Wiring Solteks

[dcarver]

Attempting to draw a schematic for Ivan, my tech, at Hidden Power Cycle Clinic, to use and follow.

The goals are:

1. Retain the AutoSwitch

2. Provide an independent circuit should the AutoSwitch or OEM headlight circuit fail.

Background - I'm using a DPDT switch although it looks like I could use some other configuration. Here's what I'm thinking -

Open position, Solteks never light

Using the AutoSwitch circuit

Using the DPDT switch circuit

??? for the fart smellers, err, uh, Smart Fellers..

1. Will it work as shown?

2. Is there a better way, cleaner?

3. It looks like I don't really need a DPDT switch. Would a SPDT work better, e.g. no 'empty terminals'?

4. Thoughts, comments?

Thanks in Advance - dcarver

 

[johnny80s]

Is there a reason you don't just give them their own switch? Not saying its good or bad the way you have done it.

 

[CAJW]

Don, Check your email for a diagram.

 

[dcarver]

Email sent back with my addie - dcarver

Thanks!

 

[wfooshee]

If you go ask for a DPDT switch, it won't have an "open" position, it'll be one side or the other. You need to make sure you get something with "center-off."

I added the bike's hi/lo relay, just to point out that the hi-lo switch does not connect directly to the headlight bulb:

I don't see a fuse on the 12-volt line to the Solteks, so I'll assume you picked up that line in the wrong place on your drawing. I put one in. I also changed the connection of the DPDT switch on the "manual" side. Your way trades one relay for another. How is that better? My way, the lights turn on, period, unless the fuse is blown, something's disconnected, or they're burnt out. You still have the center-off to shut them off, and the "normal" position uses your auto-relay. I didn't bother following your blue/red/purple code, either.

EDIT: Downside is someone can walk to your bike, turn the lights on, and walk away. Trade off of convenience for reliability. In your previous thread, it was suggested that you have a way to "FORCE" the lights on without having to rely on some circuit or component or another to trigger them, and I assume that's what you're trying to do. Your auto-relay is convenient and works, but hooking up your manual switch through another relay doesn't improve anything conceptually. Sure, if the auto-relay fails maybe the other one didn't and your switch still works. In my diagram, the switch is the ONLY component in the circuit, and the lights WILL work when you flip it to the manual side.

 

[HYCLE]

Hi Don, I would add the power relay to a position just before the soleteks. This would reduce the current across the switches.

 

[CAJW]

Email sent back with my addie - dcarverThanks!

Don,

This gave me an excuse to clean up my schematic. Email didn't show up, must be kink in pipeline so here it is. This has served me well for over two years, HTH.

JW

 

[HYCLE]

Email sent back with my addie - dcarverThanks!

Don,

This gave me an excuse to clean up my schematic. Email didn't show up, must be kink in pipeline so here it is. This has served me well for over two years, HTH.

JW

I looked at the Autoswitch website and found the wiring diagram for the Autoswitch. installation instructions for autoswitch

It shows the Autoswitch has a max. current rating of 200ma and should only be used to turn on a relay. The autoswitch would replace the toggle switch in CAJWs schematic.

 

[dcarver]

If you go ask for a DPDT switch, it won't have an "open" position, it'll be one side or the other. You need to make sure you get something with "center-off."
I added the bike's hi/lo relay, just to point out that the hi-lo switch does not connect directly to the headlight bulb:

I don't see a fuse on the 12-volt line to the Solteks, so I'll assume you picked up that line in the wrong place on your drawing. I put one in. I also changed the connection of the DPDT switch on the "manual" side. Your way trades one relay for another. How is that better? My way, the lights turn on, period, unless the fuse is blown, something's disconnected, or they're burnt out. You still have the center-off to shut them off, and the "normal" position uses your auto-relay. I didn't bother following your blue/red/purple code, either.

EDIT: Downside is someone can walk to your bike, turn the lights on, and walk away. Trade off of convenience for reliability. In your previous thread, it was suggested that you have a way to "FORCE" the lights on without having to rely on some circuit or component or another to trigger them, and I assume that's what you're trying to do. Your auto-relay is convenient and works, but hooking up your manual switch through another relay doesn't improve anything conceptually. Sure, if the auto-relay fails maybe the other one didn't and your switch still works. In my diagram, the switch is the ONLY component in the circuit, and the lights WILL work when you flip it to the manual side.

Great post, Thanks.

1. I'm hoping I have fuse in the Soltek circuit, just don't remember where it is.
2. The DPDT switch listed in the John Dumke thread does have a center-off position.
3. I think I've decided to use trade convenience for reliability. I have no faith in myself to not accidentally light them up, or have a bird land on the switch, or some stranger's curiosity get the better of them resulting in a dead battery (in the middle of no-wheres-ville). The switch isn't covered, so a jacket dragging across it, a bump from the helmet, the loverly pushing it on are too much a real possibility for my comfort zone.
4. Very good corrections on the fuse and headlight relay!

Thanks again for your input! Wow.

 

[dcarver]

Email sent back with my addie - dcarverThanks!

Don,

This gave me an excuse to clean up my schematic. Email didn't show up, must be kink in pipeline so here it is. This has served me well for over two years, HTH.

JW

I looked at the Autoswitch website and found the wiring diagram for the Autoswitch. installation instructions for autoswitch

It shows the Autoswitch has a max. current rating of 200ma and should only be used to turn on a relay. The autoswitch would replace the toggle switch in CAJWs schematic.

This helps alot - I didn't know the pin outs for a standard 12v relay. Your diagram sure is easier to 'read' than mine too! Off to Visio..

 

[CAJW]

Great post, Thanks.

1. I'm hoping I have fuse in the Soltek circuit, just don't remember where it is.
2. The DPDT switch listed in the John Dumke thread does have a center-off position.
3. I think I've decided to use trade convenience for reliability. I have no faith in myself to not accidentally light them up, or have a bird land on the switch, or some stranger's curiosity get the better of them resulting in a dead battery (in the middle of no-wheres-ville). The switch isn't covered, so a jacket dragging across it, a bump from the helmet, the loverly pushing it on are too much a real possibility for my comfort zone.
4. Very good corrections on the fuse and headlight relay!

Thanks again for your input! Wow.

Don,

I too had worries of an accidental triggering of the Solteks and after a few encounters with cages blinking their high beams during the day at me, I came up with this guard. I fashioned it from some thin aluminum, trimmed the edges to be just above the toggle switch and painted it black. The rubber switch cover is an ACE Hardware item, (sorry no part #), which has served me well. With my power strip being relay triggered off of the low beam circuit, my accessories are not "hot" until the engine is running which negates the worry of having the battery run down if someone comes along and fiddles with switches. The only way that could happen is if you left the key on after shutting down with the engine cut off switch. Have fun!

 

[dcarver]

Dang, no time to work on this today. What's up with dat?

 

[dcarver]

Here's what I ended up with. It retains the AutoSwitch and provides completely independent power circuit as well. The DPDT has to be in position 1 for the AutoSwitch to work. Position 2 is independent.