Gen 1 Missing and Stumbling

japperman · Dec 29, 2017

Hello everyone,

Bought at 2004 FJR1300 and thanks to all of you I am working all of the bugs out of it.

Love the bike.

Has a slow speed missing problem that appears to be happening on cylinders 1 and 4 so

am waiting for a new coil to arrive.

Thanks for all the info.

Jasper

Eagle Six · Dec 29, 2017

Hi Jasper, you didn't get any of that good information from me, as I'm still a newbie here, but Welcome and hope the coil takes care of the missing problem.

Uncle Hud · Dec 29, 2017

Welcome to the Forum, japperman. Lots of old guys here with sport touring bikes.

Do an Advanced Serach (gear icon to the right of the search box) for "ignition coil" -- and use the quotation marks. Leave all the other fields blank, although you might want to search in topic titles only.

Searching in titles and text, I got 122 hits. Maybe one of them will help you with your issue.

For what it's worth, my 2015 (57,000 miles) has a hiccup when accelerating WOT (wide open throttle). I always ride in Touring mode, and when I pin the throttle, it feels like the old girl takes a second to realize I mean business. Happens around 4,000 to 4,500 rpm, but only in the original gear. Once I shift up, there's no further hiccuping. Also, once I shift up, I'm at illegal speeds before you can say, "Giddyup!"

My favorites sections of the Forum are here and here. Get out to shake a few hands; it's the best way to appreciate your FJR.

owsley · Dec 29, 2017

Welcome Jasper

BkerChuck · Jan 2, 2018

Welcome aboard!

japperman · Jan 10, 2018

Hello,

I just purchased a 2004 FJR1300ABS and it misses at idle and requires a lot of throttle from a stop to keep it from stumbling.

I have checked and cleaned and applied conductive grease to the oxidized wire harness under the gas tank. I also check the

coils for resistance and the plug wire to plug ends for corrosion. It also has new plugs. At speed it seems ok but it is hard to tell.

I have an IR temp gun and can see that cyls 1 and 4 run 100 degrees cooler than cyls 1 and 4. So I was thinking coil.

I purchased a used coil (ordered a new one 60 days eta) and it runs the same.

Was thinking a compression test next but thought I would ask for any ideas

Thanks.

Jasper

Canadian FJR · Jan 10, 2018

Any idea if the valves were checked recently. Timing may be a tooth off. Very common.

Canadian FJR

fjrob1300 · Jan 10, 2018

Canadian FJR said:
Any idea if the valves were checked recently. Timing may be a tooth off. Very common.

Canadian FJR

I'd look here too. Mine was out 2 teeth on the cam. idle was rough but ran fine at speed.

escapefjrtist · Jan 10, 2018

Lots of questions come to mind...back to basics before assuming anything - air, fuel, spark.

What's the hot idle speed? How many miles on the machine?

Has the bike been sitting for some time?

--G

Ignacio · Jan 10, 2018

A little thread duplication going on. Merged two so the wheel lug nuts don't have to be reinvented.

japperman · Jan 10, 2018

Thanks all.

The bike has a little over 55k Miles on it. I have taken the bike on two trips over 600 miles and several shorter ones.

I don't know about the valve adjustment. I have set the idle speed about 1100. The temp on the exhaust is the same difference whether at idle

or around 3000 rpm. Cyls 1 and 4 definitely less then 2 and 3. Did not know the timing could skip a tooth and still run.

I really thought the coil would be the problem. I don't know what else would affect the two outside cylinders.

The bike was sitting for some time before I purchased it.

Thanks for all the ideas.

I will keep you posted.

Jasper

SkooterG · Jan 11, 2018

Wouldn't the two outside cylinders always run cooler? As smarty-pants George suggested above, make sure you cover the basics first: Try an idle speed around 1300 rpm to see if that helps, perform a Throttle Body Sync, and if the bike sat for a long time getting the fuel injectors cleaned and matched wouldn't be a bad idea. Also, did the the original Throttle Position Sensor get replaced? Early FJRs had bad ones and back in the day Yamaha would replace them for free. Though a bad TPS usually manifests itself as a stumble at speed. You can call mother ship Yamaha and find out if your VIN had the TPS replaced.

Frankly, based on your description it sounds more like an idle speed issue to me. While a bad coil is certainly possible, that would be a very rare event from what I have seen in my 13 years around here.

raesewell · Jan 11, 2018

Don't overlook the TPS I have a thread on it somewhere. Easy and quick job.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/173145-adjusting-throttle-position-sensor/?hl=%2Bthrottle+%2Bposition+%2Bsensor

TownsendsFJR1300 · Jan 13, 2018

Plus1^^. The 04 model had a re-call for the TPS. Possibly your issue, but it can cause major running issues. It's a free replacement if not already done.

Also, check under the fuel tank. There's a large connecter that would collect water and the connectors would turn green with corrosion.

For me the result was hesitation, some misfiring. Once cleaned, ran like a top!

TripperMike · Jan 13, 2018

With 2 & 3 running hotter, could it be like Scooter suggested, dirty injectors causing those 2 cylinders to be running leaner?

mech 1 twa · Jan 13, 2018

Second or third the TPMS. Just off idle stumble mis-fire. 05 had same issue. New part all is good.

Bustanut joker · Jan 13, 2018

Purely speculation here but it seems to me if the TPS was the cause wouldn't all cylinders be affected?
I'm more inclined to think valve clearance or coil as opposed to timing as once again only two cylinders are involved.

Edit. I hate to say it but scooter and mike might also be right.

japperman · Jan 13, 2018

Everyone,

Thanks for all the input. I have put it into DIAG and the TPS displays a very smooth increase as you test the throttle. I could not make it act up.

I also got to thinking that the cool pipes could actually be the result of the PAIR system (thinking that the reed valves may be stuck on those cylinders).

I am going to block off the PAIR system tomorrow and re-test. I pulled the #4 plug and it is showing rich (black dry - not oil but rich or missing).

The wiring connector under the gas tank did have corrosion. I cleaned it with contact cleaner and then did a little rubbing and applied dielectric grease.

But am not sure I did a good enough job. I may re-do that repair with a pick and some emery cloth.

It has been a little cold here so even in the garage...... Tomorrow it is supposed to warm up a little.

Will keep you posted.

Thanks again.

Jasper

TownsendsFJR1300 · Jan 14, 2018

That corrosion you also have/had was my issue (still under warranty) years gone back. The dealer couldn't find the issue(nor could Mama Yamaha in Ca).

It was a common issue back then and the fix was found here back here in 2004/2005. I knew immediately as soon as I rolled into the street it ran normal again.

I never fouled a plug, but you want to replace that plug or at least verify it is sparking now.

I also added dielectric grease, never had an issue again with that connector / bike...

Also, re the TPS, often, you won't see the #'s missing /skipping doing the check. It'll act up when hot. Call Yamaha headquarters, give them your Vin # and they can let you know if it's been replaced or not. It's a safety issue and the fix is free (if never changed out).

If neither pan out for you, some checking of voltages (or lack of) going to the coils and comparing will help you from throwing parts at it...

Gen 1 Missing and Stumbling

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