Weird electrical problem

[Dudewado]

dcarver, the battery ground connection really needs to have a wrench put to it. If the connection is loose causing intermittent contact you may have gotten lucky and ohmed the connection while it was 'good'. Also, in motorcycle & car ground circuits .2 ohms can be significant. When making a very low ohm reading, set your DMM to the lowest scale and touch the two meter leads together. The value you read is the resistance of the meter leads. Note this number. Now make your ohm measurement then subtract the meter lead values. In your case this should equal just about zero ohms of resistance. But, if the cable is loose you may have just caught it at a good moment.
I was able to get to the block ground on my Gen I by using a couple of extensions and a swivel joint on my socket wrench. It's worth a look before pulling plastic.

Thanks IonBeam, I haven't ohmed the battery cable yet and will zero out the meter leads first.

Even if it measures good, I'll clean the connection anyway.

What you expect the battery cable resistance value range to be? .02 to .08?

Don, remember your little "Bambi" incident? Consider what everything's been through.

Like IonBeam says, check that ground.

KaitsDad, which relay should I be looking at? Per PonyFool's encouragement, I removed some plastic this morning..

ROFLMAO!

I'd check that wire bundle hanging in the middle there.

 

[3dogs]

Using a Ohm meter to check a battery cable is a waste of time because the test only tells you that the cable is indeed connected. You need to perfrom a voltage drop test with the starter cranking, or with some accessories turned on. Voltage drop testing will tell you the qualily of the connection.

Also, I would check a wiring diagram to see if all the things that you mentioned make the engine die are on the same circuit. If they are not, unplug the fuse that powers each thing one at a time an see if with one of the circuits disabled the engine does not stall. You need to isolate which circuit is causing the problem. Hope this helps. Tracy...

This book could help you out as well as voltage drop testing and checking bad grouds is specifically covered. You can get one from Skymoto who is a vendor on this forum.

Motorcycle Electrical Systems, Troubleshooting and Repair

 

[ionbeam]

I've previously posted a battery & cable diagnostic that includes voltage drop testing.

 

[dcarver]

Update. Last night measured cable resistance using Fluke 75, best resolution is only 1/10 ohm, so probably useless. Display read 00.0 ohms with leads shorted. Measured from battery terminal to various frame ground points, 0.00 ohms.

Found the ground wire at engine case, could barely get 3/8" drive universal and 10mm socket on bolt head, realized I would NEVER be able to hold the wire in place and start the bolt if I removed the bolt, and since I need the FJR for work, decided the best temporary solution would be to loosen the bolt, (it was tight, spray some good electrical contact cleaner on it, then tighten up again.

Bolt / connection was tight, no signs of corrosion.

No problems again today on the ride in.

Maybe this weekend will remove tupperware to take a harder look.

 

[kaitsdad]

Update. Last night measured cable resistance using Fluke 75, best resolution is only 1/10 ohm, so probably useless. Display read 00.0 ohms with leads shorted. Measured from battery terminal to various frame ground points, 0.00 ohms.
Found the ground wire at engine case, could barely get 3/8" drive universal and 10mm socket on bolt head, realized I would NEVER be able to hold the wire in place and start the bolt if I removed the bolt, and since I need the FJR for work, decided the best temporary solution would be to loosen the bolt, (it was tight, spray some good electrical contact cleaner on it, then tighten up again.

Bolt / connection was tight, no signs of corrosion.

No problems again today on the ride in.

Maybe this weekend will remove tupperware to take a harder look.

Main ground looks good - next check should be harness connectors.

 

[radman]

Someone posted a while back concerning the harness junctions below the tank, in the vee formed by the frame rails joining the neck. Having chased some odd vibration problems, I checked mine, and found them pretty corroded. They are in a spot where water running off the front of the tank, as well as water coming off the tree, bars, etc is funneled right into that area. Cleaning it up solved the vibration, obviously a coil induced misfire at speed. Bears attention, regardless of year I would think. It's not a weatherpack connection IIRC.

 

[dcarver]

Someone posted a while back concerning the harness junctions below the tank, in the vee formed by the frame rails joining the neck. Having chased some odd vibration problems, I checked mine, and found them pretty corroded. They are in a spot where water running off the front of the tank, as well as water coming off the tree, bars, etc is funneled right into that area. Cleaning it up solved the vibration, obviously a coil induced misfire at speed. Bears attention, regardless of year I would think. It's not a weatherpack connection IIRC.

Great idea, Kaitsdad and Rad. Will pull the tank tonight and check under hood. At least tonight this old man won't be on his back on the concrete looking into a dark void while wearing granny glasses and holding a AA flashlight in his teeth..

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Don,

Here's the link that may help you out:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=268059

 

[radman]

Great idea, Kaitsdad and Rad. Will pull the tank tonight and check under hood. At least tonight this old man won't be on his back on the concrete looking into a dark void while wearing granny glasses and holding a AA flashlight in his teeth..

You may not have found, for sure (electrical problem causes aren't necessarily obvious) the problem, but you have eliminated many potentials. One of the largest cost factors in having electricals sorted by a pro, is the time spent in doing so. I have seen $1,300 bills to locate and repair using $5 worth of materials far to many times.

 

[dcarver]

Update:

Tonight I pulled the left side covers (not sure what the panel numbers are) but left hand side as sitting on the bike, and did more inspections. I didn't feel I had time to pull the tank and check under there, so I did what I could.

I found the hi/lo beam relay, promptly broke the freakin' hard plastic 'tab' connecting the wire harness to the 'adapter' that then holds the hi/low relay. WTFO? I barely 'moved' the tabs for clearance, next thing I have a connector in two pieces.

Makes me wonder if I'm doing more harm than good in this quest. I put everything back, after cleaning of course, using high quality 3M electrical tape to ensure the connector doesn't disconnect from relay later on.

I did find two connectors, unconnected, that are, IIRC, used for the AE's heated hand grips. They were hanging down past the radiator cap, exposed. I looked at them, no signs of arcing, wrapped the ends with electrical tape, then zip typed them away from any possible ground contact.

Couldn't figure how to get the stupid glove box removed, and there are two large electrical connectors in the region. I had the glove box 'loose' but must have missed one more bolt or plastic whatchmacallit pinning it on the front bottom side.

Once again, I wonder if I'm doing more harm than good at this point...

I will pull tank Saturday (at least I have 2 days to play then) and check all connections on the harness.

Thanks again everyone, appreciate the help..

 

[Silent]

Go Don! I hope you manage to find this elusive bug in your system!

 

[dcarver]

Epilogue..

Burnt ground spider syndrome..

...now this thread has been completed.

You are welcome.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Epilogue..

Burnt ground spider syndrome..

...now this thread has been completed.

You are welcome.

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!! Don... MAN! I have not had a good night sleep for 2½ years since you posted this. Now I can sleep well tonight.
Seriously, glad you know what it is and fixed... I hope it's fixed. Ride safe my friend.