Wiring up for the Farkles

[Aviator]

Here is what I plan to do and where I am in the process. Thanks to all the members here I have come up with my plan of attack for the farkles. I am putting on the Starcom Intercom (thanks Bike Effects) then I am hooking up the Garmin 2820 with XM (thanks NAV2000). The Garmin will be attached with a stem mount from Cycle Gadgets. The plan is to hear music, GPS, cell phone(via Bluetooth) and maybe a rider if she tags along.

Now where I am in the process and what my question is. I have hooked up a Blue Sea fuse block via the instructions from Warchilds webpage (thanks Warchild). Now I am better than the average bear with wiring and electronic stuff (I used to wire aircraft) but I still have a question and issue. I hooked up a relay off my turn signal, hooked up the fuse block and then the Starcom (testing along the way) and no power. I had power at the relay at one point but not anymore. Bought a brand new relay, thinking I fried it somehow. Still no go, so I took it out of the circuit and got power to the fuse block and power to the Starcom for a moment. Now for the question, should I just take the relay out and put in a switch to control it all myself? Or is there something else I can do to test the relay to keep it in? Multimeter isn’t showing power coming out of it.

Now I am OK on all my fuses. Power off the battery is OK (30amp), Blue Sea is OK(15amp), the Starcom looks OK(??). But I only got power to the Starcom for a moment; the power light came on and then went off. This is all once I jumped the relay. Do I have too many fuses in the circuit?

Thank you in advance!

 

[bramfrank]

Take out your meter and see if you have positive to the relay coil when the ignition is on with the negative of the meter connected to the relay.

If you do then the relay coil is bad. If you don't then it is somewhere else.

If you don't - connect the meter to battery negative and to the relay coil positive - do you have voltage with the ignition on? If yes, then you have a bad ground to the relay coil.

If not, then connect the meter to coil negative and BATTERY positive, then see if you have voltage - if yes, then it's in the power feed. Check your fuse.

I power the positive lead on the coil of the relay that powers my Blue-Sea fuse block from the auto-retract wiring in the plug that I disconnected to make the screen stay put.

 

[PTP]

Here is what I plan to do and where I am in the process. Thanks to all the members here I have come up with my plan of attack for the farkles. I am putting on the Starcom Intercom (thanks Bike Effects) then I am hooking up the Garmin 2820 with XM (thanks NAV2000). The Garmin will be attached with a stem mount from Cycle Gadgets. The plan is to hear music, GPS, cell phone(via Bluetooth) and maybe a rider if she tags along.
Now where I am in the process and what my question is. I have hooked up a Blue Sea fuse block via the instructions from Warchilds webpage (thanks Warchild). Now I am better than the average bear with wiring and electronic stuff (I used to wire aircraft) but I still have a question and issue. I hooked up a relay off my turn signal, hooked up the fuse block and then the Starcom (testing along the way) and no power. I had power at the relay at one point but not anymore. Bought a brand new relay, thinking I fried it somehow. Still no go, so I took it out of the circuit and got power to the fuse block and power to the Starcom for a moment. Now for the question, should I just take the relay out and put in a switch to control it all myself? Or is there something else I can do to test the relay to keep it in? Multimeter isn’t showing power coming out of it.

Now I am OK on all my fuses. Power off the battery is OK (30amp), Blue Sea is OK(15amp), the Starcom looks OK(??). But I only got power to the Starcom for a moment; the power light came on and then went off. This is all once I jumped the relay. Do I have too many fuses in the circuit?

Thank you in advance!

My 2c. I've got my Blue Sea ready to go and start wiring things up also...I *think* I'm going to have a switch in line to power it up rather than the relay. Why? On the '02 Goldwing that was traded on the '06 FJR I didn't like it when I turned the bike off and the GPS turned off also. I'm running a 2730 without batteries and could have rewired some stuff to keep it on, but was basically to lazy to do it. The only downside I can think of it having switched is that someone would turn it on at night and the CB would be on...everything else comes off the bike. If the switch is somewhat hidden I don't think that is much of an issue though. A simple push button switch tucked away out of sight should do the trick. If for some reason the switch fails it's easy enough to make the connection "hot" until the switch can be replaced...same goes for a relay, but the relay adds more to the equation. I've used relays in the past, but I'm trying to make this as easy as possible to make roadside maintenace as easy as possible. Per Murphy, "if something can go wrong, it will."

PTP

 

[Aviator]

Bramfank-

I have done some of that already. I really think it is just the relay, because I checked the positive(switched) from my positive meter while the negative was on the battery ground. And I got nothing. I would think just by doing that would give me the answer. I havent checked to see if the ground is bad tho, so I will after the weekend. (gotta fly up to CT for the weekend and I am not happy because I want to fix this and ride)

PTP- Kinda where I am right now. If I can get this relay hooked up I am going to all switched power to my blue sea. However I am going to run my GPS right off the battery. If I want the unit off, there is a switch on the unit. That is easy enough for me and I dont "plan" on leaving it on over night to worry about the battery drain.

