Steep, Crooked, and the Shiny Side Up

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hppants

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2011
Messages
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Location
Lafayette, LA
It had been a day of motorcycle nirvana. We did what bikers do – rode places and ate things. The motorcycles ran beautifully. There were no offs, near misses, “oopsies”, or worse. The road was wonderful. There were climbs, descents, technical sections, open sections, long sweepers, lefts, rights, and a few decreasing radii thrown in just for good measure. The Popo took the day off and so did the forest rats. No one over pushed themselves, but by the end of the ride, all chicken strips were far thinner than they were at the beginning. At rest stops, the conversation flowed vividly. We giggled like a kid being tickled by his Grandpa. Everyone shared observations and others listened attentively. It was so much fun. Time flew by like a fart in the wind, and I wished that day would have lasted much longer.

After 250 miles, give or take, we rolled into “home” hungry and thirsty. An hour later, with a belly fully of pizza, we putt-putted to the hotel for some fellowship and a little medicine for the saddle soreness. There, in room 124, the bar was open. As everyone fixed a cocktail, a feeling of inspiration came over me. I was with brothers – one I’ve known for years, and other three I had just met the day before. We shared miles and smiles together and no matter happened next, I knew that I was at peace, with friends, and genuinely happy. I asked my brothers to raise their cup:

“Gentlemen – here’s to steep, crooked, and the shiny side up!”

That was day 3 of my recent 5 day spring trip to the Ozark Mountains in Arkansas. I’ve toured there many times, and I never grow tired of it. The motorcycle riding in Arkansas is fantastic. The motorists are courteous and the people are friendly. The roads are in terrific shape and are very challenging for a rider. I imagine that I will ride in Arkansas regularly for the indefinite future.

I camped on nights 1 and 4, but stayed at the Quality Inn in Harrison for nights 2 and 3 mostly out of caution and concern for the weather. The hotel was clean, quiet, and the rate was reasonable. They put us on the first floor and we could park our bikes right at the room door. These people know how to deal with bikers – I’d recommend them. The variety was nice because I got to experience both the adventure of camping, and the convenience of a hotel.

Overall, the weather was pretty good. On Thursday, we ran north through some showers and a little high wind and Friday the others rode south from pretty cold temperatures. On Saturday morning, temperatures were in the mid-30s on lower elevations, and up top, we saw a few flurries and the road got kind of squirrely for a short time. I don’t care to do that again. However Saturday afternoon through Monday was fantastic, although the temperature swing was vast. Sunday morning, we left the hotel in the mid-30s, and by the time I got home on Monday, my jewels were roasting in the mid-80s. I packed more for this than I usually pack on a 10 day tour.

The inspiration for this 1600 mile trip was started by Cav47, a 2004 FJR rider from Illinois. A self-proclaimed and outspoken Jock, Cav is a school teacher with a wife and 4 kids. I get the feeling that he started this idea just because at the time, he wanted something exciting to look forward to that didn’t involve snow, kids, or bill payments. If my suspicion is correct, I wouldn’t blame him one bit.

I invited many of my friends to join me, and was pleasantly surprised to learn that 3 of them accepted my invitation. Unfortunately, one buddy came down with a sick kid the night before our departure, and another was inadequately prepared for the diversity of weather a rider can encounter in the Ozarks during late March. My third friend, Jonjonboo, made it on his trusty ST1300 and we had a blast.

In addition to Cav47, Jon and I were joined by Allen, a financial analyst from Indianapolis, on his gorgeous 2014 red FJR-ES (electronic suspension). A man of few words, when Allen says something, it’s meaningful. Allen’s a good rider – very attentive and never makes a mistake. Always keeps good following distance, puts his bike in the best lane position, and clearly knows his limits.

Finally, Poolboy joined us from Council Bluffs, Iowa on his 2009 FJR. Originally named after his profession, Poolboy is what we at home would affectionately label a “Good Ole Boy”. I get the impression that not much bothers him. He can tell a good joke and displays a warm but boisterous laugh when others do the same. Poolboy’s riding style is a little less aggressive, and he was happy to ride sweep throughout the weekend.

So my brothers and I had a good time. I hope you enjoy the pics.

Day 1, Thursday, Lafayette, LA – Lake Nimrod, Arkansas, approximately 415 miles.

Ride Route:

https://goo.gl/maps/KASbj

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With a long ride ahead, I packed on Wednesday night and set the clock for 5 am. As is usually the case, I beat the alarm clock by quite a bit, unable to control my excitement. I was surprised with a text message from my friend Mike, indicating that he’d been up during the night with a sick kid, and he was going to pass on the trip. Another friend Byron had also cancelled the night before. Although we had been discussing this trip for weeks, Byron informed me that he only had a mesh jacket with 1 liner. With the temperatures forecast to be well below 40 over the weekend, he understandably bailed on me.

