Yet Another Audiovox Question

I just finished installing the cruise control and it's not working. When I turn it on the LED on the control doesn't light up. I checked the wiring using the installation manual and everything seems to be correct.

Wiring checks on the servo:

#9 - black - ground

#3 - Red - has 12v always from brake light switch

#1 - Brown - to controller has 12v when ignition is on and controller ON button is pressed

#4 - Purple - to brake switch has 12v only when brake is pressed

#8 - Green - has 12v when set/coast switch is pressed

#6 - Yellow - has 12v when resume/accel switch is pressed

I tested at the control switch and it checks good too, but the led in the middle never comes on.

The servo LED shows:

With engine running, it flashes on and off but only when the ON switch is held down, it goes off if I don't press the switch

If the on switch is held down, the SET button, the RESUME button and the brake pedal will make the LED come on.

If the on switch is not pressed nothing will turn the led on

With the ign on and the enigne not running nothing will turn the LED on.

The cruise won't engage at all, I have good vacuum, a check valve installed properly and a decent size pvc canister.

I'm curious about the coil connection, Mine has a red wire and a gray wire and I'm connected to the grey wire. I disconnected both wires and connected to the one that didn't have 12v on it when the ign key was turned on. Is that the correct one?

I ran the engine up to 3k rpm and the cruise wouldn't engage. The LED on the servo will flash when the on switch is pressed but nothing happens when the set button or the accel button is pressed.

Any ideas? I'm not sure about what the LED on the servo is telling me and I don't know why the LED on the controller isn't on. The last one I had showed dim if the bike was running and bright when the cruise was turned on. Maybe it's defective, but I just want to make sure.

What is the blue wire connected to?

I just did another install. With a good servo and control pad ground? and power to the fused red wire?, the red wire that goes to the brake light hot side?, and the grey wire that lights the controller pad?(I hooked all 3 together), I immediately checked to see if the control pad had 2 small lights in each rocker switch with the ignition key on. They did. Next, I checked to see to the center engage light would come on if the set button was hit. It did. This was even before I had the vacuum, the blue tach lead or the purple brake wire were attached.

I would check grounds, power to those three +B wires, and make sure one of the pins didn't back out in the 4 wire connector. Good luck.

JR'SFJR said:

I just did another install. With a good servo and control pad ground? and power to the fused red wire?, the red wire that goes to the brake light hot side?, and the grey wire that lights the controller pad?(I hooked all 3 together), I immediately checked to see if the control pad had 2 small lights in each rocker switch with the ignition key on. They did. Next, I checked to see to the center engage light would come on if the set button was hit. It did. This was even before I had the vacuum, the blue tach lead or the purple brake wire were attached.
I would check grounds, power to those three +B wires, and make sure one of the pins didn't back out in the 4 wire connector. Good luck.

Click to expand...

Thanks, JR! You know it's amazing how we check everything and know it can't be anything obvious and sure enough it is. My ground for the controller wasn't making contact. I scraped the paint off under the bracket put the ground wire back on and the control lights came on and everything works as advertized. Test drive was successful. I love it when a plan comes together!

jetfixer said:

You know it's amazing how we check everything and know it can't be anything obvious and sure enough it is. My ground for the controller wasn't making contact. I scraped the paint off under the bracket put the ground wire back on and the control lights came on and everything works as advertized. Test drive was successful. I love it when a plan comes together!

Click to expand...

Where did you ground the unit? (obviously where there's paint)

Just wanna be sure I don't make the same mistake when I un-box my 3 year old AVCC and get off my *** and install it.

RadioHowie said:

Just wanna be sure I don't make the same mistake when I un-box my 3 year old AVCC and get off my *** and install it.

Click to expand...

Three years goes by fast! We should put a few bucks on who finishes their project first... you and your AVCC or me and my auxiliary fuel cell!

Joe2Lmaker said:

RadioHowie said:

Just wanna be sure I don't make the same mistake when I un-box my 3 year old AVCC and get off my *** and install it.

Click to expand...

Three years goes by fast! We should put a few bucks on who finishes their project first... you and your AVCC or me and my auxiliary fuel cell!

