I started using blue ice, non toxic, all the racers use it, expensive though.
I hate to burst your bubble but generally anything a racer uses is not very applicable to street use and because a "racer" uses it is in no means an endorsement that anything works or is applicable to your situation.
If the "blue ice" is indeed coolant and it is non-toxic then it is propyleneglycol and is NOT the best thing for your FJR. High output aluminum engines need very rapid coolant transfer...i.e..high coolant flow rates. Propyleneglycol is more viscous than ethyleneglycol, therefore it flows slower and is counterproductive for good cooling.
Since the product is intended for racing use I suspect it is not a coolant, per se, at least not in the sense that we think of coolants for street use. Street systems designed for day to day use need a coolant like ethyleneglycol mixed 50/50 with water for increased boiling temperature and decreased freezing temperature as well as corrosion protection. Most all racing tracks and sanctioning bodies require vehicles competing to run plain water, however. Plain water just evaporates when spilled on the track....i.e...crashes....where ethyleneglycol and/or propyleneglycol are very slippery, very hard to clean up and very very flammable. That is why EG and PG are banned from use in most pure racing situations. If "blue ice" is a racer specific product then it likely does NOT provide the protection of a "coolant" and you are kidding yourself if you think it is the correct thing for your FJR.
Any references to the stuff?? I wasn't able to find it in a quick google search so I really don't know much about it. There is really no reason to use it, however, as plain old green silicated coolant available in any autoparts or discount store will provide the best performance and protection in the FJR (or other production vehicle) system.
As long as I am hacking on aftermarket crap...er...ah..."coolants" the same holds true for "water wetter" and other similar products. Maybe a minor minor improvement in cooling in a pure water race situation but no advantage at all for passenger vehicle systems and certainly counterproductive in ethyleneglycol systems.
Remember that cooling systems have to do two things. They rid the engine of heat rejected thru cylinder walls and the head least it overheat. This is called "keeping the guage in the green". Secondly, cooling systems eliminate any hot spots inside the engine and reduce or eliminate thermal gradients thoughout the engine to reduce thermal stresses on gaskets, seals, structure, etc. This is an unseen necessity that is difficult if not impossible to measure or monitor. Just because "the gauge is in the green" does NOT mean the cooling system is working correctly nor does it mean that the engine is happy inside. This is important to understand before modifying the cooling system or the coolant because simply watching engine temperature on the gauge is NOT the final word on "cooling". Rapid coolant exchange rates is critical to eliminating thermal gradients therefore increasing viscosity (like by using propyleneglycol) is almost guaranteed to be negative for engine thermal stress even if the "guage is in the green". Same for slowing down coolant flow by putting larger pulleys on the water pump on your street rod. Bad idea. Whoever started the myth that "slowing down the coolant so it can gather more heat and reject more heat" should be shot.
About the only thing to put in the radiator (other than Green/DexCool and distilled water 50/50) is the BarsLeak "golden seal" sealant material that comes in the small tube as a golden colored powder. THAT stuff is VERY effective at sealing coolant leaks and seapages and is VERY effective in automotive systems at preventing coolant leaks into the oil due to internal porosity in castings or gaskets. BarsLeak golden seal powder is a perfect thing to add to your emergency kit as it can easily get you home from a long trip when a stone pokes a hole in a radiator or some other cooling system leak occurs. It will NOT plug heater cores or radiators or cooling passages as is oft reported. Nonsense. If a heater core plugs it is likely due to gelled old silicated coolant and then the Bars material collects in the area and gets the blame. Carry the specific Bars product "golden seal" as an excellent emergency means of fixing a coolant system leak for a lengthy period. I use the stuff in all my cooling systems simply as preventative insurance against unseen internal leaks and carrry it for emergency use on the FJR, snowmobiles, etc.....
