What's needed to get the old Beemer back up and running?

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zzzzip

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I've been looking at an '84 BMW K100RT that has a license 6 years old on it. The owner says he ran it a couple of years ago when he rode it a few miles, but not since. Been sitting in a hangar (owner does professional resto work on radial tail draggin air planes from the 40s, 50, 60s).

My question: since it has no battery it can't be run. I am reluctant to just hook one up and fire it up after so long. The tank is clean of rust-- he emptied it a couple of weeks ago to show me. Antifreeze is green and clean, brake fluid looks ok. My concern is cranking it after setting (inside out of the weather) after so many years. Any input on what I should do before trying to start it up to prevent the possibility of engine/trans damage? I know what I would do with a small block Chevy, but this is new ground for me.

Or should I just get it running as is, and then change all the fluids?

I low balled him because I can't ride the bike and it is a pig in a poke. I've known him long enough that I trust his word, and we go eyeball to eyeball every once in a while anyway-- but that's not the issue here. I'm just looking for something to work on over the winter and am willing to gamble the $500 to get started.

Any info/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 
This might help:

mly0620l.jpg


j/k

um, what about changing the oil if it's been sitting so long? Any tubes dry rotted that need to be replaced?

I'll see if I can ask one of my friends what to look for, he's a mechanic at Bob's BMW in MD...(or was that Mortons in MD?) Whatever, I'll ask him if he's got any suggestions.

 
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I've been looking at an '84 BMW K100RT that has a license 6 years old on it. The owner says he ran it a couple of years ago when he rode it a few miles, but not since. Been sitting in a hangar (owner does professional resto work on radial tail draggin air planes from the 40s, 50, 60s).
My question: since it has no battery it can't be run. I am reluctant to just hook one up and fire it up after so long. The tank is clean of rust-- he emptied it a couple of weeks ago to show me. Antifreeze is green and clean, brake fluid looks ok. My concern is cranking it after setting (inside out of the weather) after so many years. Any input on what I should do before trying to start it up to prevent the possibility of engine/trans damage? I know what I would do with a small block Chevy, but this is new ground for me.

Or should I just get it running as is, and then change all the fluids?

I low balled him because I can't ride the bike and it is a pig in a poke. I've known him long enough that I trust his word, and we go eyeball to eyeball every once in a while anyway-- but that's not the issue here. I'm just looking for something to work on over the winter and am willing to gamble the $500 to get started.

Any info/suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I have owned a 1985 k100rt for about 15 years, have over 100,000 miles on it, and still ride it some. The engines are bullet proof with about 90 hp, but the driveshaft splines can be an issue if not lubricated occassionally with the correct grease. Mine has been all over including Alaska. Recently, I installed radial tires and it handles much better. I was just in WI to the national BMW rally and I saw several.

To see if it cranks over with jumper cables, pop the left side painted cover off and you can get to the battery. Pos. is on the left side. To remove the battery, the seat needs to be removed, then remove the ECM and plastic storage box by removing the wiring harness first(Place a screwdriver through the hole in the bottom of the black plastic storage box and push the harness release lever towards the back of the bike). Sounds like alot, but only takes about 5 mins. (Need a Clymers!!!) I am about due for another battery on my RT. I called Bobs BMW this week and they only sell BMW and Westco gel batteries for the RT which are alittle over $100. BMW batteries supposedly require a special charger, but I can use my Battery Tender Plus on the Westco gel.

It is fuel injected, so hopefully the fuel pump and injectors work. Put some fresh gas in!! With the key on, push the starter button and release, you should hear the pump for 2 seconds. Even though its injected, it has a lever by the clutch lever thats called a choke and has a yellow light on the dash when on. When the engine is cool from sitting, that lever needs to be moved to choke position. It gives a fast idle when started. If you don't, it will either not start and/or stall when you try to ride off. I keep mine on choke for the first few blocks. If you take the 4 screws out of the gas cap and remove, the pump, screen, and filter are in the tank. The 4 injectors are along the left side of the engine, but easier to access if the left lower is removed. I had the gas tank off several years ago for a while and an injector stuck. I had a hard time getting it to run, used a long screwdriver on the injectors to my ear to find the bad one, and then pull the fuel rail with injectors. Carb cleaner did the job on the dirty injector.

