Bleeding your brakes on a Gen-II

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bramfrank

BramFrank
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I originally posted this on the COG web site back in 2004. It remains relevant and someone PMed me to ask how to do this, so I've edited it to reflect the reality of the Gen-II FJR and reposted it here.

 

Hope this helps:

 

The reservoir covers say to use DOT4 brake fluid. Use DOT4. If anyone says to use DOT5 wish them well, but ignore them.

 

Brake fluid is seriously hygroscopic - that means it absorbs water - so once you've opened a bottle of fluid, use what you need and discard any leftovers. Use only newly opened containers of brake fluid - I suppose that means that buying a few smaller bottles may be more cost-effective than buying the large economy size from the big box store.

 

When you open the reservoir cover you may notice that there are what appear to be jellylike 'floaties'. if you have any get hold of a syringe and suck them out before you begin to flush the lines.

 

PARTS:

 

  • Fresh DOT4 Brake Fluid
  • Speedbleeders for the front brakes - SB8125L (x3)
  • Speedbleeder for the rear brake - SB7100
  • Speedbleeder for the clutch clutch - SB8125L
  • Speedbleeder hose & bag set (optional - you can use a hose and a glass jar if you wish)
  • Clean, lint-free rags
  • Large plastic bag

Note: the front bleeder on the right caliper is the one linked to rear brake pedal.

Bleed in the following order:

For the front brakes: right, then left

For the rear brakes: rear, then front

Ideally, you should get the ABS kit (or fabricate one) and flush the actuator as well, but what the heck . . . I've never bothered.

PROCEDURE:

  1. Have a plastic hose, a glass jar (or preferably Speedbleeder's hose & bag system), some clean lint-free rags and a couple of large plastic bags on hand.
  2. Set the bike on it's center stand and set the bars so that the reservoir is level before opening anything up.
  3. Because the fluid is corrosive, put the plastic bag so that it covers the gas tank to catch any leakage when doing the clutch and brake systems in case you get sloppy.
  4. Open the appropriate reservoir cover, carefully remove the covers and seals.
  5. CLEAN THE SEAL AND COVERS WITH A CLEAN, DRY LINT-FREE RAG and set them aside.
  6. Loosen the bleeder in question - fluid will leak, but not stream. If you are installing the Speedbleeder just unscrew and remove the old bleeder and then screw in one of the new ones. Clean up any seepage with the rag.
  7. Snug the Speedbleeder down using an 8 mm box end wrench..
  8. Push a hose on the bleeder (if you got the bag kit -and I find it helps keep the mess to zero - connect it to the bag). If you didn't get the bag, then stick the free end of the hose into the glass jar.
  9. Pump the control fully SLOWLY, then release SLOWLY. If the bleeder is snugged properly, fluid should flow easily through the hose without leaking from the threads - if it leaks, tighten the bleeder up a smidgen. If it does nothing, loosen it a smidgen. Then try it again.
  10. With each pump check the fluid level in the reservoir and add DOT4 fluid as needed to keep the reservoir from going dry - you don't want to pump air into the line.
  11. Repeat steps #9 & #10 until only clear, pale fluid is running through the drain hose.
  12. Tighten the bleeder 1/4 turn - press the control to ensure that it is closed tightly and doesn't leak at all. If not, tighten it another 1/8 turn. Do not over-tighten
  13. Clean up any spills or messes.
  14. Take THE ORIGINAL bleeder cap and put that one on the new bleeder - it has a retaining ring - the one that Speedbleeder provided does not.
  15. If you are bleeding the brakes and this was the first caliper of the pair do the other caliper, starting with step #6.
  16. Ensure that you have enough (BUT NOT TOO MUCH) DOT4 fluid in the reservoir. There are indicating lines - use the lower one by the viewing window as your guide - it is full when the fluid is level with the horizontal casting line inside the front reservoirs - there are indicator marks on the rear reservoir. The reservoir should be level when measuring.
  17. Install the cleaned seal, then the nylon cover and then the aluminum one. Install and tighten the screws. Clean up any seepage around the edges of the actuator assembly.
  18. If you have another subsystem to bleed, move on by going back to step #4.
  19. Dispose of the old fluid AND ANY LEFTOVER FLUID in accordance with local bylaws.

 
Note: the front bleeder on the right caliper is the one linked to rear brake pedal.
FYI, I believe that the rear bleeder on the right caliper is the one that is liked to the rear brake.

 
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Thanks! I will be doing this and a TBS when I get back from Scotland to complete my maintenance before the summer miles start racking up.

