall

pelicanv118.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nice trick... HMM I have a Pelican at home.... :)

And this may work for the guys that need a concealed mount, stick it under / in the nose fairing and it'll be watertight ???

 
The X50 will fit in one too..

I just happen to be setting up the same basic thing. I've got mine mounted on a RAM mount in the same general location. I dont have any pics of it, but will see about posting some later.

 
The X50 will fit in one too..
I just happen to be setting up the same basic thing. I've got mine mounted on a RAM mount in the same general location. I dont have any pics of it, but will see about posting some later.

I have mine mounted on a short arm ram mount with a magnetic powerplate. I think I'm going to take Iggy's lead and try this out. I have an old magnetic sign from the side of my truck that I can cut up and glue onto the bottom of the pelican case. I very seldom look at the display on the detector and like the audio alert in the helmet better anyway. The only real drawback I can see is not being able to mute it when I want...Still better than doing the electronics shuffle every time the sky opens up.

 
Very nice write up!

I also used a Pelican 1020 for my V-1, but did things a little different.

First off, I found that with just a little pressure the detector would fit into the box when placed 'backwards' from how you have it. I used a 'clear' box with the black liner.

I also cut windows in the liner for the front and rear antennas and then I sprayed the inside of the lid with the plastic Krylon. I could have left a window to see the arrows, but I didn't need to see them with my remote display.

Also, instead of cutting a large hole for the power cord, I cut a 'slot' into the side of the case and made a very short (~3") cord to connect to the detector. Once it the detector was fitted into the case I just connected the other end of the cord to a RJ6 'coupling'.

Then... I sealed off the area where the cord came through the case and where the plug fits into the coupler with silicone sealer. That way I could unplug the detector (for storage or in 'illegal' area) without interupping the 'seal' made with the case. The other side of the coupler, where it attaches to the power, I sealed with DieElectic grease.

This worked GREAT for thousands of miles..... Butt... during my 10/10ths ride last month my RAM ball mount on my brake master cylinder broke... long story short.. I ended up pulling on the cord through the case and disrupting the seal. So... for the next few hundred miles the heavy rain and high winds did allow some (very slight) seepage into the case.

I am going to just go ahead and seal the case with silicone sealer on the 'seal' and on the inside of where the power plug exits.

The way mine looks many people just think it is some kind of antenna. I always like the 'out of sight, out of mind' idea on radar detectors...

Hope this also helps...

 
Very nice write up!
I also used a Pelican 1020 for my V-1, but did things a little different...
Any chance of a picture or two? I kind of get it, but thinking I'd understand your points better with some pixels.

 
for those of you that don't want the gay green (love ya iggy :p ) and want 4 color choices, and to pay 6 bucks LESS, look here:

pelican 1020

dana

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Latest posts

Top