Won't start after valve adj

[KeithB]

I adjusted the valves and now it cranks a little slower than normal and won't fire. I had 3 intakes that were borderline tight so I put in thinner shims.

After several ooops, all of them forgetting to release the cam chain tensioner causing the cam chain to skip a tooth or two while checking, :angry2: I've reinstalled both cams aligning them exactly as the manual says. I also was following https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html as well. When it didn't fire, I also took them out, cranked the motor 360 degrees and re-installed them. I did, however, get one big backfire last night at midnight. I wonder if any neighbors called the cops? :lol:

I've checked & rechecked the cam timing 4-5 times and they look perfect. I also put in new iridium plugs & changed anti-freeze while there.

Everything mechanical is back in, only the bodywork is still off.

I'm getting really good at removing & reinstalling cams but it wouldn't bother me if I didn't do it again for a while. The bike's on the charger now. My next step is to reinstall the old plugs tomorrow.

Question: When letting out the cam chain tensioner, do you turn it all the way out hard, or do you leave it a little in the "soft" area?

Any other ideas would be GREATLY appreciated.

2005 non-abs.

Thanks!

Keith.

 

[ionbeam]

I adjusted the valves and now it cranks a little slower than normal and won't fire. After several ooops, ... forgetting to release the cam chain tensioner causing the cam chain to skip a tooth or two while checking

Well, it can't get worse than this. If you can, do a compression check.

 

[Wolfhound]

Any chance your battery is low & it cranks but not enough to fire the ign ?

 

[mike25]

Do a leak-down test.

 

[Geezer]

Same thing happened to me.

I found that there are TWO alignment marks on each cam. If you pick the wrong one your cams will align such that the lobes on the exhaust and intake will closely parallel each other. If both cams are approximately matched then you have one wrong.

 

[KeithB]

Thanks, folks. I do remember that the #1 lobes were pointing away from each other, once I figured out what the service manual was showing me. The arrows on the EX, and the little lines on the IN line up exactly to the case, and the small pinholes on the #4 lobe lines up exactly with the arrow on the cam journal. I figured out how to make sure I didn't switch the cams around and I hadn't.

I also had the pin holding the cam chain tensioner come out with the cover and was jamming things a bit until I figured that one out. The motor got into a bind a couple of times, but that was when turning by hand during checking (after the camchain skipped). I had to back off the crankshaft (counter clockwise) a bit (only a degree or two) but I don't think that would hurt anything. There was a couple of times when I could tell the cam journals weren't tightening right (when the cam timing was wrong) but I didn't try to force it because I didn't want to bend any valves. I was trying to use the arrows on the IN instead of the dashmarks. I may be a slow learner, but I'm getting better.

Overall, I think I've installed the cams at least a dozen times. My adult kids don't know where I got the patience, because they don't remember me having much patience with them when they were growing up... :lol:

I'll do a leak down test & recheck the cams tonight. It sounds like I may not want to do a compression check yet.

I'm also going to check the electrics, even though I tried not to unplug anything I didn't have to.

Keith.

 

[odot]

You don't have the fuel lines installed backwards, do ya?

 

[ionbeam]

...I do remember that the #1 lobes were pointing away from each other...I'll do a leak down test & recheck the cams tonight. It sounds like I may not want to do a compression check yet.Keith.

If you can do a leakdown test there should be no need to do a compression check. A leakdown reading of 93% or better will confirm good compression. Yamaha says that the maximum limit for leakdown is 7%.

 

[KeithB]

I wish I DID have the fuel lines backwards... that way I'd have to stop every 200 miles at remove 5 gals.... :yahoo:

 

[Checkswrecks]

The good news is that you've not described crashing the valves into a piston.

You're so focused on the cams that are you sure that you're not missing something else really basic form getting it all apart? Pinched fuel line when the tank comes down? An electrical connector for the ignition not tight? Same for a fuel injection / ECU plug? Handlebar kill switch? etc

 

[KeithB]

Good point on the rest of the bike's systems. I'll re-check all the connections, including the tank.

Does anyone know where to get a leakdown tester including the size adapter for the FJR? I have the air, just don't have the gauges & adapter.

 

[radman]

A couple thoughts. One is to be sure you remembered to plug in the position sensor mounted in the valve cover. The other is, you got a backfire, which could be a mistimed cam, or it could be a plug wire on the wrong plug. Or, it could be you have to start the bike using the flooded procedure, which is to crank it throttle wide open. Assuming you did have the cams on wrong, and tried to start the motor, it's well flooded by now. Always spooky when you get a no start after playing with internals, but on this motor, anything is possible.

 

[ionbeam]

Good point on the rest of the bike's systems. I'll re-check all the connections, including the tank.
Does anyone know where to get a leakdown tester including the size adapter for the FJR? I have the air, just don't have the gauges & adapter.

First, try some local tool rental places and see if they have a leakdown set. There is no reason not to use a standard compression gauge for a good/bad assessment. MOST COMPRESSION GAUGE KITS AND LEAK DOWN GAUGE SETS DO NOT COME WITH A SPARKPLUG ADAPTER THAT FITS THE FJR SPARKPLUG HOLE/THREAD SIZE. Be sure to check! :lol: The leakdown tester below is <$30 at Harbor Freight

clickable pic:

 

[KeithB]

You're right about these kits not having the right adapter. The local bike shop showed me theirs (a fitting complete with hose) that would be much better than a screw-on adaptor. They got theirs from Snap-on.

Northern Tool had one, but only as part of an expensive compression tester. Nobody else around here seems to have one.

I've got the kit, but where's a good place to get the proper fitting?

Thanks.

Keith.

 

[v65]

You're right about these kits not having the right adapter. The local bike shop showed me theirs (a fitting complete with hose) that would be much better than a screw-on adaptor. They got theirs from Snap-on.
Northern Tool had one, but only as part of an expensive compression tester. Nobody else around here seems to have one.

I've got the kit, but where's a good place to get the proper fitting?

Thanks.

Keith.

Hollow out a spark plug, JB weld an NPT fitting on. The ceramic is a pain in the butt, but most of it can be broken out.

 

[odot]

Or, you can just put the fuel lines where they are supposed to be and it will start right up..........nevermind me....noone ever listens to me.

 

[ionbeam]

Here is a ~$70 way to solve the compression test problem. I believe this compression gauge kit has the coveted 10mm threaded spark plug adapter that fits the FJR. The quick connects on the bits and pieces are universal so they should adapt to a leakdown tester from another source.

>>Zoom to Sears<<

 

[v65]

Or, you can just put the fuel lines where they are supposed to be and it will start right up..........nevermind me....noone ever listens to me.

I don't think you can put them on the wrong way, at least not on a Gen II, of course I've never tried.

 

[Checkswrecks]

The leak down tester is a really good diagnosis tool, but it sounds like you're at such a basic level you really just need a fast compression test. Don't get too wrapped around the tool, just see if you got compression at this point.