'06 - '12 Bin O Facts (Generation II)

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The FSM says engine oil drain plug specs for tightening is 31 lb.-ft. That is too tight. There is a good possibility of stripping the threads. Specs for final drive oil drain plug is 17 b.-ft. They are the same size bolts.
If you are going to use a torque wrench, I suggest 17 lb.-ft. for the engine oil plug also.
This discrepancy is noted in at least 2 places in post #1. IMHO the easiest way to not strip it out is to not use a torque wrench, just tighten it snug. Also, just my US$0.02 but torque wrenches are the single most dangerous tool to own and cause more harm than good overall.

 
An update is needed on oil filters. A recent change in manufacturing has rendered some previously acceptable oil filters models as unacceptable. The threaded portion of the oil filter used to be concave (like an innie belly button), but is now an convex (an outie). This results in insufficient compression of the gasket (and subsequent leaks) when the threads now bottom out on the union in the FJR engine.

Affected filters are the Purolator 14610/14612, Bosch 3323 and possibly others.

I'm currently running a Wix 57356 that shows as an acceptable filter for the FJR on rockauto.com and it does not leak. Cost is $4.55 and it comes in black (not white like shown on the rockauto.com website).

 
But since it's not universal I don't think a change to the section is warranted. Perhaps add a caution, something like "let the buyer beware. Open the box and look at it before you buy it."

 
But since it's not universal I don't think a change to the section is warranted. Perhaps add a caution, something like "let the buyer beware. Open the box and look at it before you buy it."
That might be okay in the short term, but I'm certain that people are just finding old stock filters that work. Unless manufacturing changes again down the road, some of our favorite filters will be off limits for FJR use.

I still have 3 of my favorite old Bosch 3323's in stock, along with a case of new ones. These fit all 3 motorcycles in my garage and the wife's Acura TL, but I'm reserving this old stock for the FJR only. I just changed the oil in the kids' Honda Shadow and examination of the filter mount/ threads revealed that the new outie Bosch 3323 filters will work just fine in that application. Test rides have confirmed no leaks.

 
If someone on the forum wants to go through the effot to build a definitive list of all filters that work and don't...they can send me a PM with a proposal on the subject and I bet we can accommodate. The filter questions I've seen are not generation specific at all and agree these sections are not the place to do this.

 
I think it would be beneficial to note under Suspension that the shock is interchangeable between all generations of FJR, except Gen III ES, in both OEM and aftermarket configurations. It is common to use the Gen III shock to upgrade Gen I and Gen II suspensions, and it is a less expensive part. Similarly, an aftermarket Penske, Ohlins and other shocks are able to be transferred between all three generations, preserving that investment. The Gen III ES cannot be swapped since it requires the logic in the ECM.

 
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Just used a John Deere filter on my 2007 TY 26276 seems to work great price is around $4.00. This is the longer filter. I also have used 15/40 plus 50 John Deere diesel oil for all of its 36K miles very good very available.

 
That might be okay in the short term, but I'm certain that people are just finding old stock filters that work. Unless manufacturing changes again down the road, some of our favorite filters will be off limits for FJR use.
Purchased an M1-110. Not old stock, manufactured 12/2015. Still concave.

 
Does anyone know if the front signal bulb is in fact a 7443? for a Gen 2 FJR1300

I found the following from the first gen bin of facts

Rear Marker/Brake Light - 1157 (8.5/27 watts) or LED replacement here. Other numbers include 2057 (brighter brake light filament), 2357, 7528, & 7225. Consult here for details.

Rear Turn Signal - 1156 (27 watts) 1156 will not work a 7507, 7505 will the guide tabs are slightly different and line up with a 120 degree pin offset as opposed to a 1156 with a 180 deg offset

Cowling Marker/Turn Signal - 7443 (5/21 watts) Yamaha part number for gen 1 is 5GJ-83331-00 - 00 & the part number for a gen 2 is 3P6-83331-00- 00

The part numbers are different so how did the bulb change?

 
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The Gen I and Gen II Cowling Marker/Turn Signal bulbs are the same.

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX

The first three digits are the Model Code (every model in the Yamaha Product Line has a unique model number). The Model Code will be the first model year they were used on, so if the Model doesn't change it will be the same for following years ('01 to '05; '06 to '12; '13 to ......).

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The middle five digits are the Basic Code number and indicates the actual part, i.e. 11631 = piston; 11311 = cylinder, etc.
A "W" substituted in the first position of this five-digit group (000-W0000-00-00) indicates a factory assembled kit which differs in content from the original assembly used in production (i.e. 2M0-W0046-00-00 – Rear Break Pad Ass’y).

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The next two digits are the Design Code and Design Change digits (so 01 means the part has had one design change). This part may or may not appear different, but it will be interchangeable with the original part.

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The last two digits are the Color or Finish Code.

FWIW, using the first three digits to distinguish models, the '15 and '16 are the same model 1MC and therefore both are Gen III bikes.

 
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In the YCCS section, change

Note: If the YCC-S indicator comes on (next to the shift) shifting will not be possible

With shifting may not be possible.

I have had many SH codes (including indicator) that allow shifting like today with my SH_47

 
Thanks - I'll make the edit to the document and update the post.

Wayne

In the YCCS section, change

Note: If the YCC-S indicator comes on (next to the shift) shifting will not be possible

With shifting may not be possible.

I have had many SH codes (including indicator) that allow shifting like today with my SH_47
 
I finally got around to changing the turn signal flasher relay because I had switched all of the lamps to LEDs which resulted in the fast flashing rate.

the original flasher is part number FE246BH (a universal piece that is used on many different brand motorcycles and can be bought anywhere)

With all the body work off, from the front in the center directly above the front wheel are two relays, the smaller one on top is the turn signal flasher relay.

dGYA79y.jpg


I installed a LED Customs https://www.tobefast.com/images/P/Sportbike_flasher_relay_custom_led.jpg (about $20) that was plug and play. (white connector in the picture above my finger with tie wraps holding it on the perch)

3dIF4vo.jpg


 

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