Gen 1 valve clearance check info/help

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Hey guys I'm thinking I want to do a valve clearance check soon. I have searched the forum and I think I have a parts list but I need to know where (and what) I can find the right shim kit. I know I won't know what I need until I'm in there so I guess I need something that will cover everything. Gen 1 2003 60,000 miles, feel free to include your opinion on a parts list. Thanks.
 
Hey guys I'm thinking I want to do a valve clearance check soon. I have searched the forum and I think I have a parts list but I need to know where (and what) I can find the right shim kit. I know I won't know what I need until I'm in there so I guess I need something that will cover everything. Gen 1 2003 60,000 miles, feel free to include your opinion on a parts list. Thanks.

Dan, always good to have more Dan's in the neighborhood.
If you have not done an FJR valve check before, it is not too difficult, but you might put your location and year model scooter in your profile for future reference. Someone with experience may be nearby and willing to offer a hand.

As to your planned valve check. It is not too likely you will need shims, but there are basically two different shim kits,
Hot Cams and Pro-X. Both kits are available from multiple sources, you will want the 9.48 diameter shims. Personally, I would not buy a shim kit, probably 90% of the shims in a kit will never be used.
The Hot Cams shims are available in half sizes, ie. 1.20 - 1.25 - 1.30.
The Pro-X shims are available in quarter sizes, ie. 1.20 - 1.225 - 1.25 - 1.275 - 1.30.

Shims are available individually at a very reasonable price from Rocky Mountain ATV.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/pro-x-valve-shim-p?v=13988

Another item to look into is the Cam Chain Tensioner. If yours does not have a color dot on the mounting flange, it should be changed to the later model with a green dot. The Gen 1 tensioners were known to be weak and could lead to a catastrophic failure. Items #6 & #7 in this fiche.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/500451c6f8700209bc792113/camshaft-chain

When removing the cam cover it is necessary to remove the water pipe and thermostat housing. You will need 3 new O-rings for replacement. This is opening a can of worms, but I use common plumbing O-rings #14 for the water pipe to head connection and #17 for the thermostat housing to water pipe connection. They are available at your local big box store for $3-$4 for a pack of ten each. Been using those for the past 20 years without problems. There will be someone along shortly to advise why that won't work and suggest $10 O-rings.
This is also a good time to replace the coolant since the system will be drained for the valve check.

An Oil Pump Cover gasket may be needed if the cover is removed for the valve check or the cam chain tensioner replacement. Usually the old gasket can be reused if carefully removed. Item #29 in this fiche.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/500451c9f8700209bc79211d/crankcase-cover-1
When removing the Oil Pump Cover the long dowel pin that retains the lower end of the rear chain guide may come out with the cover, be sure to put that back in place before spinning the engine for the valve check.

Also a good time for spark plug replacement.

And a good time for a throttle body sync, especially if any valve shims have been changed.

There are about a dozen other things that could be done while the hood is up.
Others will be glad to add to the list.


dan
 
Looks like a pretty good list to me. Check condition of overflow tank for brittleness/cracks. Problem in early Gen II but not sure about Gen I.
I wouldn't bother buying a shim kit. You end out with a bunch you'll never use and quite possibly not enough of what you really need.
 
When I did mine, I only had one valve out of spec, and another that was in spec but barely. It turned out that swapping those two shims brought both nearly center of spec!

It sucks opening the thing up with the assumption that you won't need shims and then finding out you have to wait for some to arrive, but you may well not need a single one.
 
When I did mine, I only had one valve out of spec, and another that was in spec but barely. It turned out that swapping those two shims brought both nearly center of spec!

It sucks opening the thing up with the assumption that you won't need shims and then finding out you have to wait for some to arrive, but you may well not need a single one.
So, one must have been wider than max clearance (or close to max). Unusual because almost all clearances get less over time. I have never had an FJR valve that was greater than the max clearance.
 
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