Click to expand...

This is scary. Did you get your AFC from "you know who"? (he who shall remain nameless)

That's who got me my AVCC. Bought it for me in Dec. 05 at an autoparts store closeout for $35 and yet I STILL haven't even pulled off the plastic wrapper!

RadioHowie said:

This is scary. Did you get your AFC from "you know who"? (he who shall remain nameless)
That's who got me my AVCC. Bought it for me in Dec. 05 at an autoparts store closeout for $35 and yet I STILL haven't even pulled off the plastic wrapper!

Click to expand...

Nope. My delays are entirely my own doing. I was inspired by Dean Tanji but after that the Adult ADHD kicked in. kaitsdad tried to help, but then Riding Season '08 rolled around... Now I'm scrambling to get it done before Riding Season '09 officially arrives because I'm gonna need that sucka for CFO!

It always amazes me why people ground gizmo's to the chassis instead of a single ground point off the negative terminal of the battery.

It's just not good wiring practice.

I suppose I should have ran the ground to the battery, it's not too far from the controller. I'm just glad it's working and thankful for the help. I think I'm going to like this forum.

Ok new question to add to this thread...does anyone have a part # for a screw or bolt to use on the throttle cable? And once the hardware is there how does the beaded chain hook up to it? I have all the wires ran and tucked away and am striking out at every store I go to looking for a flat flange 4 mm bolt/crew :blink: Good news is though this was much simpler than I thought before I started the true test will come when all the snow and ice melt and I actually run an ops check on it...I heard it will not work while on the center stand.

FBKSFJR said:

Ok new question to add to this thread...does anyone have a part # for a screw or bolt to use on the throttle cable? And once the hardware is there how does the beaded chain hook up to it? I have all the wires ran and tucked away and am striking out at every store I go to looking for a flat flange 4 mm bolt/crew :blink: Good news is though this was much simpler than I thought before I started the true test will come when all the snow and ice melt and I actually run an ops check on it...I heard it will not work while on the center stand.

Click to expand...

I drilled the throttle tab with a 12" long or so 1/8" diameter high speed drill bit purchased at home depot

First, I used my spring loaded center punch to dimple the throttle tab to prevent the drill bit from walking

I used (all stainless from home depot/lowes) a 6-32 machine bolt (rounded head with slot) 1/2" or 5/8" long with a nylok nut - nothing else

There's a tab with a hole/slot on the end of the chain to attach with the bolt to the drilled throttle tab

Good thread with links to other helpful threads

hope this helps,

Mike in Nawlins'

FBKSFJR said:

Ok new question to add to this thread...does anyone have a part # for a screw or bolt to use on the throttle cable? And once the hardware is there how does the beaded chain hook up to it? I have all the wires ran and tucked away and am striking out at every store I go to looking for a flat flange 4 mm bolt/crew :blink: Good news is though this was much simpler than I thought before I started the true test will come when all the snow and ice melt and I actually run an ops check on it...I heard it will not work while on the center stand.

Click to expand...

The 4 mm bolt is in the bag of hardward. Go 3 pages in on the installation manual. On the parts list pictures, #34 is the 4mm bolt and nut. That bolt holds #25 eyelet in the hole drilled by you in the throttle linkage. #20 bead chain runs from that eyelet to the end of the cruise cable with #24 coupling. The cable is held in place on the fjr throttle cable with #18 parallel throttle cable clamps.

Do a search on audiovox cruise install and there are good pictures showing the install with the injectors removed, covering the injector holes with tape, so metal chips don't go in while drilling.

Good luck JR

"there are good pictures showing the install with the injectors removed"

With a long drill bit, it's a piece of cake even with the rail in place.

Zorlac said:

With a long drill bit, it's a piece of cake even with the rack in place.

Click to expand...

Patriot brought a long bit with his assortment of hardware for the install at my house. Made it a snap.

I hate pulling the fuel rail on somebody else's bike. Those bolts are so tight, and I just know I'll strip at least one of the heads and not have any spares on hand. The fuel rail is not that hard to take off other than being really careful with those bolts.