Will a 08 motor bolt into a 04 readily?

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animalrooster41

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My son has been riding my 06 FJR and has decided he wants one. We found a 04 FJR with 70k on it from the original owner who has never dropped it. He forgot to get his valve adj done and it dropped a cylinder. In any case he only wants $1200 for it (includes manual & hard bags). He said he noticed it was getting worse milage and was down on power so he took it to the dealer. That's when they told him it needed a head and valves as it had been running on 3 cylinders! That same week the guy loses his job and has to sell it off. He is throwing in a riding jacket, taller wind screen, 2 new pilot tires, a corbin seat, and a lot of other misc stuff. My question is this: will a 08 motor be a good choice from ebay or should I stick with a first gen original ticker motor? At 70k we thought we would just replace the whole motor. My dealer says $650 and he will do the job. Motors are running about $600-$1100 off ebay. Is there any place else to look at motors? What do ya think?

 
animal,

I don't think the '08 motor will work, it would be nice if it does.

I think the best thing to do is take the Old Motor out and rebuild it... it would probably be about the same cost.

Then you know it will work without the costly trial and error.

Good Luck.

 
I swapped an '05 into my '04 by myself. It's not that hard. The wire and hose routing is the pain in the butt that takes all the time. You need a chain hoist or 4 guys to lift the frame off the engine though. And it's kinda fun to line up the motor mounts again.

The '08 should fit, but I don't think it's been done before. The '04 wiring harness will need to be used still, as fans and other items are different on the '08 set up. AFAIK, nothing is different on the motor that would prevent this. The question is do the motor mount locations match? I know the outside plastic is different between Gens, which means frame holes for that are different. That alone wouldn't matter.

 
Although I believe that the basic physical engine is the same, the Gen-II does have a different curved radiator. May not matter though

 
animal,
I don't think the '08 motor will work, it would be nice if it does.

I think the best thing to do is take the Old Motor out and rebuild it... it would probably be about the same cost.

Then you know it will work without the costly trial and error.

Good Luck.

I too think this is your best route. Rebuild the top end and what the hell over bore the cylinders just a bit and put some bigger jugs in. That way you will know everything is tip-top.

 
I vote for a rebuilt too, since you're already taking it down enough to do that you'll know for sure what you're having done or putting back in vs. a used motor.

-MD

 
Funny. Just today I spoke with my 'guru' mechanic who told me a story about such an 04 FJR. One cylinder totally gone, one 75%, and one 50%, and owner had done no valve adjustments in 60-70k or so. Told me the valve guides were TOTALLY gone, and had worn their seats so much that the head was a total loss. Said one cylinder's valves were blow-torched worse than he had ever seen. Said the owner had used car oil too.

And peeps around here think that valve adjustments aren't all that necessary.

Bet the FJR you are talking about is the same one I heard about today. My guru offered to rebuild it, or put another engine in it, but I guess the guy couldn't afford it. I think he said a rebuild would be around $4500 (including having to get a brand new head) so he though the engine swap would be more economical. That's what I would do.

You in Arizona by any chance?

BTW, on a completely off-topic note, my guru can't replace my weeping seal on my final drive. The young tech that replaced it at 110k 2 years ago butchered the coupler nut installation so badly that he will have to destroy the nut to get it off. Needs a new nut, and that will take a week. I leave for the Iron Butt Rally in 5 days.

Lucky for me, I have a 2nd FJR that I can swap final drives with. A PITA that just put me two days behind in my limited time to get my **** in my sock, but at I'll get there.

Why is it so hard to find competent mechanics?

 
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animal,
I don't think the '08 motor will work, it would be nice if it does.

I think the best thing to do is take the Old Motor out and rebuild it... it would probably be about the same cost.

Then you know it will work without the costly trial and error.

Good Luck.

I too think this is your best route. Rebuild the top end and what the hell over bore the cylinders just a bit and put some bigger jugs in. That way you will know everything is tip-top.
Rebuilding the head is a good thing but make sure the bores are good first. Thr FJR uses a ceramic composite cylinder that isn't able to be bored and the cylinders are one piece with the case.

 
Funny. Just today I spoke with my 'guru' mechanic who told me a story about such an 04 FJR. One cylinder totally gone, one 75%, and one 50%, and owner had done no valve adjustments in 60-70k or so. Told me the valve guides were TOTALLY gone, and had worn their seats so much that the head was a total loss. Said one cylinder's valves were blow-torched worse than he had ever seen. Said the owner had used car oil too.
And peeps around here think that valve adjustments aren't all that necessary.

Bet the FJR you are talking about is the same one I heard about today. My guru offered to rebuild it, or put another engine in it, but I guess the guy couldn't afford it. I think he said a rebuild would be around $4500 (including having to get a brand new head) so he though the engine swap would be more economical. That's what I would do.