No worries for Pants, I know the way easily so at about 5:45, I mounted the big blue girl and pointed her north.

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After about 120 miles, I met John in the piney woods of central Louisiana. Our bikes and their riders go well together.

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With showers in the forecast, John and I figured we would take US Hwy 167 into Arkansas. The road is more open and there are countless places to pull over and get out of the weather, should the need arise. The plan was to watch the radar during the day. If the skies allowed, we would camp. If not, we would find a hotel and stay dry. This is an integral part of the adventure. There is no rush to get there because we have no idea where we are going. I highly recommend this method.

For a short time, just outside of Junction City (on the border of Louisiana/Arkansas), John and I got separated by a slow moving truck. Eventually, I got around the truck and as I pulled into town, I was pulled over by a Union Parish Sherriff’s Deputy. He ran my license and then approached:

(Deputy) “Do you know why I pulled you over?

(Pants) “I’m going to assume speeding?

(Deputy) “The speed limit here is 45.”

(Pants) “How fast was I going?”

(Deputy) “I clocked you at 48 right there.”

(Pants, thinking) “Really – WTF is this?”

(Deputy) “You need to slow down when you are coming through town.”

(Pants, still thinking) “Oh thanks for that Barney. Like I was doing 48 for the past 100 miles on a 65 mph limit US Highway and just didn’t think to release my throttle lock! Don’t you have a donut shop to visit? *****!”

(Deputy) “I’ll let you go now, have a nice day.”

(Pants) “Thanks officer!”

We pulled into Camden, Arkansas right about lunch time. I thought this place looked inviting.

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While we waited on our food, a quick check of the radar reveals that things are fixing to change, but if we keep riding north, the future looks bright.

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Chicken and Dressing with trimmings – I’ve never had this dish. Pretty tasty.

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We split a slice of cheese cake for dessert.

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While eating, a couple of locals were chewing the fat with us. This inevitably happens on every bike tour. The motorcycle is like a conversation magnet. I often wonder if these people are genuinely and naturally conversationalists or perhaps they find unique inspiration with us because of their desire to know about our adventure. Regardless, I always enjoy this part of the trip.

As it turns out in this case, it was a true blessing. Highway 7 just north of us is flooded by the Ouachita River overrunning its banks. We would be forced to turn around and detour. I pulled the map out and this nice lady gave me great directions on a detour that only cost us a few miles. With the skies unzipping, we threw on the rain gear and pressed on. The rain was moderate and there were some high winds, but the sport touring bikes offer good protection and we stayed bone dry under our gear. We actually enjoyed the rainy ride, and were content to hold back our right wrist and take it all in.

Mid afternoon, as we roll into Hot Springs, the weather is improving by the minute, and it looks like we will be able to camp after all. With that in mind, we have got to get our priorities straight. First things first….

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I was still full from lunch and not particularly inspired to cook, so we picked up a sandwich for later.

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North of Hot Springs, Highway 7 leads us into the trees and the roller coaster ride begins. Around 3:30 pm, we enter the campground at Lake Nimrod, Arkansas. This is a recreation area run by the Army Corp of Engineers. I’ve never camped at an ACOE site that I didn’t love.

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We selected a site on the water downstream from the control structure. Very peaceful here.

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Soon, we had our camp setup and we are in full vacation mode.

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Nothing like a little fermented Agave plant to kick start Happy Hour!

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Sometime after lunch, my GPS quit charging. After I got the load off my seat (both live and dead load), I discovered the problem.

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My USB adapter was coming apart and must have shorted something.

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This should get me going until I can replace it.

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With refreshments in hand, we walked over to the control structure. That is an incredible amount of water ripping through there.

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Cheers to you, John!

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John picked up this Bavarian beer at the liquor store. I’d never tried it, and he was nice enough to share. Pretty good stuff and I like the little ram tag thingie.

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Not a bad looking sandwich either.

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So I’m drinking Bavarian beer and eating a sandwich by the fire on Lake Nimrod. Not a bad start to a great trip.

Day 2, Lake Nimrod, Arkansas to Harrison Arkansas, approximately 200 miles.

Ride Route:

https://goo.gl/maps/5reWW

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I slept like a rock. The campground was very quiet and the birds even took a little extra time before starting their morning songs of praise. In good weather, with the right gear, motorcycle camping is hard to beat.

We fixed coffee and breakfast…..

