FJR1300 Engine replacement

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dcarver

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Location
Creston, CA
Looking to swap a gen2 engine very soon.

Any advice before I blindly dive in?

What say you RadioHowie, 03SilverBullet, OcFJR?

Been there done that?

Lessons learned?

I'll compile and document everything learned then make a 'clean' how-to posting later.

dcarver

 
It's easy, unbolt the old one and bolt the new one in as close as you can remember and see what happens. If it doesn't work then you screwed up and have to start over. No problem. :lol:

 
It's easy, unbolt the old one and bolt the new one in as close as you can remember and see what happens. If it doesn't work then you screwed up and have to start over. No problem. :lol:
Arrrgh. Nice one Ray! :****: :lol:

Is it best to leave the wheels on, put bike on center stand, unbolt and lower engine from the bottom?

--or--

Remove wheels, forks, place on ground and lift frame away from engine?

--or--?

 
It's easy, unbolt the old one and bolt the new one in as close as you can remember and see what happens. If it doesn't work then you screwed up and have to start over. No problem. :lol:
Arrrgh. Nice one Ray! :****: :lol:

Is it best to leave the wheels on, put bike on center stand, unbolt and lower engine from the bottom?

--or--

Remove wheels, forks, place on ground and lift frame away from engine?

--or--?
Never done it but would love to be a fly on the wall when you tear into it!!

The FSM (you have one, right?) says to remove the fender but doesn't say anything about the wheels so I assume its dropped out the bottom.

Take the opportunity to install the upgraded CCT while you have it apart. May want to lube swingarm and rear suspension pivots, u-joint etc while she's stripped.

Good luck and take lots of pictures.

Ross

 
It's easy, unbolt the old one and bolt the new one in as close as you can remember and see what happens. If it doesn't work then you screwed up and have to start over. No problem. :lol:
Arrrgh. Nice one Ray! :****: :lol:

Is it best to leave the wheels on, put bike on center stand, unbolt and lower engine from the bottom?

--or--

Remove wheels, forks, place on ground and lift frame away from engine?

--or--?
Depending on your setup, as far as overhead rafters, what type of jacks you have, I'd say choice #2.

Remove front and rear assemblies, place something like a transmission jack under the motor, lift the bike off the ground from under the motor, unbolt the 9 motor mounts and lift the frame off the bike, either with elbow grease, or with comealong/ratchet straps hung from overhead rafters.

And when I say transmission jack, I mean something like this:

3172.jpg


with a W-I-D-E support plate to really hold the motor balanced well.

And I DON'T mean some floor jack with a measly, round support pad like this:

e8e000a8-6d02-41b5-b607-7d5af73ad6ad_300.jpg


Taking off the complete front steering section will make it much easier to work getting the radiator and headers out. You have to pull the drive shaft out of the motor, so the rear has to come off anyway.

Ideally, if you could hoist the entire bike up with a chain lift through overhead joists, lift up the entire bike, sans front and rear wheel assemblies, and set the whole thing down on a workbench/box set up around waist high, then unbolt the motor and lift the frame off the motor.

That way, everything's up much higher and much easier to work on.

Just remember, when you put it all back together, tighten the left-side motor mounts first, THEN the right.

'Howie

 
It's easy, unbolt the old one and bolt the new one in as close as you can remember and see what happens. If it doesn't work then you screwed up and have to start over. No problem. :lol:
And if there's any parts left over, take a pic and post em here and we'll try to help you identify them and tell you where they go... :rolleyes:

 
As much as I hate to admit it I tend to agree With the Manatee boy. You can have the front and rear off and out of the way in an hour or less. If you have some way to lift the frame off the engine it should be pretty straight foward. Either rafters, tractor, maybe a cherry picker or just brute force and ignorance. There should be plenty of that around this place :) . Make sure you tag all the wires and hoses because at your advanced years you will forget where they go before lunch :p

 
And if there's any parts left over, take a pic and post em here and we'll try to help you identify them and tell you where they go... :rolleyes:
You don't understand. If you have leftover parts and the bike is back together then the parts were obviously not Important. The other advantage is that the. bike is now lighter and is therefore that much more racy.

 
Thank guys, I'll take some pix of what I have available to work with in a bit.

FWIW, my local tech says just drop it from the bottom, bike on centerstand, but that sounds waay to eaaasy for a Creston Kowboy..

 
DC, I guess I missed some threads, but why do you need to a swap the motor? You GenII is only at what about 150k or less right?

 
New engine sounds like a great find Don. Hope it's as advertised and the swap isn't too painful!

DC, I guess I missed some threads, but why do you need to a swap the motor? You GenII is only at what about 150k or less right?
Have a look Here for all the gory details.

-G

 
LOL, woofoo, you crack me up!

On a serious note, man, I sure appreciate all the help I've received on this project, most of which is not published publicly. You peeps who are, know what I mean. :yahoo:

 
LOL, woofoo, you crack me up!

On a serious note, man, I sure appreciate all the help I've received on this project, most of which is not published publicly. You peeps who are, know what I mean. :yahoo:
Pretty much the same advice here. Pull the fork tubes and get them out of the way first. The radiator is a pita, along with the plastic piece behind it. Pay attention to how things are routed thru/around that plastic piece and how it comes out/goes in. You'll need to feed all that wiring and hoses around it when you put things back together.

I used a chain hoist and lifted the frame off the motor. Way easier and better control. If you don't have one, look into renting one. Usually cheap. You don't need a big one. I think the one I used was only rated for 250 lbs and it did fine.

Put the bike on the center stand and pull the rear wheel, drive shaft/diff unit and u-joint. Pull the seat, tank and hook up the frame to the hoist. Pick it up a bit and pull the front wheel and fork tubes. Then go after the cooling system and get that all out of the way.

Now go about unplugging things and removing the airbox, etc. until you can get to all the motor mounts. You may need to remove the TBs, but IIRC, it's not necessary to pull the motor.

FWIW, this is a really good time to do that center stand/swingarm maintenance, before you put the new engine in. :blink:

As SkooterG will tell you, it's also the perfect time to pull the starter, but you probably don't need to go there with the replacement engine.

Good luck, right **** down and take pictures. You'll need them later.

And pay attention to the torque sequence of the motor mounts when you're tightening down the replacement motor. It makes a big difference in vibes.

 
Hi Don,

seems all I can offer is moral support, you have it all. I am sure that with all the combined knowledge around here you will get this job done without a hitch. If not many will know the way forward.

Best regards

Surly

:ph34r:

 
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