What brake pads are the better upgrade?

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BrunDog

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My local Cycle Gear had both EBC HH pads and Galfer semi-metallics in stock. They did not have the Galfer HH models. While I don't reeeeeaaaally need new pads, it'll be something to do, and I can chalk it up to improved safety, right?? :rolleyes:

Anyhoo, the saleswipe told me to go with the Galfers, not the EBCs. He said that unless I ride HARD, like regular track use, the HH were not the pads to get. He said HH stands for High Heat, and they NEED to be hot to work right!?!? By the same token, he said that if they had the Galfer HH's he would have told me to get those?!?! :crazy: Let's just say I didn't have a lot of faith in this clown. :clown2: I did end up buying the Galfers, but I wonder if I should have bought the EBCs. Of course I can take them back and swap.

The Galfer website is useless, and the EBC site says nothing of any high heat requirement. So, I turn to you, my faithful pros.

What do you recommend in this scenario?

TIA!

-BD

 
My local Cycle Gear had both EBC HH pads and Galfer semi-metallics in stock. They did not have the Galfer HH models. While I don't reeeeeaaaally need new pads, it'll be something to do, and I can chalk it up to improved safety, right?? :rolleyes:
Anyhoo, the saleswipe told me to go with the Galfers, not the EBCs. He said that unless I ride HARD, like regular track use, the HH were not the pads to get. He said HH stands for High Heat, and they NEED to be hot to work right!?!? By the same token, he said that if they had the Galfer HH's he would have told me to get those?!?! :crazy: Let's just say I didn't have a lot of faith in this clown. :clown2: I did end up buying the Galfers, but I wonder if I should have bought the EBCs. Of course I can take them back and swap.

The Galfer website is useless, and the EBC site says nothing of any high heat requirement. So, I turn to you, my faithful pros.

What do you recommend in this scenario?

TIA!

-BD
+1 on this one. I am interested in the answeres to this as well.

 
Not knowing a dam thing about brake pads, it would be my suggestion to get pads that react immediately even when cold. If pads take a while to heat up you may never get a chance to use them at max potential having already over run what ever required an immediate stop.

 
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Both are excellent pads. I would give the edge to the the EBC HH pads; they receive some pretty high praise in the Blackbird community.

 
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I have run the EBCHH pads for a year now. They have excellent initial bite, yet work well when toasty. They are fairly clean, in that little dust is created once broken in. EBay has them often for bargain prices, though beware they come 2 ways-with or without shims. FA252HH is the one to get. I forget the non-shimmed ones (you can use the originals) but I believe they are a 252HH part number, and are slightly less dough.

 
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Apples to Apples HH/sintered pads are better than semi-metal.....order the Galfer HH you won't be disappointed....I have hh pads and the Galfer Lines....wow what a difference.

 
If you aren't in a rush, take a look at the Carbon Lorraine (spelling) pads. I got those with the wave rotor group buy a while back. I really like them.

Rick

 
For regular riding & occasional track days I've been using DP brake pads on the FJR & my CB1100F hooligan bike....your experience my vary....I do find the feedback from them (using braided lines on both bikes) very good....

 
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If you aren't in a rush, take a look at the Carbon Lorraine (spelling) pads. I got those with the wave rotor group buy a while back. I really like them.
Rick
+1

I got some of these with my Speigler group buy. I finally had a need to swap pads at the end of Fall and am very pleased with how they did during SFO.

 
I've had good luck with the OEM pads. Do you guys usually have your rotors turned when you change pads? I'm gettin' ready to replace the brake and clutch fluid (18000 mi.) and am planning on replacing the pads at that time.

 
I got the Carbone Loraine on the Speigler group buy as well. The pads are excellent (for me), they are a little dusty but probably equal to the original OEM pads. You really can't have your rotors turned as they are at minimal thickness brand new (at least mind were). You might want to give them the once over with a non directional scrub with some emery cloth, making sure you clean them (the rotors) after you've finished with the abrasive.

 
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my understanding is that a lot of bike rotors are too hard to turn without using a grinder (instead of the typical lathe). i'm not sure i've heard of anyone turning bike rotors as any part of routine maintenance.

 
Thanks for the info guys. The rotors look to be in great shape. Back in the 70's early 80's The rotors must have been much softer as we routinely would take a .005/.010 cut across both faces when changing pads. I can remember them being noticeably grooved after only a few thousand miles of use. Technology (and metallurgy) is a good thing!

 
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