Trunk lid retention mount broke, repair options or suggestions?

[Bionicpork]

The lid to the Yamaha trunk is kept from overextending using a retractable reel attached to a mount point inside the trunk. This afternoon the mount point gave way allowing the lid to overextend and popping some of the plastic covers on the outside

Anyone else run into this and have advice for repair options?

 

[garauld]

The broke parts are made from ABS. Do you have the missing pieces? You may be able to use a special glue to put them back together although I have had good luck repairing cracked lids using a soldering iron and ABS filler rods to "weld" them back together. I have some black filler rod I would send you gratis if you need some - just PM me.

 

[Bionicpork]

The broke parts are made from ABS. Do you have the missing pieces? You may be able to use a special glue to put them back together although I have had good luck repairing cracked lids using a soldering iron and ABS filler rods to "weld" them back together. I have some black filler rod I would send you gratis if you need some - just PM me.

I only found one piece of what appears to be a complex puzzle, not enough to attempt a reconstruction

I’m interested in this ABS rod technique, is it like welding where you are melting the existing ABS to fuse with the rod material or more like braising where you are just melting the rod that adheres to the original?

I’m considering just shaving off the original mount then attaching a new fab using screws into the inside bucket, or some sort of adhesive.

 

[JQL]

It happened to me in exactly the same place. I bonded and screwed a metal washer (with a bolt bolted to it) to the outer plastic broken bit. Not as clean as I would like but has been working OK for about a year.

I'll try and take some photos...

 

[JQL]

A couple of photos

 

[Oldjeep]

IF it were me - I would junk the "tape measure" retractor and just mount a static cable like every other brand of luggage has. The Yamaha retractor stuff is unnecessarily complex.

 

[Bionicpork]

IF it were me - I would junk the "tape measure" retractor and just mount a static cable like every other brand of luggage has. The Yamaha retractor stuff is unnecessarily complex.

Eh. then I'd have to make two mount points instead of one. Plus I do like the retractable; I've had wire retainers before and have had issues with my stuff shifting enough to snag the cable causing problems when trying to open, or the cable getting caught in the lid when closing.

 

[Bionicpork]

My temporary fix was to drill a hole in the bottom of the broken mount and use a loop of paracord. No idea if it'll hold, but I figure it can't do more damage.

Of course we all know how temporary fixes like this tend to become permanent unless they fail.

 

[torch]

I’m interested in this ABS rod technique, is it like welding where you are melting the existing ABS to fuse with the rod material or more like braising where you are just melting the rod that adheres to the original?

Closer to the latter. In plastic welding, the materials are not actually melted. One heats things to just above the plastic deformation temp and then applies pressure on the semi-solid rod to make the bond. Takes a bit of practice (in my case, a LOT of practice <lol>).

Overheating the plastic causes thermal degradation which weakens the plastic. Plus it slumps.