Wilbur's Fork Springs Install Question

[TahoeBound]

Question:

I'm in the middle of the Wilbur's fork install, installing the new springs, but I can't get to the dampening rod's threaded end as the springs are AT LEAST an inch longer than the stock. The threaded end comes up just to the top of the long spacer! Is it necessary to compress the spring in order to reinstall the longer spacer and nut? Or did he send me the wrong parts?

Thanks in advance.

 

[MCRIDER007]

The threaded end comes up just to the top of the long spacer!  Is it necessary to compress the spring in order to reinstall the longer spacer and nut?  Or did he send me the wrong parts?

The problem you may be having is that the damping rod is dropping as you are installing the spacer. Try measuring the length of the damping rod above the fork spring before you install the spacer. If there is enough length then you are going to have a find a way to hold the damping rod in position as you drop the spacer so you can put the nut on the threaded end. I just used my finger in the fork tube to hold the damping rod as low as possible, quickly pushed the spacer down, and grabbed the threaded end with my other hand.

 

[TahoeBound]

Yeah, I have a magnetic pick which holds the rod in place. I've measured the springs (stock vs Wilburs) right next to each other. I'm concerned the Wilbur's is so much longer. In fact, its extra length is about the same length as the threaded rod. Very discouraging as it doesn't seem right and Wilbur's is on the East coast. Oh well.

 

[MCRIDER007]

Yeah, I have a magnetic pick which holds the rod in place.  I've measured the springs (stock vs Wilburs) right next to each other.  I'm concerned the Wilbur's is so much longer.  In fact, its extra length is about the same length as the threaded rod. 

It sounds like the fit is pretty close and you only need to compress the spring about an inch. I would make a spacer out of some one inch PVC pipe and use that to compress the spring while installing the nut on the threaded end.

 

[twowheelnut]

Are your forks fully extended? You will find that the springs are indeed longer, that you don't cut the spacer tube and that you will have to compress the springs a bit to screw the fork cap back in. Also make sure your preload and compression adjustusters are backed all the way out. And make sure you seat the cap properly so as not to cross-thread it - a new one is 60 bucks.

PM me if you wanna talk via phone.

 

[TahoeBound]

All my adjustments are backed full out. It looks unanimous to compress the springs so that's what I'll do. I hate when aftermarket things don't go back together like OEM. If it works better though...

Time to get on with my Sunday. Thanks for the quick responses, it is much appreciated.

 

[SkooterG]

The NUT was spot on. We just did this a couple weeks ago. Yes, you just need to overcome the additional Wilbers length by compressing the springs by really pushing down on that nut to get to the threads.

Yes, the Wilbers springs are a bit longer. But you will find they will transform the handling of your FJR's front end in a very positive way.

Now off I go to install the Spiegler clutch line.

 

[SmokeWagon]

I also just did install of springs. I tipped fork as much as possible to side without new oil spilling and after sliding on spacer, pushed down on washer to reveal threaded rod. Only had to move it 1/4 inch to get nut started. and only had to make 5-10 attempts each fork to get it . You will start talking to yourself . (used 7.5 wt. found at BMW shop ) What a difference the springs make.

 

[Colin24]

I'm just starting on the fork spring install myself. But my problem is just getting the fork caps off!

I had to go buy a deep 24mm socket to get the caps off. Of course having done fork springs on other bikes I knew I should loosen the caps _before_ I remove the fork tubes from the tripple tree. So I go out the wrench and socket and went to loosen the caps.

Holey Crap are they on tight! I had the big ass torque wrench out and had to really apply some serious force to get the caps to turn. There is _NO_ way I could have done this with the fork tubes off the bike. And even once I cracked it and got it moving. It still took alot of force to keep moving. (I thought maybe once I cracked it loose it would be easier to turn, no dice)

Now this just does not seem right. I know there will be some drag because of the fork spring, but this is ridiculous. My only guess is that I need to back off the preload. Which I thought I had done.

So my question is this. How do I "adjust" the suspension before I perform the removal? The factory service manual doesn't seem to say much. Just "remove caps".

There are two adjustments on the front fork. The little knob that you twiddle by hand and the one you use a 15mm (I think) wrench on. As I understand it the knob that controls damping should make little difference during removal.

The wrench adjust item is the preload. As you turn it the shaft comes up out of the fork tube and has little lines on it so you know how far you've moved it up. I have adjusted mine so they are as high up as possible. (All the tick marks are visible). Is this correct? Or should I have actually turned the preload so that this little shaft is all the way in?

I am certainly hoping I am doing something wrong at the moment because I don't know how I will ever reassemble the forks if the caps are this tight!

- Colin

 

[ionbeam]

This may be silly to ask --but-- did you loosen the top pinch bolt on the 'tree before you tried to loosen the nut?

 

[radman]

This may be silly to ask --but-- did you loosen the top pinch bolt on the 'tree before you tried to loosen the nut?

My thought too, as he doesn't mention this step in the description. I impact mine, on the bike or off it's instant. Much easier on the nuts, mine and it's. I realize not all have this option however.

 

[Colin24]

This may be silly to ask --but-- did you loosen the top pinch bolt on the 'tree before you tried to loosen the nut?

Actually, no I didn't. I use the fact that it's still held in the tripple tree so that the fork tube won't spin. And once its out of the bike there is way to grip the fork tube easily while your getting a wrench on the top. On my old bike, this was never a problem. I would leave the top clamp tight when I put a wrench on the cap and it would loosen quite easily.

I didn't think this would be an issue as the nut is (as I thought) inside the tube. But I guess it is possible. Like I said, the old bike I never had a problem with this approach. But obviously this is a way newer bike so I think this may be it. When I get home I will loosen the top clamp and then see if it turns easier.

- Colin

 

[radman]

This may be silly to ask --but-- did you loosen the top pinch bolt on the 'tree before you tried to loosen the nut?

Actually, no I didn't. I use the fact that it's still held in the tripple tree so that the fork tube won't spin. And once its out of the bike there is way to grip the fork tube easily while your getting a wrench on the top. On my old bike, this was never a problem. I would leave the top clamp tight when I put a wrench on the cap and it would loosen quite easily.

I didn't think this would be an issue as the nut is (as I thought) inside the tube. But I guess it is possible. Like I said, the old bike I never had a problem with this approach. But obviously this is a way newer bike so I think this may be it. When I get home I will loosen the top clamp and then see if it turns easier.

- Colin

Ahhh, the, um, lower tree performs the clamp function just fine. The upper tree will indeed make the plug virtually impossible to remove, as this is one of it's functions.

 

[TahoeBound]

Yep. Good info all. I followed 3 sets of instructions:

fjr owners

fjr tech and Wilbur's.

Wilbur's instructions were worthless & I'm not impressed with the distributor - I will be going elsewhere for the rear shock (eg. probably someone who carries Ohlins).

In the end those here provided the finishing details.

Lastly, I got her all buttoned up & back on the road. There is an improvement from the worn OEM, but not a huge difference IMO. It is a firmer ride yet more compliant at the same time. Noticeable, but not night vs day. I've only been able to test it down the highway though & not the backcountry twisties. I went with 10 wt, shouldv'e tried the recommended 7.5 wt, but short on choices at 3 local dealers.

Rear replacement soon!