You in Arizona by any chance?

BTW, on a completely off-topic note, my guru can't replace my weeping seal on my final drive. The young tech that replaced it at 110k 2 years ago butchered the coupler nut installation so badly that he will have to destroy the nut to get it off. Needs a new nut, and that will take a week. I leave for the Iron Butt Rally in 5 days.

Lucky for me, I have a 2nd FJR that I can swap final drives with. A PITA that just put me two days behind in my limited time to get my **** in my sock, but at I'll get there.

Why is it so hard to find competent mechanics?
If you were closer I would be glad to swap it out just cause I'm such a nice person. :rolleyes:

 
BTW, on a completely off-topic note, my guru can't replace my weeping seal on my final drive. The young tech that replaced it at 110k 2 years ago butchered the coupler nut installation so badly that he will have to destroy the nut to get it off. Needs a new nut, and that will take a week. I leave for the Iron Butt Rally in 5 days.
None of really care that you are having anal leakage issues and that your one nut is not right. TMI Skoot...

Just sayin.

 
Skooterg, small world! This guy is from Casa Grande AZ! Gotta be the same bike. He is driving it up to Flagstaff on Fri for us to pick it up (meeting us half way, way cool). I think we still got a O.K. deal, What do ya think? I think we will pick a first gen motor from ebay and just go that route. We are hopeing to be all said and done(fixed) for around $3000. That's $1200 for purchase of bike, $900 for a low mile first gen motor, $650 to install, $250 gas, eats, hotel as we are driving from Salt Lake City. Ofcourse things never go as we plan always, so maybe $3500 total. Still not too bad. :rolleyes:

 
Ray beat me to it. You're NOT going to save money rebuilding a motor compared to buying a used one in the FJR's case. Partly because everything costs more for a motorcycle engine, no one does these all the time, so plan on it being the first one your shop(s) ever saw, and top it off with the ceramic bores not being re-hone-able. They might be fine.... or not. I was quoted $1200 just for a head rebuild, never mind the motor re-ring.

 
Skooterg, small world! This guy is from Casa Grande AZ! Gotta be the same bike. He is driving it up to Flagstaff on Fri for us to pick it up (meeting us half way, way cool). I think we still got a O.K. deal, What do ya think? I think we will pick a first gen motor from ebay and just go that route. We are hopeing to be all said and done(fixed) for around $3000. That's $1200 for purchase of bike, $900 for a low mile first gen motor, $650 to install, $250 gas, eats, hotel as we are driving from Salt Lake City. Ofcourse things never go as we plan always, so maybe $3500 total. Still not too bad. :rolleyes:
Yeah, my guru is in Casa Grande. Small mom & pop Yamaha dealer. Just the two of them (he and his wife) working there.

BTW, he said there was a ton of dirt inside the airbox, and owner was using a K&N filter I believe, or possibly some other aftermarket.

 
Gen I vs Gen II - The Gen II has different gearing, you would have to cobble a VSS sensor onto the Gen II engine, the cooling system hookups may be in different locations, the engine mounts and plastic mounts *may* be different. You would have to carefully study these items and see if may cause problems. Most other Gen changes are external to the engine.

In a previous thread I've outlined some of the issues with buying a used engine and the important tests and info you need. The biggest risk is that in most cases you don't know the engine's history and it may be no better than the one being replaced. I'll see if I can dig up the thread later today.

The advantage to repairing an engine out of your own motorcycle is that you know the history and condition of the engine which is worth a lot. In this case you already know that your engine was neglected and may have additional serious problems. In this case it does indeed make sense to take the less costly route and buy a used engine.

I can attest that at full cost it would be ~$4,500 to go through the whole engine and then put on a new cylinder head.

 
QUOTE (NightShine @ Aug 13 2009, 12:34 PM) QUOTE (ionbeam @ Aug 13 2009, 08:32 AM) ... Most other Gen changes are external to the engine.

For example, the 2nd Gen engines do not have a fuel return line to the gas tank...

Virtually all professionally sold salvage engines will be at some level of 'bare'. animal' would be using the FI system off of his Gen I's nuked engine so the FI would match the Gen I harness & FI connections.

This is one of the cautions about buying a used engine, they all come missing various parts. I was offered engines that were missing starters, clutches, stators, missing all the engine covers and in one case even missing the engine block! When buying a 'bare' engine have them spell out in detail what is and isn't included and take nothing for granted. Professional salvage will typically ship only to a shipping dock in your area, not your house. You would have to make the arrangements, then go pick up the engine after it is delivered.

If you buy a private sale engine, the engine is more likely to come with all the peripheral parts. In trade, you get no warranty and you are at the mercy of the honesty of the seller.

A bunch of stuff from previous posts not really formatted, just presented:

Buying salvage engines post.

