Why can't I shift this thing right

[black mamba]

It's not like I'm new to riding bikes......been doing so for over 40 years. Rode mostly dirt bikes when younger and crusiers on the street after that. I've never had a bike I couldn't shift smoothly until I got my '05 FJR. It is frustating because I love the bike so much in all other regards. It has gotten a little better lately as I've employed a few different techniques....different for me, anyway. I now tend to shift quicker and let off the throttle a lot less than I used to. I'll even throw in a little "pre-loading" of the shift lever now and then. But, all in all, I still find the whole procedure less natural than I've been used to all these years. Anybody got any advice for an old dog trying to improve his riding?

 

[ahamlin01]

I found that adjusting the dial on the shifter and the brake lever to 3 rather than the factory default (which I think might be set at 2) helped me to shift easier. I don't know if that will help, but at least adjusting the levers for your hand size makes it more comfortable for general riding. See the instructions in the user manual - just pull the lever out away from the handlebar and turn the dial - it sets the space to different sizes.

Allen

Hope it helps a little.

 

[Pepperell]

This bike doesn't like you to dawdle over shifting; faster is better, a little preload with the toe works well. I noticed that running it at about 500 rpms higher than

what "feels right" expedites things nicely.

Pepperell

 

[FJRocket]

That's wierd, mine shifts as normal as anything I've ever ridden. I think there have been some other posts in this regard. Perhaps a search in the TECH area might give some ideas.

 

[RadioHowie]

I felt exactly the same as you the first couple of weeks I owned my FJR...something just didn't feel "right".

For me, it was not clutch lever adjustment, it was a gear lever adjustment. I found for my 34" inseam and size 13EE feet that my toe was pointed down more than it was forward, so adjusting the shift lever lower let me get good contact with the lever without having to lift my toe as much, which had a very unnatural feeling. Not only did it give me a more positive feel, it was sooo much easier to pre-load the shifter since I didn't have to "stretch" my foot up to make the shift.

Try what ahamlin01 suggested first, i.e., adjusting your clutch lever, 'cause it's quick and easy. Adjusting the shift lever is a little more involved.

 

[radman]

It is technique and rpms, and a little bit oil choice. Heavier oil works better (15-50 or 20-40, as opposed to 10-40 or 5-40). Mostly it's technique. As soon as the clutch lever pull is initiated, shift, so that the gears are unloaded as the shift begins. The clutch disconnect is partly to assist that, partly to be sure you've lifted off the throttle. Higher rpm's will always be smoother, shift below 3000 and the shift roughens. However, practice the tip above, and you'll soon make absolutely noisless shifts every time, guaranteed.

 

[petey]

There are guys that replaced the shift arm with an 2001 R1 shift arm, wich is shorter and makes shifting gears quicker.

 

[madmike2]

+1 on being RPM sensitive. Around 4,000 works better than 2500-3000. Also shifting positively rather than waiting and shifting slowly.

Your FJR is just having trouble teaching you to do what it wants!

 

[radman]

There are guys that replaced the shift arm with an 2001 R1 shift arm, wich is shorter and makes shifting gears quicker.

I use the R1 arm, between that and the other things I mentioned, it can damn near sound like an automatic.

 

[BBIII]

When the '06 AE models were announced there was a thread about clutchless shifting (like when the clutch cable breaks). I spent about 500 miles torture testing my FJR transmission and now I can shift into any gear (within that gears speed band) without the clutch, it's all about RPM's. This taught me valuable lessons on how to ride the FJR and how shift properly, effortlessly and without any unwanted jerkyness.

 

[Penforhire]

I agree my FJR has very "notchy" shifting compared to everything I've owned except a BMW oilhead. The OEM oil breaks down very gradually and I noticed a huge improvement at each oil change. I switched to Mobil One gold cap at the last change and it is not quite as slick-shifting as the OEM oil. But maybe the feeling won't change? Maybe I need to add STP treatment but I'm not happy with the plain Mobil One feel.

 

[BBIII]

I agree my FJR has very "notchy" shifting compared to everything I've owned except a BMW oilhead. The OEM oil breaks down very gradually and I noticed a huge improvement at each oil change. I switched to Mobil One gold cap at the last change and it is not quite as slick-shifting as the OEM oil. But maybe the feeling won't change? Maybe I need to add STP treatment but I'm not happy with the plain Mobil One feel.

Uh Oh, first it was RM suggesting it and now we seem to teeter very close to the destiny of the dreaded Never Ending Pointless Reocurring (NEPR) Oil thread... <_<

 

[FJRMGM]

get the R1 shift linkage from Arizona Motorsports and your shifting issues will be a thing of the past.

It's one of the best mods I made to the FJR if not the best.

You can always find out the current status of your order by going to

R1 linkage

Name Code Qty Each Options

--------------------------------------------------------------------

R1 2001 Shift Arm 5JJ-18112-00-00 1 24.86

(Will ship in 2-3 days)

Subtotal 24.86

Shipping 8.95

Tax 0.00

Total 33.81

 

[jaybird]

Also took a bit getting used to, coming from a cruiser -- agree that shifiting at higher rpms, and doing it quickly (almost half clutch lever pulled in) and it is unbelievably smooth. Still getting some "crunches" slipping into 1st -- its wierd; sometimes its no big thing, and then sometimes the folks in the car next to me all look around (as if they expect part of the tranny to be laying on the ground.....) Try shifting "higher and faster" before going to other mods. My 2cents. Jay

 

[BrunDog]

Shift FAST!

To make the bike shift smoothly (and I don't believe the RPM matters), shift as quickly as you can. Squeeze roll-off shift release roll-on: all in one sequential step, not individual steps. Blip the throttle off only a little - nothing too dramatic.

If the lever position is no good, you can adjust it, but it won't affect your smoothness too much unless it is totally worng causing you to be working too hard to make the shift.

But it is the technique that will give you the smooth-*** snick snick shifts you desire.

-BD

 

[radman]

I agree my FJR has very "notchy" shifting compared to everything I've owned except a BMW oilhead.  The OEM oil breaks down very gradually and I noticed a huge improvement at each oil change.  I switched to Mobil One gold cap at the last change and it is not quite as slick-shifting as the OEM oil.  But maybe the feeling won't change?  Maybe I need to add STP treatment but I'm not happy with the plain Mobil One feel.

Uh Oh, first it was RM suggesting it and now we seem to teeter very close to the destiny of the dreaded Never Ending Pointless Reocurring (NEPR) Oil thread... <_<

No, there was a difference when I changed from M1 15w-50 to M15w-40. The heavier lube is more tranny friendly.

 

[twowheelnut]

Oil schmoil, higher RPM's schmemenems! This is just one loud-*** tranny. Clunkiest one I've yet to own (or ride for that matter). Now I just turn up the volume on the SatRad or MP3...

 

[tripletango]

Yeh it is a bit clunky especially selecting first from neutral at a stop. I also have a little trouble with the 2nd to 3rd shift. Seems like you really have to let the shifter return to the beginning of it's movement or you select nothing when you move your foot up and have to take a second stab at it.

No problems with any down shift though.

 

[FastJoyRide]

+1 on synthetic oil and technique. Why would you ever shift this tranny below 4,000 rpm anyway - to be in a funeral cavalcade?

Lots of us old dogs have taken a little time to perfect our FJR shifting, but it's now as smooth for me as on any bike I've ever ridden. Suspect a few miles and working off some (microscopically) rough edges on the gear teeth doesn't hurt either).