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….and then broke camp and loaded the bikes. Today, we will take a nice and familiar loop to Harrison and meet the others. We rode through Lake Dardanelle, which is near Dardanelle, Arkansas. I thought about my friend Bug Doctor, whom lives there and I met years ago on a Honda STOC (S/T Owners Club) event. I hoped he was doing well.

Crossing I-40 at Clarksville, we pushed north up the mountain to a favorite lunch destination of mine.

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The Oark Café is a rite of passage for any biker. Located smack dab in the middle of nowhere, the riding to this place from just about any direction is fantastic.

Oh – and they have PIE. LOTS of PIE!!!

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John ordered a chicken sandwich and I got the BLT – they use that extra thick slice bacon and I like it. (sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, but I suppose crappy food **** is better than no food ****)

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And then we had…. PIE!

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After lunch, we rode north on Hwy 215 along the Mulberry River. The tree on the upper elevations have not yet budded.

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Sometimes a picture is worth 1,000 words. I couldn’t agree more, John.

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The road is in good shape. It’s dry and seems very grippy. John would later tell me that in some curves, I was kicking up some debris, even though for the most part, I couldn’t tell.

For the most part, that is.

On this particular curve, the bike slid on me and when I stood it up, the front end wobbled twice violently. No harm, no foul but my nerves were a little shaky and we took a break.

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Good riding in the Ozarks.

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Continuing northeast, highway 43 pops us out of the mountains in the Boxley Valley/Ponca area. This is the place where elk were re-introduced to Arkansas a few years back.

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We were fortunate to see a group near the road. The bulls have shed their antlers already.

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We chose to ride this route because I wanted to take a walk here.

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I’ve passed up this place numerous times and always heard it was a nice easy hike to some beautiful sights. Right from the parking lot, it looks inviting.

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Lots of people were exploring the area.

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A rock hound would have a ball at this place.

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John’s having a good time too!

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We found this waterfall at the top of the trail. It’s flowing pretty good today.

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There are a few caves in the areas where we could wander around.

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It was a nice 2 mile walk to stretch out our legs.

Back on the bikes, it’s turned out to be a gorgeous day.

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We rode about a mile to visit the Ponca Elk Center.

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I enjoyed walking around and looking at the displays.

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Then it was just a short ride to the hotel in Harrison.

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With great timing, Poolboy showed up within minutes after we did. We got acquainted and decided to get some dinner. I told John that I was craving salad and he told me about this inexpensive place to get a decent chicken salad.

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I hadn’t been there in at least 10 years, but I gotta tell ya, the salad was pretty good for $4 bucks.

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In route to the hotel, we stopped for some refreshment (very conveniently right across the street from the hotel).

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Allen and Cav47 showed up around 8 pm. We learned that Allen lowsided his bike within walking distance of his house early that morning. Apparently, he fell when an unscrubbed brand new front tire washed out from under him. Thankfully, he was not hurt and his bike and gear was only cosmetically damaged. Allen rode the 500 plus miles thereafter – props to you my friend!

Allen and Cav47 left their homes in sub-30 degree temps and were damm glad to make it. We flapped our beaks a while longer and called it a night. Life is good – I’m in my zen now.

Day 3, Loop starting and finishing in Harrison, approximately 240 miles

Ride Route:

https://goo.gl/maps/QxWDu

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I woke up typically early rested and excited about riding with my new buddies. Thankfully, John wore his ear plugs last night as I am certain that I snored from my exhaustion.

The weather could be better this morning. This is why I don’t play the lottery

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Regardless, we came here to ride so after breakfast, we geared up and prepared for the ride. Everyone is ready for the adventure. Pictured from left: John, Poolboy, (Pants), Allen, and Cav47.

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Poolboy’s gas pump was out of order but it didn’t matter. With that Tag-a-long extra fuel tank, he’s rocking about 11 gallons of petrol

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We decided to go back to the Oark Store for lunch. It really doesn’t matter much to me – the riding is good in every direction from where we are now.

The road is mixed dry in some spots, semi-wet in others, and full wet in still other spots. Given this, as I lead the group west, I’m in no big hurry. I stopped at the Boxley Vally to make sure everyone was satisfied with the ride.

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I guess everyone is feeling allright, but here it’s kind of hard to tell.

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I look again at the radar and I can see it is getting better from the northwest, but we are still heading a little south, so we press on gingerly on Hwy 43, observing hundreds of elk in the pastures as we ride by.

