Soltek HID Switch

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Wonder where the switch came from ? I think I might move in that direction. . .
Ordered mine from Digi-Key, less than a buck a piece so I ordered 6 so I'd have spares. I used another to active the Datel meter. Broke two cause I'm ham fisted and hate delicate work. It's a tight fit as TC says, soldering required, and a little modding of the inside of the case.

Part # CH 755-ND

Also bought # 355-1011-ND as a rain cover that'd need to be glued on but haven't found the need yet.

 
Set up independent of the stock wiring so if your lights go dark ( like they did ! ) you'll still have lighting available.
IMG_1312.jpg
And that switch location is about as convenient as it gets! Easier to hit than the high-beam switch, IMO....
EXACTLY what I'm looking for. I assume this is the left hand grip, which is pefect,

How did you cut the hole in the metal? I'm such a klutz... Your's is very pro looking..

If you have tips on how to do this I'll attempt surgery...

 
The location is where the flash to pass button is located on the euro bikes, us yanks have a blank out plate in that spot.

The housing is all plastic, so just file the hole larger to make the switch fit, gut the interior webs inside the housing, bend the switch legs a little for bar clearance and solder the wires, some liquid black tape.........easy........ but finesse is required ! :rolleyes:

 
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Thanks for the info HIGHLANDER ! Going to be an excellent future addition for me. Just ordered a few . . .

 
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I decided not to wait & hooked up the digi-key switch for the HIDs (independent from the light circuit) . . . Extremely easy to do with RotoZip to trim hole. Thanks for the great info ! :drinks:

Man, I love this place !

 
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EXACTLY what I'm looking for. Yours is very pro looking..
Hello,

I have ordered a set of black Soltek Fuegos, Skyway's light mount brackets, a mini rocker switch, and a set of FZ1 mirrors for my 2008 FJR. I wish to wire the aux lights separate from my headlight system. Can anyone tell me where to pick a good switched (+) in the cowl area to power my relay?

I've read of people using the windshield auto-retract plug once it is disconnected. But I am unsure exactly where it is located and the best way to tie into it once I find it. Do I need to purchase another exact type connector as the auto-retract connector to make a pigtail? Or should I just use a posi-lock? If I use the disconnected auto-retract connector, can anyone tell me which of the four wires I should tie into to obtain switched (+) power? (Is it in the male or female side of the connector, and which color wire?)

Also, for those in the know, please view my circuit drawing and give suggestions and/or comments.

circuitenlargedAnno2adj.jpg


Thank you,

George from So. Cal

 
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George, your diagram is correct -

I would suggest installing a fuse block of some sort - either a Blue Sea or a Fuzebloc - then use this fuseblock for the connections, rather than the battery. It makes it easier to troubelshoot, fuse access, etc.

As to the switching, I used an Autoswitch - Clicky with good success.

Try doing a search on "autoswitch" and see what you get.

 
George, your diagram is correct -
I would suggest installing a fuse block of some sort - either a Blue Sea or a Fuzebloc - then use this fuseblock for the connections, rather than the battery. It makes it easier to troubelshoot, fuse access, etc.
Kaitsdad,

Thank you for taking the time to review my proposed setup. This aux light project is the only electrical farkle I have planned for the bike. I know, I say that now, but later in time ....... who knows. I think that if I decide to add a second accessory I will definitely add a fuse block.

My friend Doug has a Centec AP-1 fuse block on his yellow 2000 VFR. It sure was handy when connecting his PHID trigger and his Pro-Oiler power & ground wires. I will surely check out the fuse blocks you recommended.

As for now, I still would like to find a good switched (+) to power my relay. Once I take the fairing apart I'll do some searching.

Thank you,

George

 
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