Wobbles tun to tank slapper!

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This entire thread is ********.

I've been told too many times FJRs don't wobble.

Admins...close this turd NOW!

Oh....Scott doesn't make a damper for the Feej. If they did, I'dahad one for 2 years.

 
I know this is a common problem, but no-one seems to have it as bad as I do yet. If I roll off the throttle and release the handlebars, the speed goes from 50+ to 40 MPH the bike starts to get a head shake so bad that it would be a tank slapper if i did not grab the bars again. I have just recently gotten the bike back from the shop where they replaced the plastic on the front, so I'm sure they took the wheel off. Also, I installed the factory top case before I noticed the wobble. so I could take it back to the dealer and complain (i guess) or I could nail down the cause on my own (probably)
Does Yamaha make a steering damp for the FJR? does anyone?

If its the torque setting on the forks, what do I need to test that?

Thanks for any help

R3d
BEFORE YOU GO CRAZY TRYING EVERYTHING IN THE BOOK, TAKE YOUR TRUNK OFF AND TRY IT AGAIN, I HAD THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM WITH MY 2007 FJR REMOVED THE TRUNK WENT FROM TANK SLAPPER BACK TO JUST A WOBBLE. I STILL THINK THE HEADSET MAY BE A BIT LOOSE , BUT THE TRUNK REALLY DID MAKE A BIG DIFFERENT HANDS FREE.

 
I just thought I would close this thread with an update.

I tried running different tire pressure, I also inspected the whole bike for lose parts etc...nothing solved the wobbles, except this

REMOVING THE TOP CASE

I rode without the top case and the wobbles disappeared, completly.

So there it is, I guess i will just have to live with it while I am riding with the top case and the side cases. even though Yammie says not to ride with both on at the same time.

I guess this is why they dont want you to fully dress the FJR.

R3d

 
Its a mystery of life why some have the wobble regardless of tire brand, top case etc and some don't using the same set up as those who do. I have run Avons for for years now and have never experienced a wobble. I have also run a top case for 5 years and notice a high speed weave over triple digits but no wobble. Just count my blessings.

 
This probably deserves a new thread, but the top case buffeting & the FJR "bubble" of air behind the windshield got me to thinking. Has anyone else gotten really good mpg riding two up & loaded? I have on a couple of occasions and it made me wonder if the Yammie engineers didn't factor a pillion into the aerodynamics design.

I wonder what would happen if you put a Cee Baileys flip windshield on the bike with the trunk attached?

I just thought I would close this thread with an update.
I tried running different tire pressure, I also inspected the whole bike for lose parts etc...nothing solved the wobbles, except this

REMOVING THE TOP CASE

I rode without the top case and the wobbles disappeared, completly.

So there it is, I guess i will just have to live with it while I am riding with the top case and the side cases. even though Yammie says not to ride with both on at the same time.

I guess this is why they dont want you to fully dress the FJR.

R3d
 
I'm sad to say this as an '07 owner, but this is one more reason to prove Yamaha really cheaped out on GenII bikes. Seems they didn't have the budget/plans to do it, but the debut of the K1200GT 'forced' them to come up with something, and probably at the last minute. Only thing that apparently needed fixing was the heat, and they could have done that easily.

If I was a GenI owner, I wouldn't sell my bike for a GenII; no way. Later gang.

JC

 
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I rebalanced the front tire on my new 07 last spring when it wobbled on decel. I balance all my tires by spin balancing on the bike. I found the factory balance was off by 1/2 oz. Fixed the problem.

 
I've never had a wobble like you've described that wasn't due to worn, especially cupped, front tires. If they're a particularly hard tire, the wobble is worse.

Low tire pressure has sometimes been the root cause but not all tires I've run low (intentionally) have cupped.

IRBR

 
My bike also had a bad shake(bought it used) had cupped tires etc. but I finally fixed it with new tapered head bearings and a lot of preload.

I am convinced that the preload is the key to the whole problem. Take it back to the dealer and have them retorque the head bearings. If this does not fix it. Get someone to double the torque used, no fix, double again. get the picture, Have not tried this on the factory bearings. But that is how I got to the preload I run on the new bearings (about 65#) Bernie

P. S. you are looking for enough preload so that you can feel it in the handlebars.

 
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This probably deserves a new thread, but the top case buffeting & the FJR "bubble" of air behind the windshield got me to thinking. Has anyone else gotten really good mpg riding two up & loaded? I have on a couple of occasions and it made me wonder if the Yammie engineers didn't factor a pillion into the aerodynamics design.
When I strap a tail bag onto the pillion seat (while running my Givi top case) I can get 1-2 mpg improvement. It has more to do with the vortices induced between the pilot and the top case than needing a pillion.

I am convinced that the preload is the key to the whole problem. Take it back to the dealer and have them retorque the head bearings. If this does not fix it. Get someone to double the torque used, no fix, double again. get the picture, Have not tried this on the factory bearings. But that is how I got to the preload I run on the new bearings (about 65#) Bernie
P. S. you are looking for enough preload so that you can feel it in the handlebars.
You might also try adjusting the fork spring preload and rebound to see if that modification will lessen or eliminate the problem. (Er..uhm...check your owners manual for how and where.)

 
I didn't have the shakes til I put on the Avon Storms. :angry2:
Interesting, Charlie. I had the local dealer put on a pair of Avon Storms a few months back, and am almost absolutely certain I did not experience the 45-50 mph hands-off deceleration wobble.

However, a week later the dealer serviced the bike and repacked and torqued the steering head bearings. Yep. I now have that wobble. :(

Talked with their mechanic who performed the service and asked about what value he used to torque the steering head. He said he just did it by feel! When I said that Yamaha makes a tool for that, his reply: "Yamaha makes a tool for everything!" <_<

 
Jebus Horatio Christopher!

Didn't this guy

dwight-eisenhower-picture.jpg


close this thread, like, in 1959?

 
I had the same problem. Mine did it from day one. New bike, new tires straight from the show room floor. I don't normally ride no handed so I wasnt really all that concerned. I would let go every now and then to see if it ever changes as the front tire wore. Never got better or worse through out the life of the tires, 8k miles. I recently got a new set of shoes, Dunlop Road Smarts. I asked the dealer not to balance them and I used Dynamic Balancing Beads in them both. The first thing I did when I got the new tires was bring it up to 80 to check the ride, smooth as glass. Then I let go of the handlebars and let her decelerate all the way back down to about 15. Absolutly no shake. I now have a little over 1k miles on the new tires and I check it quite often to see if it ever developes the shake again. So far nothing, dont know if its the tires or the beads. The beads are advertised to eliminate shake and there very cheap. Probably worth a shot before ditching your tires. I'm not one to experiment so If I get decent wear from these tires I'll be going the Road Smart/w bal beads route from now on.

 
My bike also had a bad shake(bought it used) had cupped tires etc. but I finally fixed it with new tapered head bearings and a lot of preload.I am convinced that the preload is the key to the whole problem. Take it back to the dealer and have them retorque the head bearings. If this does not fix it. Get someone to double the torque used, no fix, double again. get the picture, Have not tried this on the factory bearings. But that is how I got to the preload I run on the new bearings (about 65#) Bernie

P. S. you are looking for enough preload so that you can feel it in the handlebars.
There is no way on God's green earth I would consider doubling the torque, and then doubling it again! Holy crap, but at least you won't be riding with your hands off the bars because it would take both hands just to overcome the overtorque'd bearings. :blink:

dbx

 
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