Thank You so far everyone. :clapping:

 

[bramfrank]

If I understand correctly and you had one meter lead on the battery ground and other on the relay coil positive feed and read nothing, then there's no power feed to the relay.

I wired my Bluesea to the battery. I've installed an inline 50 amp ATC fuse right at the battery terminal and an automotive relay next to the battery (fits fine), so the power traversing the bike is fused and ignition-controlled.

PTP:

My 276c has an internal battery, so it doesn't much mind being switched on and off, though it can get confused if you cycle power on and of and on etc . . .

The automotive units do not mind being switched off - lots of cars (and the 06 FJR) have switched cigarette lighter sockets, so they're designed to take it.

Even if you do use a hidden switch, you can feed the system from a switched power source, so you can disable it but still have control and not wake up to a discharged battery. If you MUST be able to put power on while the switch is off I wonder if it isn't an idea to use a miniature locking 3-way toggle switch - one way is always on, the center is off and the other way is ignition controlled. Locking prevents the state from being casually changed.

 

[EricR]

I think relays come in "normally open" and "normally closed" varieties. For this app, I believe you want a "normally open" relay which closes (completes the circuit) when 12v is applied to the control pin. Is it possible you've got a "normally closed" relay which is breaking the connection when 12v is applied?

Good luck!

EricR

Here is what I plan to do and where I am in the process. Thanks to all the members here I have come up with my plan of attack for the farkles. I am putting on the Starcom Intercom (thanks Bike Effects) then I am hooking up the Garmin 2820 with XM (thanks NAV2000). The Garmin will be attached with a stem mount from Cycle Gadgets. The plan is to hear music, GPS, cell phone(via Bluetooth) and maybe a rider if she tags along.
Now where I am in the process and what my question is. I have hooked up a Blue Sea fuse block via the instructions from Warchilds webpage (thanks Warchild). Now I am better than the average bear with wiring and electronic stuff (I used to wire aircraft) but I still have a question and issue. I hooked up a relay off my turn signal, hooked up the fuse block and then the Starcom (testing along the way) and no power. I had power at the relay at one point but not anymore. Bought a brand new relay, thinking I fried it somehow. Still no go, so I took it out of the circuit and got power to the fuse block and power to the Starcom for a moment. Now for the question, should I just take the relay out and put in a switch to control it all myself? Or is there something else I can do to test the relay to keep it in? Multimeter isn’t showing power coming out of it.

Now I am OK on all my fuses. Power off the battery is OK (30amp), Blue Sea is OK(15amp), the Starcom looks OK(??). But I only got power to the Starcom for a moment; the power light came on and then went off. This is all once I jumped the relay. Do I have too many fuses in the circuit?

Thank you in advance!

 

[bramfrank]

Maybe I read it wrong.

Perhaps he IS trying to test the system by checking the output.

What's needed is a measured and methodical approach to the troubleshooting.

So, here goes:

You need the following signals:

1. A proper ground to one of the legs of the relay coil.

2. A switched power source to the other leg of the relay coil.

These first two need not be large gauge wires - 20 gauge or even 22 gauge is just fine.

3. A fused power feed from the battery of the bike - wire that to the common lead of the relay contact set

4. A wire to the common positive input on your fuse block coming from the Normally Open (N.O.) lead of the relay contact set.

5. If your fuse block distributes the negative as well, a wire from the battery to the common negative input on the fuse block.

Make the power wiring to the fuse block 14 gauge at the very least (mine is 10 gauge) and that includes the wire to the relay common and from the relay N.O. contact.

Testing:

Take the voltmeter. Connect the negative lead to the negative relay coil conection, the positive to the positive coil connection and measure for 12 VDC across the coil with the ignition on (when you expect there to be power). If you DO have voltage then move to step A. Otherwise:

1. Disconnect the NEGATIVE meter lead and connect it to the batery negative terminal. You now have voltage? So fix the negative wire to the relay coil and start over.

2. You don't have voltage? Reconnect the negative to the relay coil and connect the positive to the battery. You now see voltage? Then you either messed up on your power take-off connection or have a broken wire to the relay coil. Figure it out and fix it and start over.

At this point the relay should 'click' when you turn the ignition key on.

A. Does the relay click? If not, since you do have voltage across the coil, replace the relay.

B. Now, connect your meter to battery negative and to the relay common contact lead. Do you see voltage? If not, check the feedline fuse you installed. It's either that, or you've made a bad connection on the feed from the battery. Fix it and start over.

C. Once you see power at the common input and with the relay energised (i.e. key on) measure the N.O. contact pin on the relay. You see voltage? If not, replace the relay and restart the process.

D. You are now feeding power to the wire that goes to the fuse block. So now connect the meter negative to battery, meter positive to the common-positive on the fuse block. With the ignition on you ouught to be seeing voltage. If not then it'll be a wiring/connection issue between the relay and the fuse block. Fix it.

