Wilbers vs. Ohlins

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GunMD

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I'm planning to purchase a rear shock and front springs for my 2005 non-abs FJR. I'm looking at the Wilbers and the Ohlins. Can anyone speak intelligently as to the pros and cons of each (specifically as they relate to the FJR...I could care less how the Ohlins you put on your GSXR track bike feels).

 
I'll be installing a Penske 8981 once Penske builds it and runs it on the shock dyno.

I have one on my Bandit 1200. I have no experience with Ohlins or Wilbers, but I imagine all three are very close in performance, and that is to say...amazing.

 
I was going to go with Works because they are local but got in on the GB on the Wilbers.

I haven't heard of any problems with any of the name brands, I'd say compair price, time to get it and support.

 
I think any aftermarket shock will be an improvement over the stocker. I'm quite happy with my Wilburs shock right now, but wouldn't hesitate to install an Ohlins or Penske shock on my bikes. I think unless your going to be road racing, doing serious track days, or other such things that will really be taxing your suspension you'll be fine with any of them. So in short, get what gives you a warm fuzzy feeling at the end of the day.

From what I understand, all three of them are built to order shocks (or can be) if that's a concern of yours.

Right now I'm looking at new suspension for my CBR954 and I'm looking at Ohlins front springs and a Penske rear shock. I would like Ohlins all around, but the shock is $300 more, and I dont know if I can justify if for the sake of saying I have a full Ohlins suspension system

 
From what I have been told, Works uses bits that are little more mainstream (aka" "older tech") than Ohlins and that's what drives the price difference. Both are rebuildable. Both are a big improvement over OEM. Each Ohlin rebuild would be about the cost of a new Works shock. Do you use an Ohlin's worth of suspension or will a Works (or Wilbers) worth work for you?

I know what my answer was. I was looking at the Works when the Wilbers GB came along. In my guestimation it would be

OEM

Works

Wilbers

Ohlins

in both price and performance (with a huge gap between OEM and Works and smaller gaps betwen each of the others). But I know I'm not going to use the extra 10% performance improvement that draws the 80% (+?) price hike that the Ohlins cost. Even if I could, would I on the street? Should I even try outside of a closed course?

 
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If I remember correctly Wilber and Ohlin are the only shocks with remote preload adjustments. That said I'm TOTALLY happy with my Wilber 640. Made a big difference on my FJR. And saving over $300 didn't hurt. :D

Tom

 
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Completely thrilled with my Wilbers. As bounce stated, I don't think I could access the extra performance provided by the pricier rigs - if indeed there is any at all.

 
OK...It's done. I just got off the phone w/ Klaus at Wilbers. Model 641 shock w/ optional 625 remote preload adjuster, and the progressive fork springs. They should ship the end of July. Now, how to get them installed and dialed in before my Aug 12th run to Denver.

 
OK...It's done. I just got off the phone w/ Klaus at Wilbers. Model 641 shock w/ optional 625 remote preload adjuster, and the progressive fork springs. They should ship the end of July. Now, how to get them installed and dialed in before my Aug 12th run to Denver.
You'll get 'em installed for sure, but the tweaking will take a bit of time. Bring your 17 mm wrench and a flat blade screw driver for adjustments on the way to Denver. I find that very minor adjustments make huge handling changes, especially with the front end.

 
OK...It's done. I just got off the phone w/ Klaus at Wilbers. Model 641 shock w/ optional 625 remote preload adjuster, and the progressive fork springs. They should ship the end of July. Now, how to get them installed and dialed in before my Aug 12th run to Denver.
You'll get 'em installed for sure, but the tweaking will take a bit of time. Bring your 17 mm wrench and a flat blade screw driver for adjustments on the way to Denver. I find that very minor adjustments make huge handling changes, especially with the front end.

Just for reference, where are your setting at on the front? Preload, how many rings turned, how many clicks or the knobs and how many turns at the bottom?

Just interested in others settings. Mike

 
Ooooh, I can't remember! Let me get home and I'll post later...

Edit: Alrighty then, pre-load is set to 2.5 rings showing. Dampening is 12 clicks from full out. Compression is 14 clicks from full out. Dems da forks. The shock is set at 19 clicks from full out on the spring and pre-load is set at 14 from full out. The shock is pretty close to where I want it. The forks are very close - still a little more work to do.

 
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In case you are interested, my setting for my Wilbers setup (front springs and 640 rear shock) are as follows:

Front springs were set back to factory settings and moved from there.

I'm now at preload at 3rd ring, compression at 10 clicks from full hard, rebound at one click harder than factory.

Rear shock rebound is 12 clicks from full hard and remote preload is a work in progress.

I'm 240 lbs. with gear on and most of the time my wife rides with me Best setting on preload for that is 12 clicks harder. She is 150 lbs. in gear. Hope this helps.

Tom

 
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