FJRski_2007
Well-known member
Looking to get a torque wrench, does anyone know any good web sites, I really dont want to spend lot of money for a craftsman.
Where can I get an inexpensive torque wrench
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evilmedic13
Well-known member
Just do it the old fashioned way. Borrow a neighbors and never give it back 
or wait for a sale at Sears. What's "cheap" for you?
or wait for a sale at Sears. What's "cheap" for you?
Some folks might say that an inexpensive torque wrench is not worth what you pay for it. The problem is that most of us never get our wrenches calibrated and whatever calibration was done at the manufacturer drifts out with time and use. Some of the really cheap ones may never have been right out of the box.
smokeFJR06
Well-known member
I felt the same way for 3 years and just didn't use one. I finally broke down and got one at Sears when they were on sale. Got it and haven't regretted it.
On sale now!! https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...=tourque+wrench
That's the exact wrench I have. The plastic locking collar spilt on me and Sears doesn't treat their Craftsman torque wrenches the same as their other wrenches (no free replacements), but other than that it has been a good wrench.
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
If you want cheap, just get one of those bendy-bar kind. Just realize that it's accurate to within, oh, 30% or so.
Personally, I would not be worried about torque on anything on the bike, unless I get into the head or bearings, maybe major suspension fasteners. You know when something's tight and when it's not. And we all know about drain plug specs and replacement oil pans.
Personally, I would not be worried about torque on anything on the bike, unless I get into the head or bearings, maybe major suspension fasteners. You know when something's tight and when it's not. And we all know about drain plug specs and replacement oil pans.
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Haha. Yeah, like which guy in the Yamaha Parts Supply marketing group set the torque spec on the drain plug double what any other aluminum drain plug's spec is...
Fencer
Why yes, I am a Smart ASS
$25 for a 3/8 drive at Autozone. Can't guarantee its acurracy though.
Zorlac
Well-known member
"If you want cheap, just get one of those bendy-bar kind. Just realize that it's accurate to within, oh, 30% or so."
Not necessarily true, the modulus of the metal never changes therefore they inherently retain their calibration unless abused.
They were the only type used in some aerospace manufacturing until the click type was proven.
I use the 3/8" Craftsmen beam type to calibrate my clickers before using them.
Their biggest drawback is being able to see the scale when torquing fasteners in awkward positions and spaces.
FWIW, https://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm
Not necessarily true, the modulus of the metal never changes therefore they inherently retain their calibration unless abused.
They were the only type used in some aerospace manufacturing until the click type was proven.
I use the 3/8" Craftsmen beam type to calibrate my clickers before using them.
Their biggest drawback is being able to see the scale when torquing fasteners in awkward positions and spaces.
FWIW, https://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm
SockMonkey
Makin' Some Noise
I purchased quite few tools (including a pair of calibrated SK torque wrenches - foot lbs & inch lbs) from this outfit: National Tool Warehouse Very good prices and exceptionally fast shipping.
Knifemaker
Not me
I've been using my inexpensive Craftsman "Beam" type wrench for about 30 years and have not had any problems with it or ever stripped a thread.
It came in a box with a form fitted styrofoam insert. I just glued the insert to the side of my work bench and always store it there when not using it.
"If you take care of your tools they take care of you"
(my Dad's saying)
Knifemaker
It came in a box with a form fitted styrofoam insert. I just glued the insert to the side of my work bench and always store it there when not using it.
"If you take care of your tools they take care of you"
(my Dad's saying)
Knifemaker
Bluegrass FJR
Well-known member
Harbor Freight
You said you wanted cheap.
You said you wanted cheap.
PTINSTRUCTOR
Well-known member
[SIZE=18pt]SEE BELOW[/SIZE] :dribble:
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PTINSTRUCTOR
Well-known member
(I hate it when I do this.......)
I have both Sears and the Harbor Freight. I was afraid the Harbor Freight wrench was too cheap. However, I checked it against the Sears wrench and it seems to be just about spot on. Depends what you are using it on. But THEY ARE INEXPENSIVE!!! CLICK HERE
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BobG
Well-known member
I have 4 different torque wrenches I bought from harbor freight, and one really expensive one I have had for years. I calibrated the old one myself when I work PMEL.
I don't have more than $50, in the cheap ones. I just bought them on sale. A 1/4", 3/8", and two 1/2" drives. I keep a 1/2" in the truck for the dirt bike axles.
I compare it to the calibrated one periodically, and the cheap ones aren't bad. If one goes to far out of tolerance I just toss it. That hasn't happened yet.
I also like to use the torque wrenches in the middle of the scales where they are more accurate.
Bob
I don't have more than $50, in the cheap ones. I just bought them on sale. A 1/4", 3/8", and two 1/2" drives. I keep a 1/2" in the truck for the dirt bike axles.
I compare it to the calibrated one periodically, and the cheap ones aren't bad. If one goes to far out of tolerance I just toss it. That hasn't happened yet.
I also like to use the torque wrenches in the middle of the scales where they are more accurate.
Bob
keithaba
Well-known member
FJRski_2007
Well-known member
Is there a way to calibrate the clicker type of wrench? and how do you do it?
FJRski_2007
Well-known member
I like the one you send me, but spark plugs require 9LB or 8LB and this wrench starts with 10LB, do you think it will matter if I'm 1-2 LB over?
There is a way to calibrate a click type torque wrench, but I doubt many people have the equipment to do it at home. It's usually best to have it done professionally.
One really creative way I've seen a buddy do it was to have a 12" beam (for ft lb tq wrenches) with either a 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2" fitting welded to the end (to fit on the wrench). What this guy did was clamp the wrench on its side and dial a series of torque settings into the wrench. At each setting he would hang weight from the end of the beam equal to the wrench setting. Then he would gradually add 1 lb weights until the wrench clicked and compare the weight reading with what was hanging from the beam. He would then adjust the calibration screw on the wrench if necessary.
All of my torque wrenches are Snap-On. They are a bit expensive but, given the service you get with the company, well worth the price. I get all of them calibrated once a year.
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