 
Note: the front bleeder on the right caliper is the one linked to rear brake pedal.
FYI, I believe that the rear bleeder on the right caliper is the one that is liked to the rear brake.

You are correct. Rear bleeder on the right side is the one that is linked to the rear brake.

Actual order of bleeding is actually supposed to be front left, followed by front right.(remember that front right has two bleeders) So, bleed the one that is further forward as that is the one for the front brakes. One that if further back is for the rear. When you are done with the front. Start with right front bleeder that is on the back of the caliper first, followed by the bleeder that is on the rear cylinder.

Please make sure that your bleeders are tight when you are done and do a slow test ride with a slow application of the brakes and check that nothing is bleeding. DO NOT go and do emergency stops right after :)

 
In which order should the bleeding be done?

Front Right Brake

Front Left Brake

Rear Brake

Front Rear Brake

or

Front Left Brake

Front Right Brake

Front Rear Brake

Rear Brake

 
First of all, mea culpa - however I am not able to edit posts so the derfinitive correction is this one..

 

I did indeed have the front and rear bleeders on the right side caliper mixed up - the forward one is operated by the brake lever on the handlebars. The rear one is operated by the foor pedal.

Now, according to the manual . . . . .

1st step: Front bake calipers

2nd step: Right front caliper (unified braking system)

3rd step: Rear brake caliper

 

Now, they don't specify whether the left or right front should be done first, but logic dictates that the shortest hose gets bled first and the longer one second . . . the one to the right is somewhat shorter than the one to the left caliper.

 
Now, they don't specify whether the left or right front should be done first, but logic dictates that the shortest hose gets bled first and the longer one second . . . the one to the right is somewhat shorter than the one to the left caliper.
No, I'd say it's the opposite...the longer run goes first (hence why the manual says to do the unified brake up front first for the rear reservoir). That's the logic on cars anyway...start with the corner furthest away from the master cylinder.

In other words, on the FJR:

Front left

Front right

Unified brake up front (on the right caliper)

Rear

 
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Now, they don't specify whether the left or right front should be done first, but logic dictates that the shortest hose gets bled first and the longer one second . . . the one to the right is somewhat shorter than the one to the left caliper.
No, I'd say it's the opposite...the longer run goes first (hence why the manual says to do the unified brake up front first for the rear reservoir). That's the logic on cars anyway...start with the corner furthest away from the master cylinder.

In other words, on the FJR:

Front left

Front right

Unified brake up front (on the right caliper)

Rear
phroenis, I watched a professional do it yesterday, and you are correct.

 
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Bram

Is there a reason that you list the sb7100 for the rear, but the speed bleeders website list the sb7100?

Did you try the sb7100s and find that it was too short? Thanks in advance.

 
You need an air compressor but this is my favorite bleeding tool: https://t.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

The advantage over speed bleeder one-way valves and miti-vac hand pump is that fluid doesn't stop moving one you start. I find if a bubble is present it will return to highest point between pumps. Can pump brake while the above is sucking for faster flush.

 
You need an air compressor but this is my favorite bleeding tool: https://t.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
The advantage over speed bleeder one-way valves and miti-vac hand pump is that fluid doesn't stop moving one you start. I find if a bubble is present it will return to highest point between pumps. Can pump brake while the above is sucking for faster flush.
So this sits on the master(s) and pushes the fluid through? Sounds scary cuz if it's not sealed up correctly, brake fluid could spew all over the place? Fried of mine had one like that for automotive use, but never could muster up the courage to try in on the bike.

 
Speed bleeders are super fast, and super easy. No vacuum to worry about, no spillage to worry about, just go easy and push fluid out. I use a syringe to empty the reservoir first. Then I fill with new fluid and start the exchange. No gunk or dirty fluid, except what was in the lines gets pushed through, and a reservoir or two later, and I'm ready to move on.

Easy!

 
You need an air compressor but this is my favorite bleeding tool: https://t.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
The advantage over speed bleeder one-way valves and miti-vac hand pump is that fluid doesn't stop moving one you start. I find if a bubble is present it will return to highest point between pumps. Can pump brake while the above is sucking for faster flush.
So this sits on the master(s) and pushes the fluid through? Sounds scary cuz if it's not sealed up correctly, brake fluid could spew all over the place? Fried of mine had one like that for automotive use, but never could muster up the courage to try in on the bike.
No, it is vacuum operated. You connect it to a compressor to generate vacuum through a venturi effect.

I adapted mine to work with a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight and use it for bike cars etc. The compressor/venturi combination may be a bit slow in sucking fluid sometimes, specially with long car brake plumbing.

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html

 
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