• Expect that it could take months and months to find an engine, you may get lucky but don't plan on it.

• If you find an engine, first thing is to get the VIN from the donor bike, the deal may stop right here

• Get copy(s) of any titles, salvage titles and/or insurance settlement paperwork because they will provide a good indication of the actual number of miles on the engine and will help with registration and sales later

• When they say the engine is bare or complete, get an explicit listing of what is and isn't coming with the engine 'cause there is no industry standard on what a 'bare' or 'complete' engine includes.

• If the engine is guaranteed, find out how that may be affected by the delay in assembly and the time to when the bike is actually being ridden.

• Ask if they are the direct seller or broker

• Get the name of the business owner and his phone number early in the deal, if the engine is being brokered, get the name and contact info for the actual seller, this way you have the contact info you will need should you have to move up the chain because of problems

• Ask if the engine has actually run since the accident, ask about damage, ask how it has been stored, ask how long it has been stored.

• Have the seller look in the exhaust ports for oil (don't tell them why you are asking for this check, and give them incentive to ignore a little wetness). (This is a Ticker test, per Yamaha)

• Once the engine arrives do a thorough inspection, verify the engine rotates smoothly, then do a cylinder leak-down test; passing this, do a valve adjustment

================

I've been looking for a used engine for my FJR and found a good deal on one from South Park Cycle. I have had good dialog with Leon for about a week resulting in the purchase of a '04 engine with <10k miles that they shipped yesterday. I had asked for the VIN of the donor motorcycle and they just supplied that as well as some other info I wanted. I'm still waiting for a document that should spell out the actual mileage of the motorcycle when it was totaled.

The VIN they supplied is: JYARP07Y33A000146 which I decode as being a CA 2003 engine that was probably one of the first ones delivered to the US Can someone make me feel a little better and verify that this could be a '04 model VIN?

The thing that got me going was when I checked my '04 VIN and the 10th digit is a 4 indicating a '04 model, in spite of it being delivered in '03.

=================

It is pretty much a certainty that the engine South Park Cycle sold as a '04 is actually a '03. I hope to get a copy of the salvage paperwork that should sort out the model year and engine mileage. Edited to add, this motor was indeed a '03 and in spite of being assured that it had been run and was in excellent condition it miserably failed a compression test and leak-down test. The leak-down test showed that it was leaking past the valves. I already had an engine that was doing that. The engine was returned under warranty.

 
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Towards the end of summer is usually the best time to find wrecked bikes at the auction houses. They often list online which bikes are being sold beforehand. This way you bypass the middleman on e-Bay, get all the parts and maybe even know the mileage if you can turn on the ignition.

 
Skooterg, small world! This guy is from Casa Grande AZ! Gotta be the same bike. He is driving it up to Flagstaff on Fri for us to pick it up (meeting us half way, way cool). I think we still got a O.K. deal, What do ya think? I think we will pick a first gen motor from ebay and just go that route. We are hopeing to be all said and done(fixed) for around $3000. That's $1200 for purchase of bike, $900 for a low mile first gen motor, $650 to install, $250 gas, eats, hotel as we are driving from Salt Lake City. Ofcourse things never go as we plan always, so maybe $3500 total. Still not too bad. :rolleyes:
Yeah, my guru is in Casa Grande. Small mom & pop Yamaha dealer. Just the two of them (he and his wife) working there.

BTW, he said there was a ton of dirt inside the airbox, and owner was using a K&N filter I believe, or possibly some other aftermarket.
animalrooster41: This world gets even smaller! I took Greg's FJR Final Drive down to Kendall, who is "THE MECHANIC" for SkooterG, vectervp1 (Art Montoya), and I; stood by while Kendall disassembled Skoot's unit-NO, his final drive, you pervs!!!

Kendall talked at great length about this FJR you are buying. Every one to his own: But I thought it odd this owner never had the valves adjusted, ever. He also insisted on using car oil only and the air filter was K & N. I also dislike K & N filters.

Ionbeam's an excellent mechanic and his estimate is right on the mark! Kendall had also proposed $4,500 for motor rebuild

If this FJR is in great physical shape, other than the engine, I agree that you are getting a really great deal buying at $1,200

I don't know if I'll outlive Miss Lucy Liu (I ride with Skoot), my 2003; but if I do, I plan on having Kendall rebuild her motor.

Note: Greg and I had an eye opening conversation with Kendall regarding Rotella Diesel Oil for our FJR's. Now that low-sulphur diesels are the norm, which is the case with my Volvo Diesel powered Jeep Liberty SUV, the Rotella in stores such as Wal-Mart no longer have the necessary additives for use in our FJR's. After talking to Kendall, Golden Spectro for Lucy L!

 
I'd be willing to bet that between the two engines, and some transferring of ancillary components, the 08 motor will fit just fine.

 
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