Soltek HID Switch

I need a switch to fit around the left grip, spst, normally open, one that positively turns on and off e.g. not a momentary switch. BikeEffects came sooo close, but this one is momentary. I don't want to have to press the button to keep the lights on. Something like this one, but not momentary, would be perfect.

I don't want the switch location to require me taking my hands off the grip. I already have too many items that require hands free operation; gps, radar, sound level, scratching my butt, etc.



I suppose I could use this switch with a 555 timer set to latch on/off but prefer to simplifly. Other conditions are the switch must be waterproof, look clean, and be 'of quality'.

Any ideas? Anyone seen a cool grip switch setup for something else?

Tx -

looking at that switch box from what i can see, maybe you can use that box and just put a different switch in it

dcarver said:

Any ideas?

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Easy solution.....

If you are in a situation where you can run the Solteks, then obviously, you are in a position to run high beams anyway, no?

So just wire the Soltek relay such that when you hit the high-beam switch as normal, the Solteks fire off.

Even better: install a heavy-duty, double-pole, double throw, center-off toggle switch, with the signal wire for the Soltek relay connected to the center poles.

One side is connected to a hot-lead, the other is connected to your high beam.

Throw the toggle switch to your high-beam setting. Now your Solteks light off when you hit your stock high-beam switch, which meets your criteria of not having to remove your hand away from the grip. The Solteks extinguish when you flip back to low-beam setting.

The other toggle switch setting keeps the Solteks lit off regardless of high-beam/lo-beam setting.

Here's your schematic:

I wired in an Autoswitch which uses your high/low switch to activate them. When you trigger the Solteks the high beams go off saving some power for other stuff . . . .

LINK

Yeah, what Warchild said. I have my Soltek's wired up this way and they work great. I mounted the rubber-booted DPDT switch in the panel where the knob for the grip warmer goes on the AE models, and the relay right next to it. But I'm going to be moving it shortly so I can mount a Datel voltmeter there instead.

LDRydr said:

Yeah, what Warchild said. I have my Soltek's wired up this way and they work great. I mounted the rubber-booted DPDT switch in the panel

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Exactly. In fact, this describes the switch that controls the HID Low-Beam in my Busa:

How about what I said ? Is there any known problems ?, I'd definetly move into another switch like you're describing if you know something I don't. Someone please enlighten me !

Set up independent of the stock wiring so if your lights go dark ( like they did ! ) you'll still have lighting available.

FJRobert said:

How about what I said ? Is there any known problems ?, I'd definetly move into another switch like you're describing if you know something I don't. Someone please enlighten me !

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No, no.... I haven't hear anything adverse about the Autoswitch... it's just that they cost a good $25-$30 or more, and the DPDT switch is more like $5, thereabouts.

Thanks ! I thought maybe failure was in my future. I've ran it for a few months now with no problem. I like the fact it is your normal way to dim that you use & no extra switch to mount. Only minor problem is a small delay when switching.

FJRobert said:

Thanks ! I thought maybe failure was in my future. I've ran it for a few months now with no problem. I like the fact it is your normal way to dim that you use & no extra switch to mount. Only minor problem is a small delay when switching.

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That's what I have, the AutoSwitch.
Soo, if thundering down a dark two lane road, and you blow the 25 amp regular lo/hi fuse guess what? Or if the 'engine running' relay fails, then no OEM circuit and no Autoswitch and no Soltek light either.

The solution Dale offers is correct... Use the Autoswitch when all systems are go. If the OEM circuit fails, place the toggle switch to 'direct' B+ wiring for the Solteks; and you're back in business. Sure, may have to cock the Solteks down and to the right to prevent blinding oncoming traffic, but at least you're not STRANDED and Dancin' in the Dark.

Great idea WC. Thanks.

I've lost my ig switch at 70+ on a Rally after midnight & had all go out in the dark ! BTDT . . . . . I guess I haven't heard of anyone losing just their lights, Can you verify that has happened ? Thanks , Hope I don't have loss of lights on my 50cc to IBA Party first week of next month .

I'll know Saturday afternoon for sure what happened with mine.

FJRobert said:

I've lost my ig switch at 70+ on a Rally after midnight & had all go out in the dark ! BTDT . . . . . I guess I haven't heard of anyone losing just their lights, Can you verify that has happened ? Thanks , Hope I don't have loss of lights on my 50cc to IBA Party first week of next month .

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Uhm...earth to Robert....it DID happen to Don, Y'all wunna be reedin this-hyar!. That's what led to the current discussion on this thread.

Forgot to add that WC switch with backup is definetly a better approach . . .

dcarver said:

I already have too many items that require hands free operation; gps, radar, sound level, scratching my butt, etc.

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I hate to state the obvious, but you could just keep the momentary switch and install a butt scratcher.

madmike2 said:

FJRobert said:

I've lost my ig switch at 70+ on a Rally after midnight & had all go out in the dark ! BTDT . . . . . I guess I haven't heard of anyone losing just their lights, Can you verify that has happened ? Thanks , Hope I don't have loss of lights on my 50cc to IBA Party first week of next month .

Click to expand...

Uhm...earth to Robert....it DID happen to Don, Y'all wunna be reedin this-hyar!. That's what led to the current discussion on this thread.

Click to expand...

Thanks MM2 , I'm on this site several hours a day & missed it ! I did try to ask about losing just lights and no response from anyone. He lost more than lights I see after reading the post. . .I'm just glad I was able to repair mine (bypass ig switch) & still finish the Rally after dickin around for a few hours.

HIGHLANDER said:

Set up independent of the stock wiring so if your lights go dark ( like they did ! ) you'll still have lighting available.

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And that switch location is about as convenient as it gets! Easier to hit than the high-beam switch, IMO....

Wonder where the switch came from ? I think I might move in that direction. . .