E. Now measure from fuse block common positive to fuse block commmon negative. With ignition on you should see power. Yes? Great! Unless your fuse block is defective everything works. If not, then that negative wire to the battery or the connections to it are bad. Fix it.

Last:

You DID put a fuse in the appropriate locations in your fuse block, no?

 

[Aviator]

If I understand correctly and you had one meter lead on the battery ground and other on the relay coil positive feed and read nothing, then there's no power feed to the relay.

I wired my Bluesea to the battery. There's an inline 50 amp ATC fuse right at the battery terminal and an automotive relay next to the battery (fits fine), so the power traversing the bike is fused and ignition-controlled.

~ Close- The other end was on the switched power part of the relay. I know I have power going to the relay. Just not coming out of it. BUT HEY. . . great idea! I didnt see another relay by the 50 amp. I could just bring my Bluesea off that. Adding another relay into that tight spot was becoming very troublesome.

EricR- Good Point, but I thought I made sure about that. I used the one Warchild recommend. And I looked at it myself. During the install process I was even testing it and it was working fine. Just puzzling to me now.

Wow I got some looking to do. Guess that fairing is coming off again. WOW what a PITA. hahaha better me than the shop at $30/hr.

HAHA YES. . . ALL FUSES ARE FINE!! I know you gotta ask the basic questions sometimes. HAHA I laugh because that would be something I say.

I love your check out list. I have done some but not all completely. I will get working on it.

Thanks

 

[bramfrank]

The other end was on the switched power part of the relay. I know I have power going to the relay. Just not coming out of it. BUT HEY. . . great idea! I didnt see another relay by the 50 amp. I could just bring my Bluesea off that. Adding another relay into that tight spot was becoming very troublesome.

Not sure if we are both on the same page yet.
The fuse and relay I refer to were added by me.

 

[chornbe]

I would still use a relay with a switch.

Have the power bus get its power from the battery via the relay, and wire the switch so it only activates the relay. You don't want to go melting switches when al lthe current for the add-on bus goes thru' it.

 

[Aviator]

The other end was on the switched power part of the relay. I know I have power going to the relay. Just not coming out of it. BUT HEY. . . great idea! I didnt see another relay by the 50 amp. I could just bring my Bluesea off that. Adding another relay into that tight spot was becoming very troublesome.

Not sure if we are both on the same page yet.
The fuse and relay I refer to were added by me.

Gotcha! Same route I am trying to go. Once I get this relay fixed, I will have to put it some place. Yours seems to be in the same area that I am looking. There is a bolt over to the left of the mirrors bolts and it would be perfect. But it hasn't worked yet. I'll find a spot, I just need to get that darn relay going.

Ohh BTW, had a clicking during intial install but not now and not with the new relay either. I have a strong feeling that the new relay I bought was bad from the begining.

 

[Randy]

.... I hooked up a relay off my turn signal,

You mean the running light, right? If you hooked it up to the signal, would there only be power if the signal was actually blinking?

Do you have the relay wired like this?

 

[bramfrank]

Nice drawing.

You still need to fuse each device separately.

Because my relay is next to the battery I ran the relay negative to the battery take-off terminal rather than to the disgtribution block as you are shoing it. I used ring connectors for all wires and soldered the connections.

My relay trigger came from the windshield retractor connector.

 

[bluejag]

Nice drawing.
You still need to fuse each device separately.

Because my relay is next to the battery I ran the relay negative to the battery take-off terminal rather than to the disgtribution block as you are shoing it. I used ring connectors for all wires and soldered the connections.

My relay trigger came from the windshield retractor connector.

all responses are excellent but I did not see in any post that you have a headset plugged in???

Starcom has an internal on with headset that then lights the power on led???

 

[Aviator]

Here is the up date and what I did last night.

I did some thinking. . . and one last try. Checked to make sure that the switced power was working, and it was. This is daytime running lights on the turn signal that I used and power is coming fine from there, when I turn the key on. Well I bought a new relay from Radioshack(3 total now) and it didnt work. I used the schematic from Warchild, Randy and the one off the back of the package. Still NO GO. .

When I bought the new relay I also bought a switch just in case. So after a few attempts of getting the relay to work. I gave up and put in a switch and I am actually rather pleased with the look. The light might be annoying and I will probably end up killing the bulb, but other than that. It looks great, I placed it on the black plastic piece that holds the headlight adjustments. (pictures to follow once I get everything done)

So it's done and I am happy. Thank you Bamfrank for the fast post and everyone else. Randy, great looking diagram!! You all were very helpful. Now to get the intercom headsets, bluetooth, GPS and XM going before the weekend. I am really in the mood to ride.

Might end up doing Cunningham Falls and some mountains this weekend if anyone in the area is interested in riding. Figure I will just get lost and then ask the GPS to get me home. Might turn the girlfriends mic way down. I kinda think the tapping on the helmet is funny when she thinks I am going too fast.