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As we climb back into the mountains, I’m seeing an occasional flurry in front of me and although I don’t have a thermometer on my bike, I know the temperature is dropping. Somewhere near Pettigrew, Arkansas, the road was fully wet and the black stuff in the center of the lane is starting to worry me. As I cross it within a very gentle curve, my bike slides out from under me. I look back and both John and Allen are sliding as well. I make an executive decision and decide to get off the road for a break. In an amazing coincidence, we happened to be at the same cemetery that John and I stopped at the day before.

Here, John is explaining how a dark-sided ST1300 deals with black ice!

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We hang out for an hour while the sun breaks through the clouds and the road starts to dry. Then we press forward on Hwy 16 and by the time we turn south on Hwy 23 (aka The Pig Trail), the road is bone dry and we can turn our wrist loose. We pull into the Oark Store about 12:30 for some well deserved lunch.

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In the background are a bunch of adventure riders. I hear someone over there say “What’s up Pants?” and I was surprised to see, of all people, my buddy Bug Doctor to whom I day dreamed about just the day before. It’s a small world, indeed.

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By burger was delicious.

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Pie all around as well!

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After lunch, we rode down the mountain to Clarksville for some gas. Then we turned north east onto my favorite road in the State, Hwy 123. This is on the bridge at Haw Creek.

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We stopped near Mt. Judea at yet another old cemetery to take a break.

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This is a good place to take some riding shots. Cav47 was up for it.

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Killboy, eat your heart out!

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I detoured just a few miles to show the guys the Buffalo River crossing at Hasty.

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Nice view of the river from the bridge.

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This is our rock band shot.

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And this is our get-well card for our friend Beemer Don!!!

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What a great ride we are having today. Just before Harrison, we stop at Poolboy’s campsite to pickup his firewater.

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As we roll into Harrison, our stomachs are calling to us, so we stopped at a gourmet pizza place that John and I had eaten before (The Brick Oven). Cheers to everyone!

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Cav47 looks like he has got his eye on John’s pizza!

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With a belly fully of carbs, we wobbled over to our hotel room for some more refreshments. I never tried rye whiskey before and I like it very much.

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We drank a few while reminiscing about the great day. Then we hit the sack to dream about more adventure.

Day 4, Harrison, Arkansas to Lake Nimrod, Arkansas, Approximately 250 miles

Ride Route:

https://goo.gl/maps/NtyUP

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As is usually the case, I slept like a baby. I mean I closed my eyes and in what seemed like 30 seconds, it was morning. John has decided that he will go home today. Facing an imminent layoff, John quit his job just before the trip and was feeling a need to go home and re-group. As always, I enjoyed being with my friend and wished him a safe ride home. I later learned that he hooked up with some adventure riders and had a great ride to his house.

I loaded my horse and taxied over to the other side of the hotel to meet the others. Everyone seems to be in good spirits.

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This dude cracks me up, man.

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I mapped out a nice ride from Harrison north toward Bull Shoals, then east over to Push Mountain. From there, we would ride south together until the others felt like they were far enough from the hotel, at which point we would part ways.

For the early run, I stuck my camera over my neck and took some action shots. The face shield on Allen’s helmet is rashed a little from his low side. ATGATT

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A little bonding moment!

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The weather is absolutely gorgeous today. The air is crisp and the FJRs are feeling a little frisky in the cool, dense morning.

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Look mom, no hands!

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We stopped at this gas station but it was closed. Although Poolboy has enough gas to go around, unfortunately, his is running low on gasoline.

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Allen has a really fancy tank bag that attaches to the gas cap flange.

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After a fuel stop, we headed over to the Push Mountain Road.

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What a friggin hoot! Silly smooth pavement with TONS of grip and wonderful curves. Once I realize that the curves were gravel free, I turned the horses loose and let the big girl sing. I’m railing in 3rd gear at around 5-6K and I can hear her roaring through my ear plugs. We startled a deer, a turkey, and a few squirrels, but fortunately all got out of the way in plenty of time. At the end of the road (Junction with Hwy 14), we stopped to giggle a little.

Uh yeppers – this is my kind of riding.

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And it looks like its going to stay that way for a while.

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We turn south onto Hwy 27 and roll into the map dot town of Marshall, Arkansas. We are just in time for lunch and something is smelling pretty darn good from this place.

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And you can have all this for $9.95. But wait – there’s more!

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Nobody’s gonna go hungry today.

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After lunch, we continue south on Hwy 27 and this road is wonderful.

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We all mentioned seeing this little bridge and decided to turn back and go check it out. What a fantastic afternoon.

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Sometimes you just gotta take the plunge!

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Cav47 came up with a great idea to leave a geocache here. So we all pitched in and made it happen.