When you change the engine oil, the transmission is separate. The oil filter is up in the engine. After draining the engine oil, remove the 3 allen screws from a plate. Note o ring. You will need a filter wrench that fits up in the opening of the engine to remove the filter. I use Purolator L10183 oil filters in both my K bikes.

Hopefully this helps alittle. Good luck

 
Gunny, on the getting it home idea

You can power it up using any 12v batt and some jumper cables. If the fuel system doesn't leak at the pressure and return hoses spin it over to get some oil up and let it start. After it warms up change the oil and filter. The trans is not an issue as it is or should be full of regular gear oil and the same with the diff.. After it has shown to be a runner then catch up on the required service. Those engines are known for their dependability so I doubt you will have any problems. Watch out for trans leaks and final drive issues cause they can be really pricey and if you don't do the clutch and drive splines they will get at your wallet also. :)

 
I wouldn't think you'll have any problems with it, as a K owner myself, they a bullet proof. I would bet you need to have the injectors cleaned, they are susceptible to clogging after have sat for such a prolonged period of time, maybe not though you never know. Put in frest gas, a battery and see what happens. As was said change the oil asap, and get fresh tires on it, don't ride with old. hard tires - don't ask me how I know.

 
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I've been looking at an '84 BMW K100RT that has a license 6 years old on it. The owner says he ran it a couple of years ago when he rode it a few miles, but not since. Been sitting in a hangar (owner does professional resto work on radial tail draggin air planes from the 40s, 50, 60s).
My question: since it has no battery it can't be run. I am reluctant to just hook one up and fire it up after so long. The tank is clean of rust-- he emptied it a couple of weeks ago to show me. Antifreeze is green and clean, brake fluid looks ok. My concern is cranking it after setting (inside out of the weather) after so many years. Any input on what I should do before trying to start it up to prevent the possibility of engine/trans damage? I know what I would do with a small block Chevy, but this is new ground for me.

Or should I just get it running as is, and then change all the fluids?

I low balled him because I can't ride the bike and it is a pig in a poke. I've known him long enough that I trust his word, and we go eyeball to eyeball every once in a while anyway-- but that's not the issue here. I'm just looking for something to work on over the winter and am willing to gamble the $500 to get started.

Any info/suggestions are greatly appreciated.
How many miles are on it? I also don't think you will have any problems getting it running. I have owned one for 15 years, runs great, has well over 100,000 miles on it, not worth much, and just ride it once in a while. The engines are bullet proof, but the rest of the drive train can be interesting depending on how its been maintained. I was just in Wisconson on my FJR to the national BMW rally and saw leveral old K100's.

I don't know if you know the oil filter is in the bottom of the engine. Three allen screw must be taken out so a plate can be removed(watch the O ring). I use a Puralator L10183 in both my K bikes.

I first K bikes from the mid 80's will smoke like crazy when started if you park them leaned over on the side stand. The rings were changed later so the oil doesn't run past them into the cylinder when parked. My RT will smoke some if parked this way over night and alot, if for days. It still does not use oil, but I put it on the center stand when parked. My 97 doesn't have this problem.

If you replace the tires, I would go with radials. There isn't much out there that size. I tried Avons once front and back, but got a bad front tire that wouldn't balance out, shook terrible at 30=40 mph. I run PR's on the front and a Avon on the back of both my K bikes. I know we aren't suppose to mix tires, but it handles so much better with radials than the old bias Dunlop 491's.

I have done all the work on both my K bikes and have some stories. Get a Clymers. Have fun.

 
Walk away if it's been sitting for 6 years, unless it's practically free. The motors are great, it's the rest of it that will need $$ and attention. If it's practically a give away and you have plenty of time on your hands fresh gas and change the oil. Check the airbox for a nest first-access from right side, undo the clips and just spread it open to check for rodents. Good luck!

 
What others have said, but aslo spray a little oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes before your try to start it.

 
Thanks for the input, fellows.

We have yet to come to terms on the price, and now I see I need to take a look at the spines issue a little closer. I kinda figured I should spray a little oil in the cylinders over night, but wasn't sure about that. Hey, if you read it on the Internet, it can't be wrong, right? I didn't have time or tools to pull the plugs last time for a looksee.

The mouse nest appeared to be out side the box a month ago. Hope they didn't have an appetite for wiring and decided to pee in unimportant areas.

With next week being 100+ heat index, it may be as good a time as the dead of winter to stop by and wave some cash around. I'll go nuts if I don't have something to work on 6 months from now.

B)

 
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