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I marked the rock “HP”

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Shhhhh Allen – don’t tell anyone our secret.

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We found this little waterfall on the side of the road.

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I stopped in the town of Hector, Arkansas for an afternoon treat.

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I rode Push Mountain, and I’ve got the tires to prove it!

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We met this couple from Baton Rouge riding a Connie and they decided to tag along for a while.

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I led us a short distance to Dover, Arkansas at the intersection of Hwy 7. It’s around 3:30 pm and time for us to split ways. I bid everyone “so long, but not goodbye”. It was great meeting some new friends and I look forward to seeing them again some time.

I turned south on Hwy 7 and stopped for gas in Russellville. By now, it’s getting late and after my 1500 calorie lunch, I don’t feel much like cooking for just myself. So I picked up a subway and stuck it in my top box for later.

I chose to camp at Lake Nimrod again, but this time I picked the campground on the north shore of the lake. The whole campground is practically empty and I picked a nice site on the lake shore.

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As the sun begins to set, I fixed myself a cocktail and took a walk around the park. I’m interpreting this sign to mean “not on the lake”. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

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I sat on a rock to be quiet and enjoy the sunset. There were no worries, no concerns, no anticipation of tomorrow nor reflection of yesterday. There was just the here and now. I was alone but far from lonely as my thoughts were keeping me very good company. It was so peaceful and I felt blessed and very thankful to be there.

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I walked back to my site, lit the fire, and enjoyed my supper.

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I lit my pipe and fed the fire for an hour or two – a very good end to a very good day.

Day 5, Lake Nimrod, Arkansas to Lafayette, Louisiana, approximately 470 miles

Ride Route:

https://goo.gl/maps/qn40K

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The birds woke me up at around 6:30 am. I made some coffee and had a pleasant conversation with an old timer that had been camping and fishing there for a couple of weeks. Then I packed and loaded my bike up.

In case you are wondering, this is what goes into my dry bag.

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I pulled out the campground about 830. Today I go home, but the weather is so nice I feel like taking my time. I stopped at this lake to reflect, and see the reflection.

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No traffic on hwy 7 this morning.

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Around 10 am, I pull into Lake Degrey State Park to take a break. This “CYA signage” **** is really getting out of hand.

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It’s kind of windy today on the lake.

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I’ve always wanted to check this place out near El Dorado, Arkansas and today is my lucky day.

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The museum tells the story of the striking of oil in southern Arkansas during the early 20th century.

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The displays are very interactive.

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The elevator is a “time machine” that sends you below ground to see where oil comes from.

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You can see the “fossel fuels” through the glass wall in the elevator – real neat idea.

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The lower level is setup like a boom town with all of the various services and industries.

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This was a 1500 year old champion yellow pine tree.

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After I toured the museum, I realized that it was lunch time and I was pretty hungry. Although I didn’t have much options, I decided to grab whatever I had and make a picnic out of it.

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Then I walked around the little outdoor park to the museum.

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I crossed the State line in Junction City, and at a leisurely 44 mph, rode by and waved to the same Popo that had stopped me a few days prior. This time I was not pulled over.

I turned on to Hwy 9, which is a more scenic route south than US Hwy 167. As the afternoon wore on, and I continued more south, the weather warmed up a lot and I was sweating in my over pants.

“Hey Buddy, where’s the potty station?”

“Thanks!”

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I stopped in Homer, Louisiana for fuel. Then I rode the remaining 240 miles straight home. I picked up I-49 in Natchitoches and as luck would have it, I was passed by a bird dog running about 90 almost immediately. I tucked in about 1/8 mile behind and followed him almost 150 miles to Lafayette.

Back at the driveway, my bike and helmet looked like they could use a bucket of soap.

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But it was 6 pm and I was beat. My wife was happy to see me, and see that I made it home safe. The feeling was mutual - I threw everything in my shop and took her out to eat.

As I removed my helmet and kissed her hello, she asked me “how was the trip?”

“It was steep, crooked, and we kept the shiny side up!”

Stay thirsty, my friends.

 
Thanks for sharing! This makes me want to get out and ride!

 
Very Nice! I wish I could've gone. I worked for a consulting engineering firm many years ago and spent several summers working in the Ozarks. It's a beautiful area. Great story and fantastic photo's.

 
Damn, I was there and am impressed with the ride report you created of the adventure! Can't wait for the next time...

 
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Not only are his ride reports first class, but so is Pants. I echo what Allen said about how creative you weave the events together. It was such a good time. I had such a good time and 4 days riding flew by.

If it is okay, I will add some pictures and words on here next week when I get to my laptop at school.

 
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